Rums are Back on Whiskyfun


June 30, 2024

Rums are back on Whiskyfun

We're falling far behind, but what can we do? Let's start with our traditional little aperitif, while avoiding, as much as possible, C12H22O11. That's sucrose, white sugar, also known as β-D-fructofuranosyl-(2↔1)-α-D-glucopyranoside according to the esteemed French Chemical Society. Or beta-D-Fructofuranosyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside. It's all rather cute, isn't it?

Sada Williams (The Barbados Olympic Association)

Rhum Boel Guilly (40%, Rhum Traditionnel des Îles Françaises d’Outre-Mer, +/-1990)

The brand still exists, you’ll find it at Carrefour for around €7 a 50cl bottle. That’s right, seven euros. This wouldn’t be possible with whisky, but with rum, you might evn be in for a pleasant surprise. Colour: full gold. Nose: much better than many more expensive rums, quite akin to the traditional non-agricole rums from Le Galion in Martinique. Crème brûlée, liquorice, a touch of tar and petrol, brown sugar, very ripe pineapple, and cane juice… But let’s not kid ourselves, the devil still lurks on the palate. Mouth: well, it’s not too bad, just a tad light and overly caramelised. Cane juice and molasses persist, along with cooked tropical fruits (pineapple)... It would certainly suit light cocktails or cooking. Finish: not much to speak of, as anticipated, save for some notes of liquorice allsorts. Comments: I’m tempted to buy half a pallet and redistill the lot, just for a laugh at the year’s end. It rather does the job.
SGP: 330 - 75 points.

Whistler ‘Master Solera’ (46%, OB, South Africa, +/-2022)

A rum distilled from molasses in a pot still, complemented by a column still, and aged through a solera system comprising seven different casks, including white wine, red wine, whisky, cognac, and port... The 46% ABV is rather reassuring. Colour: light gold. Nose: in spirit, it’s not too far from Boel Guilly, just a bit more potent with a touch more citrus and spice. The wines aren’t very discernible, thankfully. Hints of stewed rhubarb. Mouth: similar sentiments, it’s pleasant, quite fresh, perhaps not terribly precise but with so many different casks, that’s not unexpected. A bit of lemon, cinnamon, liquorice, dried meat, but it fades rather quickly. Finish: not very long but the citrus and brown sugar do come through. Comments: pleasant enough, but I don’t think it’s quite up to the level of South Africa’s Mhoba.
SGP:530 - 77 points.

Speaking of which…

Mhoba ‘Umbila’ (59.7%, OB, South Africa, LMDW New Vibrations Collection, bourbon, cask #WR5, 251 bottles, 2023)

This is single estate rum. We’ve already tasted some excellent Mhobas. Umbila means maize in the local language, which likely refers to the bourbon cask, an ex-Woodford Reserve, rather than the distillate itself. Colour: gold. Nose: immediately petrol-like, with high esters, Brazilian wood (amburana, isn’t it?) and a Finnish sauna vibe, or rather the essential oils you might use there. Also lemon, tiny touches of rubber, and wafts of eucalyptus to clear your sinuses, should that be necessary. With water: pickles and tiny lemons in vinegar and salt. Don’t forget the petrol station and oils. Mouth (neat): quite heavy, quite Jamaican, salty, petrol-like, acetic, with carbon, brine, capers, and salmiak (Finnish, perhaps?). With water: and now it gives a nod to not-too-heavy Caroni. Lime, pickles, varnish, acetone, etc. Finish: long, curiously refreshing. A rather sweet-salty aftertaste, like prickly pickle or a dry martini with an olive. Comments: I really like this version of Mhoba.
SGP:463 – 88 points.

While we’re in the southern hemisphere…

Beenleigh 15 yo 2007/2023 (65.2%, Silver Seal, Australia, cask #173, 259 bottles)

Remember, Beenleigh is a very old brand and distillery. This will be the oldest Beenleigh we’ve ever tasted. And at this alcohol strength, we’ll be careful… Colour: full gold. Nose: very pretty, slightly agricole in style, with tropical flowers (ylang-ylang) and green banana, but let’s not take any risks. With water: it leans more towards mocha, sugar cane, nougat, and roasted pistachios... Mouth (neat): a kind of blend of agricole and English molasses rum, but once again, at this strength, we won’t delve too deeply into it before adding… With water: perfect. Very fruity liquorice, blackberry jam, fudge, sesame oil, sugar cane, and orange liqueur… All in all, it’s a much gentler and kinder rum than it initially seemed. Finish: medium length, liquorice, touches of wood varnish, and truly an agricole side. Comments: the Mhoba had much more punch, but I really like this deceptively aggressive side of Beenleigh. A gentle monster, rather superb.
SGP:641 - 88 points.

Foursquare 16 yo 2006/2023 ‘Flag Series’ (60.3%, LMDW, Barbados, cask #FS06FV16)

It doesn’t say Foursquare, but with a cask number starting with ‘FS’, it’s not hard to guess what it is. We always dream of finding an FS pure pot still, don’t we... Colour: dark gold. Nose: why do all these rum makers target our noses so much? I understand water is becoming a precious commodity on this planet, but still... That said, we get flowers, zucchini blossoms, acacia, beeswax, a bit of paraffin, and a green plant soil note... But quickly, with water: rounder, more on orange cake, fresh madeleines, mandarins (big time) ... Mouth (neat): it’s still very good, even at 60% ABV. We find a floral maceration note with touches of varnish and glue, followed by small citrus fruits, kaffir lime, yuzu, kumquats, bergamots, limes, calamansi, Buddha’s hand (S., we’re good, we know them). With water: extremely citrusy, with just a bit of cane syrup and rock sugar to round it out. Finish: quite long, zesty, but also round and pastry-like, with that self-blend pot still + column still character really coming through. Comments: this flag is really very pretty. And since the Olympics are approaching, let’s cheer on the wonderful Barbadian sprinter Sada Williams. May she stay away from Foursquare until then!
SGP:651 - 90 points.

We're not afraid of anything anymore...

TDL 2005/2023 (62.5%, Swell de Spirits, for Salon du Rhum de Spa, Trinidad, #2 On Tour)

You know, TDL, Trinidad Distillers Limited, the makers of Angostura. This is truly the rum that has surprised us the most in the past year or two. Didn’t I already say that last time? Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s not the explosion of exotic fruits, the Caribbean Bushmills we were expecting. Instead, there are curious smoky notes, soot, and UHU glue... To be honest, you feel there could be tonnes of mangoes, but the alcohol seems to block it all. Let’s see, with water: yes, here we go, the ‘not too ripe’ mangoes and blood oranges are here, but there’s still a faint hint of overripe banana, glue, and metal polish. Mouth (neat): this time, the exotic fruits are in full splendour, but there’s also a spicy, peppery note, and again a bit of that chemical (glue) aspect. Let’s see… With water: still that unusual balance. Orange and mango peels, melon rind, varnish, green beans (yes), soot, and even, brace yourselves, saline peat. Was it an ex-Scotch malt cask? Finish: long, sharp, very saline but also with plenty of ripe fruits. Mango jam doughnuts. Fruit peels in the aftertaste. Comments: a bit cross-genre, but on reflection, we love that too, even if it’s not a clear ultra-fruity profile this time.
SGP:652 - 89 points.

Listen, we're going to do something crazy, just for the cause...

Angostura ‘1919’ (40%, OB, Trinidad, +/-2023)

We last tasted this in 2018, and it was a bit weak (WF 78), but just to put the TDL into perspective, for our common cause... Apparently, they’ve tweaked the recipe a bit. Generally, that means more heavily charred American oak, and thus more vanilla. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite pleasant, but very light. Indeed, there’s vanilla, sliced apples, bananas, and toast. Mouth: really not too bad, a bit herbal while being sweet and vanilla-forward, but it really lacks power. However, there are nice touches of fresh fruits, bananas, guavas, a bit of honey… Finish: a bit short, but on herbal teas, liquorice… Comments: nothing like its cousin the TDL, let’s be clear, but it’s quite decent. They should try a version at 45 or 50 or 55%.
SGP:530 - 79 points.

We'll finish with two old Jamaicans. We'll have more rums next Sunday, even though we have plenty of mezcals to taste. And a large selection of old genevers, promised for at least two years. I'm ashamed... So, we had agreed on two old Jamaicans, two 40-year-olds, is that alright with you?

Long Pond 40 yo 1983/2024 (51.6%, Distilia & Robert Bauer, The Sins, Avarice, Jamaica, cask #1134, 203 bottles)

... We eagerly anticipate ‘lust’ in this series (ha) ... Colour: gold. Nose: I was saying the other day, with regard to Brora and Port Ellen, that these styles of spirits, when housed in moderate and intelligent casks, seem just indestructible, eternal, becoming just a tad more complex year after year, without ever losing their DNA or nearing their end. A bit like a horizon that recedes as you advance. Black olives, a couple of drops of diesel oil, anchovies, varnish, turpentine, fir wood ashes, a hint of new plastic, newly unboxed electronic gadgets (think a new iPhone), lemon... With water: magnificent tar, tarmac, new tyres, and a slight Port Ellen touch. But of course. Mouth (neat): simply eternal. Lemon juice, liquorice, tar, varnish, olives, cane syrup. With water: superb precision. Lemon, ashes, tar, olive oil. Finish: perhaps not immensely long but with a coastal, hyper-salty side that reminds one of oysters and whelks. And of course, brined olives. Comments: the very moderate price for a Jamaican of this age would indeed suit a somewhat frugal enthusiast. Well played. The juice is simply magnificent. I suggest adding water only with great moderation.
SGP:563 - 92 points.

Clarendon 40 yo 1984/2024 ‘MMW’ (57.2%, Planteray, Jamaica, 317 bottles)

Planteray is the new name for Plantation, while the ‘MMW’ mark from Monymusk/Clarendon indicates an ester content between 200 and 300 grams per HLPA. Though not the highest, similar to ppm phenols in whiskies, I’ve never found a linear correlation between these figures and the final result in the glass, especially in a forty-year-old spirit. It seems to saturate beyond a certain level, and 200/300 is already quite high in my opinion. I’ve tasted some from 1984 in the past, some of which turned bitter, others not, whereas Monymusk 1977 and 1979 from Moon Import held up well. However, they were bottled at ages of 10 and 20 years. In any case, the Clarendon 1984/2020 ‘Plantation Extreme’ was excellent (WF 90), but it was bottled at… 74.8%. Colour: reddish mahogany. Nose: we’re in convergence with old armagnacs or sherried malt whiskies, with plenty of cooked peaches, wormwood, dark earth, a basaltic touch, prunes, dried apricots, morels, black cherries, liquorice, pine needles, old herbal liqueurs (Arquebuse, Bénédictine), and bear’s garlic. Over the years, the aromas have multiplied fractally. With water: morels and black garlic, rich broth, and prunes. Are we sure this isn’t old Ténarèze? (I jest). Mouth (neat): frankly, it’s reminiscent of very old Glenlivet or Macallan, with marked tannicity (samovar, very black tea, pipe tobacco, coffee grounds) and many resinous notes, pine, bud liqueur, massive menthol, raw liquorice. We’re probably at a crossroads here; water could either make it pop (extreme black tea) or relax it. Let’s see… With water: it’s a win. Mint tea, soft varnish, coffee and dark chocolate, thyme liqueur, cigar, cedarwood, terpenes, menthol… It flirts with the edge at times but always finds a lighter note to bring it back on track. Finish: long, really on black tea and Turkish mint tea, and lots of liquorice, salted or not. Bitter chocolate and black pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a slightly perilous endeavour for the taster, who must stay attentive throughout the sampling of this very old and very, very dry rum. It’s somewhat reminiscent of that famous Italian cigar, the Toscano dear to Clint Eastwood.
SGP:373 - 90 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far