Rums of all styles and from all origins


March 17, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Rums of all styles and from all origins
(For Haiti)

Clairin

Transporting sugarcanes in Haiti to make clairin (Globe >Reporters)

After quite a few Sundays doing cognacs and armagnacs, let's do rum at random again. Starting, as usual you might say, with some apéritif…And then try to find some Haitian clairin.

Dictador 18 yo 2004/2022 'Pàrrafo I Borbon' (46%, OB, Colombia, cask # ExB-5269, 315 bottles)

Dictador 18 yo 2004/2022 'Pàrrafo I Borbon' (46%, OB, Colombia, cask # ExB-5269, 315 bottles)
Let's be honest, we've been procrastinating a little bit with this one… It's been aged in ex-bourbon. Some Dictadors have been pretty good in my book, especially Cadenhead's, but that's been much less the case with most ultra-sweet OBs. And frankly, at the moment, we are rather tired of dictators, are we not. Colour: dark amber. Nose: this is curaçao flavoured with vanillin and coffee liqueur. Whiffs of sage and perhaps marjoram coming out from the background. Other than that, it's very, very, extremely, totally about 'coffee – orange'. Mouth: sameish, I would say. Very sweet but perhaps a little less cloying than expected, with more coffee liqueur, more triple-sec, and a curious salty touch that feels a bit out of place here. Finish: medium, on the same notes plus some rather heavy molasses. Comments: rather in the style of Zacapa and compadres. I'm not totally against it.
SGP:730 - 72 points.

Thailand 5 yo (40%, Cane Island, +/-2022)

Thailand 5 yo (40%, Cane Island, +/-2022)
From a secret distillery in the Pathum Thani province of Thailand, probably ThaiBev's Sura Bangyikhan Distillery, where they are making the rather challenging, err, Mekhong whisky (WF 25). But you never know… Colour: gold. Nose: syrup, icing sugar, vanilla extracts, coconut extracts, a few herbal teas, a little pineapple syrup… Well, TBH, it's not too ugly, it's even kind of nice(ish) if you think Bumbu or Don Papa. Among the blind, the one-eyed is king. Mouth: very sweet, you can't quite swallow it at room temperature, it needs a lot of ice or just a good fridge that goes to eleven. Other than that, I find it okayish if really sugary… Finish: short, a tad bitter this time (green tea). Comments: it's probably meant for Thai cocktails. Isn't that what you call Mai Tais? (tells you how much I know about cocktails).
SGP:720 - 60 points.

Clément 'V.S.O.P' (40%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2022)

I don't think rum has to adhere to the categories defined for cognac in terms of VS, VSOP, XO, XXO, etc. but I'm not too sure. We should ask rum experts. Colour: gold. Nose: it's quite superior. Through a simple contrast effect, you're catapulted into an aromatic Olympus, with honeysuckle, very ripe bananas, ylang-ylang, and hibiscus, a flurry of tangerines, a very mild curry, oranges... A rather magnificent nose, with the effect of age but without any overt wood notes per se. Mouth: yes, it's excellent even if it's less 'obvious' on the palate, with cedarwood, sandalwood, cinnamon, banana, and even a very light smokiness. These little Cléments are very easy to find in France, but that does not detract from their quality. Finish: it loses a bit of freshness, becomes more earthy and spicier, but there's also fresh cane that stands out more. Hints of lavender in the aftertaste. Comments: very good for an expression that is, after all, quite common.
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Worthy Park '109' (54.5%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2023)

Worthy Park '109' (54.5%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2023)
This is the first time I've come across this expression; I must make a point of visiting a rum festival one day (I actually did once, a long time ago). They say it all on the label, 'Jamaican owned', single estate distilled to bottled, 100% copper pot sill, zero colouri… hold on, no they don't say that. Colour: dark red amber. Huh… Nose: still awesome, perhaps smokier here, but we do have the esters, the olives, the compost notes, the brighter maritime ones, this cedarwood, this little tar… With water: herbs, paraffin, shoe polish, Portuguese anchovies in brine… Mouth (neat): a bit sweet, curiously floral (orange blossom water, violet liqueur), you'd almost believe it is some cream de Jamaican rum on the palate. Or old boosted 'navy' rum. With water: the Portuguese anchovies are saving it, together with some pastis perhaps. Less sweetish when reduced to, say 45% ABV (very roughly). Finish: rather long, a little salty-sweet. Comments: very good drop, it's just pretty different. Love the brighter WPs!
SGP:652 - 82 points.

Jamaican Rum 6 yo (54%, SecretCask, bourbon, +/-2023)

Shh... Well, obviously they couldn't resist the urge to mention the distillery's founding year somewhere, but don't count on me to spill the beans, alright. Colour: light gold. Nose: immediate, obvious, uncontrollable, dominant. Crushed bananas, shoe polish, brake dust, olives, a touch of vinegar, sand and cement, pineapples starting to, well, to rot… With water: a little varnish, the expected acetone, glue, even ammonia… How great is this? Mouth (neat): natural, untampered-with Ardbeg. I mean, that kind of Ardbeg from Jamaica. Amazing petroly, olive-y saltiness. With water: same. Perfect balance, it's like a jazz trio that's been playing together for forty years. Finish: long, salty. More olives, some rubber, polishes, feeling of petrol, etc. Comments: that's 1753. Before Glenturret, before Bowmore and even before Madonna.
SGP:653 - 91 points.

Utopia 'TDL 2008 & Belize 2007' (59%, Vagabond Spirits, ex-bourbon, +/-2023)

Utopia 'TDL 2008 & Belize 2007' (59%, Vagabond Spirits, ex-bourbon, +/-2023)
Some kind of double-single if you will, reminding me of John Glaser's efforts or of Douglas Laing's 'double barrel' malt whiskies. In theory, the Trinidadian should have the upper hand. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it's very powerful and rather dominated by the scent of slightly burnt green tea cake, unusual aromas for 'single' rums. It appears that the TDL might have been a heavier version from the distillery, possibly with a high ester count. It needs water... With water: it becomes balanced, with roasted peanuts but also wafts of new plastic, new trainers (at least EU size 45). Mouth (neat): a lot of glue and varnish, salt, finger lime, pine needles and other rather intense flavours. Once again, water seems essential. With water: there, we land, but it remains salty and marked by an oily aspect. It wasn't one of those TDLs that are heavy on exotic fruits. Finish: long, with a return of green tea, hints of varnish, the skins of very ripe bananas and a bit of rubber in the aftertaste. Comments: a real battle in your glass. I get the feeling that the Trinidad must have been quite a beast. Truth be told, it's quite fascinating to follow, this type of blending must be very fun to do. Just between us, I think the bottler must have had almost as much fun as this taster.
SGP:363 - 86 points.

Cuba 31 yo 1992/2024 (50.7%, Wu Dram Clan, ex-bourbon, 231 bottles)

Cuba 31 yo 1992/2024 (50.7%, Wu Dram Clan, ex-bourbon, 231 bottles)
Aged 20 years in Cuba and 11 years in Europe. We know that such batches can be splendid, don't we? We don't know what it is exactly, but in terms of style, one can't help but be reminded of Santiago de Cuba. Incidentally, the new Santiago 8 years is starting to flood our French supermarkets, so we'll taste it soon (I just have to make the ultimate effort to go to a supermarket). Colour: dark amber red. Something like that. Nose: yes, of course. A lot of flint at the start, then cedarwood, charcoal, followed by a deluge of banana jam. Sometimes there's an impression of smelling charcoal. With water: gunpowder, chocolate and mint (thin mints), cinchona, Campari... In short, it's quite talkative. Mouth (neat): a real sin. All the best aspects of fermented coconut milk, grilled meat, grilled corn, charcoal again, with a bit of overly-brewed black tea, Iberian ham, charcoal (I insist), heavy and thick molasses... With water: it's tamed, but then you get notes of fish, canned sardine, all still with molasses. Finish: long and much more on oranges, marmalade, Seville oranges, chocolate... Comments: if you think all Cuban rums are light and harmless, try this one and let's talk again. I can't quite see what a Cuban brand could have done with this cask, other than drown it in a very, very large batch. So a slightly mad Cuban... We love it.
SGP:462 - 89 points.

Diamond 12 yo 'Savalle Still ICBU' (53.9%, The Boutique-y Rum Company for LMDW, New Vibrations, 2023)

ICBU, that's the marque here. It's Uitvlugt's four-column Savalle still that's been used at Diamond, but it seems that there are other marques for this still's output. Why make it simple. Colour: white wine. Nose: a little paint thinner at first, some acetone, then white chocolate, vanilla and coconut. A very light style it seems, it screams for water. With water: mown lawn, coconut, peanut oil. It's truly a light Uitvlugt. Mouth (neat): between two worlds, varnish on the one side, vanilla and oranges on the other side. Probably one of the lightest Uitvlugts I've tried, indeed. With water: a little more texture. Say one drop of olive oil. Finish: rather short, grassy. A little white sugar in the aftertaste. Comments: it's rather Uitvlugt Ultralight, you'd have almost believed it was some Bacardi C/S of some sort. Still pretty good – and enlightening.
SGP:531 - 78 points.

Epris 2011/2023 (53.1%, L'Esprit, Brazil, cask #BB 101, 234 bottles)

Epris 2011/2023 (53.1%, L'Esprit, Brazil, cask #BB 101, 234 bottles)
We don't often taste rums from Brazil; you'll tell me we taste even fewer cachaças. L'Esprit is an excellent French bottler, just less noisy than others, shall we say. Ha, love them anyway. Colour: gold. Nose: a very astonishing nose that starts with ammonia and wood glue, freshly cut plywood, then moves to small berries, holly, rowan, service tree, even mistletoe (not very fragrant but there), sour cherry... In reality, it then becomes deeper, focusing on orange wine, yeast, asparagus... This little Brazilian is very surprising. With water: little change. Mouth (neat): completely different, even difficult, bitter, chemical in a way, with more wood glue, even on the palate. Cider apples and jujubes start to balance all this out, but it will need water. With water: it remains very unusual but once again, the spirits of small berries come into play. Frankly, it's like holly brandy aged in coniferous casks, or something of that sort. Finish: long, with similar notes. Comments: a slightly mad Brazilian, rather austere and quite intellectual. We'd buy it, if only for its great originality. And because we adore holly spirit (ha - there must be fifteen of us on this wee planet).
SGP:261 - 85 points.

Let's conclude with a small tribute to Haiti, where terrible things are happening. I remember having dinner with some Haitian distillers a few years ago, absolutely charming people! Hats off to them, they make some of the best spirits in the world…

Clairin Vieux Sajous 5 yo 2018/2023 (57.5%, La Maison et Velier)

Aged in former casks of Bielle, Caroni, and Benriach (seemingly). It's surely excellent but one might wonder why such a pre-mix of spirits, and why not maintain the purity of the clairin by using less idiosyncratic casks. I agree, a pointless question, it could have been worse, they could have used cognac. Colour: gold. Nose: well, there you have it, diesel oil, liquorice, brand new rubber boots, and olives. Is it the clairin? The Caroni? The Bielle? Yes, we agree, it can't be the poor Benriach (poor in this context, naturally). With water: a bit more acetic, more on the solvent side. Mouth (neat): just superb, in fact. Salty liquorice, varnish, rubber, olives, and the same question. All that's missing are former Hampden casks. Or perhaps Ardbeg. With water: a bit more rounded. Maybe the Scottish malt? Finish: quite long, salty, oily but within certain limits. The aftertaste is rounder. Comments: I like the white Sajous just as much, but this is completely on point, organoleptically speaking. Philosophically, I'm not so sure, but that's me... Aside from that, poor Haiti!
SGP:563 - 88 points.

See you soon for many more rums... We have plenty.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far