Sailing the seas again


March 29, 2024

Sailing the seas again

Another whirlwind tour of the whisky world, nose to the wind and without the slightest fear. We will see that there are things, or rather there were things, quite dangerous, back when the Scots ruled the whisky world unchallenged. But things are really starting to change. As usual, we'll start with a little French one, there are so many of them! Because nowadays, everybody here is distilling 'whisky', except for the railway workers, who are far too busy being on strike at time of writing, as usual. But let's move on...

Armorik 21 yo 2002/2023 (59.9%, OB, France, oloroso, cask #3268, vente solidaire, Whisky Live Paris 2023, 1 2-l demijohn)

The oldest French whisky ever bottled, sold in October last year for the GoodPlanet Foundation charity. Here we have a tasting purely for glory, since there was only one demijohn available. Colour: very dark amber. Nose: salted butter caramel and pipe tobacco take the lead at first, then we find chocolate and a 'traditional old armagnac' side with some mushrooms. It's really powerful, water will be a welcome addition. With water: it remains earthy, very dry, somewhat like a very old sweet wine that has fully metabolised its sugars. Burnt caramel and damp earth. Mouth (neat): a lot of dark chocolate, green nuts, a massive peppery hit, plenty of chili, brown tobacco (Gauloise)... In short, it's quite serious. With water: now it relaxes a bit, there are bitter oranges, cloves, bitters, very old nuts... Finish: long but still woody, bitter (not excessively so) and heavily marked by brown tobacco and very black tea. Comments: the woodiness and the ultra-dry sherry are very pronounced, but in the end, it's primarily a magnificent collector's bottle.
SGP:372 - between 85 and 87 points.

Right, brace yourselves, I had promised you something strange, hadn't I?

Mangkorn Thong (35%, OB, SangSom Co., Ltd., Thailand, blended spirit, +/-2005)

It's made from rice and molasses, so technically, it should be some kind of whisky. Actually, it is advertised as the 'No.1 Thai whiskey'. Please note that this is an older bottle, and then wish me luck. Adios, world! Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's rather some kind of very light absinth. Or pastis. Or ouzo. Or raki. I can't find anything that would remind of whisky, but we do know that in some parts of this lovely planet, the word 'whisky' is used very loosely. Mouth: yeah, light aniseed, caramel, vanilla and a little orange liqueur. Add coriander seeds and you're nearing some kind of Thai chartreuse blended with Thai pastis. It is not undrinkable. Let's see if it gets cloudy when water's added… With water: it does not, at all! Finish: short, with aniseed and vanilla. Comments: I don't think it's totally lethal, after all. It probably belongs on a lot of crushed ice, with a slice of lime, in Phuket or Pattaya. It could be much worse, I'll categorize it with the whiskies, but I don't think we can truly call this a 'whisky'.
SGP:650 - 35 points.

Even stranger, is that possible?

Tovuz 13 yo 'Caucasus Original Whisky' (40%, OB, Azerbaijan, +/-2015)

The brand was founded in 1989 and is made by Naigs Co Tovuz-Baltiya ltd. To be honest, it's hard to know what to say about the country, let's just spare a thought for one of the most wonderful jazz pianists and singers, the delightful Azeri princess Aziza Mustapha Zadeh. Or for the great singer Alim Qasimov (listen to 'A Trace of Grace' with Michel Godard, it's on YouTube.) By the way, we had already tasted a Tovuz 10 years a few years back. So-so (WF 50), but maybe is this 13-year-old vastly superior? Colour: tawny amber. Nose: packed with caramel and molasses, with a few notes of very ripe plums, but nothing that really suggests anything to do with barley, corn, wheat, millet, rye, rice... (okay, we get it, S.) Mouth: not bad, herbaceous, curiously fresh (wormwood, verbena, mint) but really not 'whisky' as you and I understand it. Liquorice, caramel, but not too sweet. Alright, we've seen worse (starting just about five minutes ago). Finish: not very long but really on caramel and woody flavoured raki. We'll survive. Comments: frankly, it's not too bad at all, pretty much average for spirits worldwide (so, WF 50 since remember we use a real 100 points scale). Well, we're going to listen to some Aziza Mustapha Zadeh to cheer ourselves up. Let me recommend one of her latest albums, 'Generations'. De nada.
SGP:660 - 50 points.

To Switzerland…

Johnett 2013/2023 (55.5%, OB, Etter Soehne AG, Switzerland, ex-merlot, cask #49, 417 bottles)

I believe the house Etter do make some excellent osbtlers too (eaux-de-vie). They are located in Zug, where the water is pure and the taxes very low (why am I mentioning this?) Now, let me issue a merlot alert! Colour: gold. No pink, no red. Nose: grenadine should be a no-no, but in this case, when there's also cake, praline, peonies, stewed cherries and a little orange blossom, it's rather not. Let's say we're fine this far. With water: touches of sweet chilli. Mouth (neat): akin to the red-wine-and-spice-boosted whiskies many are making in the world these days (especially in Australia, Israel, India, Taiwan, or in England). The idea remains frightening, but let's not deny that they now make them much better than they used to. Burnt raspberry muffins, cherry clafoutis, Schweppes Orange, caraway and clove, bitters, Campari… Finish: long, spicier yet, pretty boisterous. Comments: rather a new category, we shall call it 'Dr Swan's', if you don't mind.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Did we not mention Australia? And red wine?

Starward 5 yo 2017/2023 (55.8%, OB for LMDW, Australia, Australian tawny finish, cask #14914, 258 bottles)

Three years in Australian red wine, then two years in Australian tawny Port-like wine, what could go wrong? I hear you say 'just ev'rything', but not so sure, let's see… Colour: copper. Ouch. Nose: loads of burnt cakes and cookies, some charcoal, burnt fruits, slate… Water is necessary but that was to be expected. With water: do you believe in miracles? Dough, crushed bananas, beers, cherry wine, touch of grappa… Mouth (neat): insane 'red' sweetness and loco spiciness. Extreme extraction and avalanches of cloves, this is absolutely not for the fainthearted. With water: so much better! Still very spicy, herbal, bitter, but also fruitier, with our beloved cherries doing more than their share. Red apricots, dates, crazy guavas… More cinnamon too, which is very normal. Finish: long. Big spices, oak, oranges… Cocoa in the aftertaste. Comments: it's a little excessive, and that's an understatement, but on the other hand, can you do any better with a 5 yo juice?
SGP:661 - 85 points.

Bimber 'Peated' (59.4%, OB, England, Germany edition, PX cask, cask #458, 283 bottles, 2023)

Peat and PX, that's a tricky combination in our meagre experience. Not unlike coffee and mustard, but let's see… Colour: amber. Nose: good fun, with some fresh concrete, fermenting plums, scoria, basalt, bitter oranges, spent engine oil, black raisins… This is intriguing but it does hold pretty tight this far. With water: many stuck matches and the blackest chocolates. Mouth (neat): another miraculous one. Good, there's too much pepper, too much dried mushroom powder (porcini), too many deep-dried prunes, too many crazy smoked sausages, too much harissa, too many merguez (not joking)… But in a way it works, despite its black-metal aspect. With water: ha-ha, it got gentler. Struck matches again, also more German smoked sausage, well this is bordering curry wurst. Finish: long, rather on paprika and oranges, but the aftertaste is pretty smoky indeed. Bay leaves, then some very lovely oranges of different kinds. Comments: excellent.
SGP:564 - 86 points.

That's three extreme cask-driven malts already. We can't wait to try these when they get old enough to stand on their two legs without needing these well-made, yet sometimes very slightly stuffy heavy casks. Please a last one, from Korea…

Kimchangsoo 'Quarter Cask' (53.%, OB, South Korea, 312 bottles, 2023)

We've already tried some very dazzling Kimchangsoos. It's a tiny distillery, the only one in Korea I believe, but they really know what they're doing. Proof, this is from proper Golden Promise barley (think authentic Macallan) and a blend of ex-first fill oloroso and ex-first fill PX. Colour: bright amber. Nose: it starts with some rather subtle touches of incense and cedarwood, plus various vegetables, including parsnips and French beans. Which is a little unusual, we agree. Some damp earth, a little camphor, some kind of grease, teas… I believe a little water will do it much good. With water: no straight peat and yet there is some Ardbegness. Perhaps these burnt Pirellis? Mouth (neat): sweet Vishnu, how good is this!? It is just extremely potent, you would believe it was bottled at 73% vol. instead of 53. Huge pepper load. With water: oh so distinctive. Artichoke, charcoal, capers, bitter oranges, green peppercorns, eggplant, more parsnips… Finish: long, a tad austere, which is very pleasant. No one wants sticky, cloying, vulgar finishes. Comments: that's the thing, it's a deep spirit, which means that even if the cask was pretty active, the distillate had enough structure and stamina to counterbalance its effect. How do you say 'extremely good' in Korean?
SGP:462 - 88 points.

(Thanks, Christian)

		400 grains!
		We've just filed the note for our 400th Scottish grain whisky. Never would we have imagined reaching this milestone; twenty-five years ago, the market was offering little beyond Cameron Brig, viewed merely as a novelty, and William Grant's Black Barrel, which was met with considerable skepticism. Let's not forget the exceedingly rare grain whiskies from Ben Nevis and Lochside, also novelties, especially those offered by James MacArthur. However, since then, the chance to use the enchanting term "single", and more reasonably priced cask purchases have altered the playing field. It must be said that some grains are quite impressive, particularly most aged Invergordons and, generally, the very old grains from other distilleries, including long-gone ones such as Garnheath. But in my own view, the younger ones are better suited to cleaning windshields or featuring in very light cocktails 'on the beach'. Beware also of the few bottlers, fortunately not many, who attempt to sell single grain at single malt prices.