Some of the best French Whiskies to celebrate Bastille Day


July 15, 2024

Some of the best French Whiskies to celebrate Bastille Day

A day too late, as Bastille Day was yesterday, the 14th of July, but it was also Malternative Day on WF. Besides, at Château WF, we're not particularly nationalistic or even "patriotic," given that we believe if there's one act in our lives from which we can derive absolutely no personal merit, it's being born somewhere. We have currently more than 130 distilleries making whisky in France.

Within the French National Assembly, in 1789
the marquis de La Fayette aka Lafayette, drafted
the first Déclaration des Droits de l'Homme
(Declaration of the Rights of Man), which was
heavily inspired by the American Declaration.
(Joseph-Désiré Court — Réunion des
musées nationaux.)

Cezallier ‘Zagat Fils du Feu’ (52.1%, Le Faiseur de Malts, France, lot #TT18A, 436 bottles, 2023)

Here we are in Auvergne with a whisky distilled in a pot still heated over a naked flame, a blend of 4 malted grains: triticale, barley, rye, and spelt. Aged in refill oak casks and presented in a very lovely bottle. Colour: deep gold. Nose: an impressively thick and rich profile, with a pronounced note of rancio, dark nougat, pumpernickel, and banana cake drizzled with caramel, alongside a faint metallic and earthy hint. We then drift towards the aged agricoles Rums from Martinique and slightly old school whiskies marked by an equally old school sherry, reminiscent of Michel Couvreur's old malts. With water: intriguingly, it smells like a still in full swing. Mouth (neat): a rather rich attack, with ample dark chocolate, pepper, malt extracts, and an array of diverse breads, particularly dark ones. Roasted chestnuts and a touch of old oloroso dulce emerge. With water: much fruitier, almost gentle, but the burnt bread crust note lingers in the aftertaste. Leather. Finish: long, with a pleasing bitterness. A very light herbal liqueur note, then more orange liqueur and rancio. Comments: rich and pleasant. It remains to be seen which of the four malts stands out. Perhaps the spelt? I’m not sure, but I recently had spelt bread, and it somewhat reminds me of that.
SGP:561 - 85 points.

Artesia ‘Tourbé’ (46%, OB, Whisky des Hauts de France, France, +/-2023)

Of course, 'tourbé' means peated. We tasted two Artesia whiskies two years ago and found them quite good. The Hauts de France are in the north of France. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: very lovely lemon sprinkled over chalk and ashes. Adding to this are very expressive notes of Sauvignon blanc, as well as lime, rhubarb, and slightly underripe kiwi. The overall impression is very clean and works perfectly, I assure you. I forgot to mention, the peated barley malt comes from Scotland. Better that than North Korea, I suppose. Mouth: a mix of Caol Ila, mezcal, and gentian if you know what I mean. The body is very slightly thin, but that's absolutely not a problem. Oysters arrive a few minutes later. Finish: rather long, with lemony ashes, oysters, and a bit of white pepper. A light vanilla note comes in a bit later. Comments: it's ultra-clean.
SGP:565 - 86 points.

Wambrechies ‘Madeira’ (44.5%, OB, France, +/-2024)

Here’s another malt from northern France, aged 8 years in Madeira casks. Wambrechies/Claeyssens, who have been making genever for two centuries, were pioneers of whisky in France since the 1990s. I remember they were among the very few names that didn’t come from the big four whisky countries we used to mention on the early internet forums. Happy to see them back in our glass, the north has always been a land of grains! Colour: gold. Nose: so typically Madeira. Walnuts and mustard, plus a bit of leather, nutmeg, cigar tobacco, and a very, very slight vinegar note. Add a touch of damp earth, crushed slate, and orchard leaves, especially peach. Mouth: excellent, unique, with even more walnuts and leather, plus mustard and tobacco. A hint of fruit-flavoured liquorice (oranges) completes the profile and adds a fresh touch. A hint of fennel. Finish: medium length, similar profile, always refreshing. More oranges and grapefruit in the aftertaste. Comments: I love it, it’s perfect. The use of Madeira is done with the precision of a Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker. Really glad to see them again – I mean Wambrechies.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Hordeum 2019/2023 ‘Cerealis’ (48%, LMDW, Version Française)

Hordeum 2019/2023 ‘Cerealis’ (48%, LMDW, Version Française)
Distilled in an Armagnac-style column still from Scarlett spring barley and aged in new French oak. No time to figure out which distillery this is from, possibly from the Jura region, but I wouldn’t bet on it. Colour: gold. Nose: fresh bread, fresh sawdust, sponge cake, then a slightly overripe apple. It's very straightforward, very compact, without much sticking out. Mouth: fruitier on the palate, a bit warm, with ripe plums, vanilla, a bit of nutmeg and cinnamon, then apple tarte. A touch of cane sugar. Finish: medium length, burnt wood, apple turnover with honey and maple syrup. Comments: pleasant, flawless, doing its job very well but perhaps not with tons of character, as they say.
SGP:551 - 80 points.

Biersky (59.6%, OB, Distillerie Bertrand, France, beer and malt eau-de-vie, 2023)

A blend of young malt spirit (40%) and beer spirit (60%) made here in Uberach in Alsace by Bertrand and their wizard Jean Metzger. So, it is not exactly whisky, but it’s not exactly not whisky either (don’t quote me). I’ve tried earlier batches before, Biersky being a favourite in many Alsatian restaurants, but I’m not sure I’ve ever written any notes. Perhaps in an old forgotten notebook? Colour: full gold. Nose: we’re in whisky territory, it’s not the ultra-floral side of some very hoppy beer spirits, but rather bags and bags of mirabelles and apricots. A very nice earthy side, though I can’t say if it comes from the beer. With water: slight saponification after adding Vittel, then sweet apples and perhaps a hint of hops. Hops are an Alsatian specialty; I remember when I first tasted Lagunitas in California long ago, I found out the hops were from... Alsace. Mouth (neat): a distinct pear eau-de-vie character, but also masala and other spices, curries, ras-el-hanout… I really like this. Lots of fruit peels. With water: excellent, even more on pear, vanilla, and a bit of wood. Finish: similar. Comments: I love this Biersky, and it feels like this recent batch is even better than the previous ones. If you're at a restaurant and torn between an eau-de-vie and a whisky, choose a Biersky!
SGP:640 - 85 points.

Armorik ‘Classic’ (46%, OB, France, bourbon, +/-2022)

Here we are with Warenghem in Brittany, one of the undeniable leaders of French whisky. I’ve tasted the Classic back in 2011, and it was already quite good (WF 82). And I like it when a whisky isn’t given an overly fancy name, even when it’s NAS. Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh, with gooseberries, apples, a discreet touch of vanilla, and some freshly cut grass, with a hint of pastis. Breton pastis, of course. It’s simple, precise, and pleasant. Mouth: nice fruitiness, indeed classic, with apples, plums, peach, fresh barley, white pepper, and tea (wood). Finish: medium length, apple and barley. Comments: I still agree with myself (and that’s no small feat). A very good young malt, not extravagant at all.
SGP:441 - 82 points.

Without a doubt, the contrary...

Warenghem 9 yo 2014/2024 (59.6%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Nature series, France, 1st fill oloroso butt, cask #3531)

Yep, Warenghem = Armorik. Another superb label from Swell d.S. Colour: full gold. Nose: a tad warm but the pecan nut pie, slightly sweet and salty, and peanut butter notes seem quite perfect. Water is needed to explore further. With water: dill, fennel, mint, dried seaweed, walnut wine, cigars… Mouth (neat): it seems top-notch, sharp, lemony, very lively while being robust, very much on bitter and roasted nuts… With water: a festival! Salt, lemon, nuts, pecans, a touch of brine, very dry raisins, pipe tobacco, bitter oranges, artichoke liqueur, and so on. Finish: long and even more bitter. Wonderfully bitter and peppery. It should be tried as an addition to beer (Breton beer, of course). Comments: a lovely beast, somewhat the opposite of the very gentle ‘classic’, as expected.
SGP:472 - 88 points.

Armorik 13 yo 2009/2023 (60.6%, The Auld Alliance, France/Singapore, cask #8241)

I like this motto on the label, "Ne Jamais Dire Jamais." Never say never, feels a bit like a James Bond movie. Like, shipping some French whisky to a famous bar in Singapore. Colour: full gold. Nose: a few hints of cherry brandy, then some damp earth, but it's a bit strong to nose without restraint. With water: earthy notes, tobaccos, linseed oil, paraffin, toasted sesame oil, old leather (Connolly, of course) … Mouth (neat): ah, excellent! Lovely earthy and spicy character, nuts in all their forms, cherries, more cherries, drops of seawater, quince… With water: hazelnut cake, walnuts, almonds, pecans, macadamias, pine nuts… And a hint of fir wood indeed. Very light sulphur, suggesting a wine cask. Finish: long, more on leaves, stems, fruit skins, and the everlasting nuts. Comments: extremely different, but more or less on the same level as the "Swell."
SGP:461 - 88 points.

Break…

St Palais ‘Pointe Blanche’ (43%, Le Cercle, single malt, France, +/-2023)

St Palais ‘Pointe Blanche’ (43%, Le Cercle, single malt, France, +/-2023)
Distilled in Cognac stills in the Cognac region, and finished in ex-peater casks - in-cask blending as we say - which is not quite my preferred method but there, I suppose only the results count. Colour: white wine. Nose: it seems to work, it's very light, there are a few whiffs of cigarette smoke (remember cigarette smoke?) and pear. This peaty pear side can also be found in very young Caol Ila, for instance. Other than that, it seems quite harmless… Mouth: more presence, a bit of ginger liqueur, elderflower liqueur too, citron, muesli, white pepper, a bit of peppery apple juice… Frankly, it's pleasant and goes down easily. Finish: almost refreshing, slightly salty, with hints of buckwheat and even a touch of pineapple. Comments: perhaps the gentlest peated whisky in the world. As Nick & Nick wrote on your WF a long time ago, (What's So Funny 'Bout) Peace, Love and Understanding?
SGP:543 - 83 points.

Wait, there is also a boosted version...

St Palais ‘Pointe Blanche - OLO’ (50.2%, Le Cercle, single malt, France, oloroso finish, 2,400 bottles, +/-2023)

As long as it’s oloroso, we’re fine. Just saying. Colour: gold. Nose: leather, tobacco, green walnuts, equally green apples, being inside a flower and vegetable greenhouse, fresh almonds, asparagus and turnips… this very vegetal side suits me perfectly. Also, notes of honey and fresh gingerbread. With a bit of water: kougelhopf and fresh panettone. We're getting there, full speed ahead… Mouth (neat): very good. Many distilleries nowadays produce similar whiskies, from Japan to Argentina via South Africa and Italy, but that takes nothing away from their respective merits. With water: very good. Honey, candy sugar, cakes, icing, nuts, vanilla, apple jelly… Finish: medium length, sweet, pleasant, flawless. More nuts and oak in the aftertaste. Comments: reminds me of some of the new Irish whiskies. Excellent, perhaps just not extremely memorable.
SGP:541 - 84 points.

I deeply regret not having the time to delve into the subject of French whiskies, let alone visit the distilleries. Some lie less than 50 kilometres from WF Towers, and yet I cannot really go to see them. There are just so many… Right, back to Brittany we go…

Eddu 2017/2023 (54%, OB, for LMDW New Vibrations, cognac cask, cask #W08109, 300 bottles)

Pure 'blé noir'/buckwheat whisky. The use of a cognac cask might seem a tad disappointing, but it’s a multi-fill cask, so probably quite insignificant. As for the seminal question, "is buckwheat a cereal?" let's just say we don't really care. Colour: white wine. Nose: violets, pineapples, Szechuan pepper, hibiscus and jasmine, then the ultimate IPA, bursting with ultra-aromatic hops. With water: even more beer-like. Mouth (neat): I love it, it’s got everything except ‘whisky’. Calvados, pear liqueur, aquavit, rosewater, mandarin liqueur, Mei Kwei Lu... is sorghum close to buckwheat? An eternal novice's question. With water: pear and rose take the lead. It's like a cocktail sipped on the Bosphorus, watching the boats sail by. Finish: mandarin liqueur, pink pepper, roses, flower liqueurs. Comments: a somewhat mad whisky, terribly smooth but never cloying, quite the opposite. Some parts reminded us of Biersky! Quite crazy, love this one too.
SGP:830 - 85 points.

No need to leave Brittany, especially since we still have Kornog. We loved Kornog, but they disappeared from our radar. I hope all is well over there, and that they continue to distil according to the founder's principles. Good luck, Kornog!

Kornog 2016/2023 (52.7%, Swell de Spirits, Wonders of the World series, 90 bottles)
A double maturation, apparently, but I'm sure that's not a problem. Colour: white wine. Nose: the impressive smoky purity of Kornog, between new plastic, lime zest, and seawater. Voilà. With water: sublime, one of the greatest European malts along with Millstone and Smögen. No, the United Kingdom has left Europe, didn’t you know? Mouth (neat): insanely elegant. Rosemary, thyme, lemon, menthol cigarettes, oysters, crab… With water: very impressive. It’s Venus emerging from the sea, in whisky form. Imagine, only 6 or 7 years old. Finish: a little warm and disordered, almost rustic, but that adds another dimension. I'm sure it’s the fault of that double maturation. Comments: absolutely sublime, even if it lost 1 point on the finish. I agree, there are more important things in the world right now.
SGP:566 - 91 points.
Update: this from a bottle that's been breathing for a few months.

A wee last one…

Kornog 8 yo 2015/2023 ‘Quelque Part Dans le Ciel’ (57.9%, La Maison du Whisky, Ex Libris, France, 1st fill bourbon, cask #21008)

Somewhere in the skies indeed. Just hope it is not a testament. One of the most elegant series of whiskies ever bottled, in my humble opinion. Okay, okay, maybe it's just a tad elitist, dear La Maison. Colour: white wine. Nose: wheat, hay, white tea, green tea, and a curious hint of game and truffle. Poularde, chardonnay, mushrooms, rubber… With water: ink and wax emerge. Modelling clay. Mouth (neat): my goodness! It’s less assertive than the 2016, but perhaps more elegantly lively, shall we say. Elastic bands, salt, zest, and turpentine. Olive oil, basil, lemon. With water: and more olive oil! Olive oil will save the world (together with lemon). Finish: long but well-mannered, rather on almond milk and barley syrup. A few winkles in the aftertaste, after all, we are in Brittany. Comments: that’s the crazy thing about great whiskies, it’s as if someone sent you a letter in 2015, and you’re reading it in 2024. That said, with the very relative performances of the ultra-unionised La Poste, we wouldn’t even be surprised. No, of course, we love them, we send them thousands of kisses and hugs.
SGP:555 - 90 points.

Check the index of all world whiskies we've tasted so far