Staying with the Japanese team, Day 2


July 31, 2024

Staying with the Japanese team, Day 2 (Olympics Day 5)

We began the last session with Nikka, so let’s move on to Suntory. We hope that NAS will increasingly become a thing of the past, but of course, there are still many we haven't yet tasted. Even though we don't quite like seeing ‘founding’ years - or other age/vintage look-alike numbers - prominently displayed on the labels or neck labels. But tey will go.

Hakushu ‘Spanish Oak’ (48%, OB, 2021 Edition)

We are well acquainted with the ‘Sherry Cask’, a fine dram indeed (WF 89 in cruise control mode), but the ‘Spanish Oak’ remains a mystery. Presumably, it wasn't previously genuine ‘sherry’… Colour: cognac. Nose: oh là là là là, it’s like Jamaican rum! Nuts, petrol, tar, lapsang souchong, black olives, then wild strawberry liqueur and wood glue. Magnificent and very spectacular. Mouth (neat): what a lark, we’ve wandered into Demerara territory, with more crushed strawberries, rock candy, Turkmen tar liqueur (unsure of the country), toffee, salted liquorice… Now the base structure is curiously light, even fragile. In short, we move from Demerara to the Dominican Republic (wonderful people, usually pretty poor rums). Finish: quite curiously, we remain in rum territory. It’s very surprising. Tar, salt, brown sugar, smoke… Comments: it’s a truly peculiar Hakushu, with an almost collaborative vibe, akin to something from Warhol’s Factory circa 1970. Finally, you see, it’s not really ‘whisky’ in your glass, but some aspects are sublime.
SGP:653 - 84 points.

Let’s further check that.

Hakushu 18 yo ‘Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, 2023)

Of course, it’s ‘peated’. Honestly, this should be quite good… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s old Laphroaig. One cannot help but think of the old 30-year-old, which is fitting since Suntory now owns Laphroaig. Sublime camphor, bandages, embrocations, menthol and eucalyptus inhalations (some whiskies do this even better than eucalyptus oil, seriously) … In short, all those medicinal things we adore in old Laphroaig that aren’t just about the peat. Even noble apple juice and very ripe mango. Mouth: ah yes, it’s a bit more oaky than the nose suggested, alas, but it remains quite magnificent, coastal and medicinal, with peat mingled with green spices, green pepper, cider apple… Perhaps the best mouthwash ever produced by mankind. Finish: rather long, heading towards green curry, salted seaweed (wakame), orange chutney, then our friends the slightly plump oysters… Comments: there’s almost always a bit of boosted woodiness in Japanese malts, and that’s the case here, but it’s still a fabulous bottle. Happy 100th, Suntory (I’m sorry we’re late).
SGP:564 - 90 points.

That puts Hakushu in the lead in our Olympic rankings.

While we’re at it…

Yamazaki 18 yo ’Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, Mizunara, 2023)

Have we not already ravaged all the Mongolian oak forests (mizunara) at this rate? Twenty years ago, almost no one had heard of the famous 'quercus mongolica crispula'. Moreover, it seems that the truly Mongolian forests no longer exist, but that’s not whisky’s fault. Phew. Colour: full gold. Nose: attention, Yamazaki is a grand malt. Here we delve into the complex, the subtle, the floral. Honeysuckle, acacia flower, beeswax, mandarin peel, orange blossom water, green orange essence... This is all so wonderful; one might almost dab a few drops behind the ears. What a nose! Mouth: but of course. The mizunara and its pine buds are quickly forgotten, shifting focus to quince, wild rose, medlar, hay wine, white clover honey, and simply bruised apples. Magnificent and truly 'Japanese'. Finish: not eternal but both soft and firm, on frozen fruits. Icewine, baby? Comments: I think we are at the pinnacle of Japan today, unless some Shizuoka or Chichibu comes along to challenge this. We shall see very soon…
SGP:551 - 91 points.

Yamazaki now in the lead…

Yamazaki ‘Mizunara Tsukuriwake Selection’ (48%, OB, Japan, 2022 Edition)

The price commanded by these bottles, without any age indication (2K€), is simply incomprehensible to many. Who would buy a... well, a Maserati without knowing if it has a straight-4 or a V8 under the bonnet? That analogy’s a bit murky, I grant you. Well, one would still love to know who Mr. Tsukuriwake is, wouldn’t you? Colour: gold. Nose: of course, it’s very lovely, both taut and gentle, with freshly sawn wood and candle wax, bruised apple, quince tart rather than apple, a hint of vetiver in the background, even some shampoo notes... We're quite far from the 18-100th. Mouth: but yes, it’s very good, somewhat akin to some Dufftown malts (GF, B.) but with much more pronounced woodiness. Pine nuts, pine needles, and even a slight sawdust note. Finish: rather long but really on over brewed tea, wood, with a noticeable tannic quality. Notes of strawberry in the aftertaste. Comments: it started off magnificently, but the wood took over and somehow unbalanced the whole. Well, in my humble opinion.
SGP:451 - 83 points.

Chichibu 2017/2023 (65%, OB for ePower, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #8279, 176 bottles)

Love the name ‘ePower’, sounds like a new range by BMW. No offence meant (to ePower). Right, let’s tighten our belts, say our prayers, and think of the republic... Deep breath... here we go! Colour: pale gold. Nose: new rubber boots, fresh seaweed, all kinds of fresh bread from various countries, kerosene... And not much else. But at 65% ABV, one is a bit wary. With water: brand new Barbour (TM) jacket. I’m sure they’ve got the equivalent in Japan. Mouth (neat): it seems just totally perfect; it just clings a bit to the tongue and palate. A lot of lemon, it seems. With water: not much. A diamond is also not much (would you cut that, S. – your wife). Maybe some salted apples? And lime. Finish: long, salty, taut, precise, simple. Comments: another great Chichibu, perhaps a bit simpler albeit more ‘efficient’ than others. After all, it’s only five or six years old.
SGP:462 - 89 points.

Hey, wait a minute, let's have a little Anglo-German expression before we call this a tasting session...

Bimber ‘Germany Edition 2023’ (59.2%, OB, Kirsch Import, PX sherry, cask #456, 280 bottles)

What's with these eagles on the label? Bimber, you might want to not mention the... Colour: deep gold. Nose: we knew this was going to be delightful, with the PX nicely tamed, delivering notes of ripe papaya, banana, wild strawberry liqueur, and raisins macerated in rum. We bow to this one. With water: polish! And asparagus, ski wax, and fresh motor oil... Mouth (neat): a magnificent Bimber, showcasing orange zest, chen-pi, and pink peppercorns... With water: the finest PX we’ve ever encountered. In other words, this wretched PX is totally under control. Smoked raisins and various waxes, you get the idea. Finish: quite long, leaning towards smoked raisins with a hint of botrytis, reminiscent of old Chaume. Comments: not the most straightforward whisky, but that adds to the dialogue and confrontation (eh?). It’s better at cask strength, but then again, cask strength is nearly 60% ABV. C’est la vie.
SGP:562 - 87 points.

We’ll be back with the Japanese starting tomorrow. Come back if you want but brace yourselves – and contact your insurance company.

Current Medal Standing
(July 31, Updated Daily)

Gold		Japan Yamazaki 18 yo ’Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, Mizunara, 2023)
Silver		Japan Hakushu 18 yo ‘Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, 2023)
Bronze		Japan Chichibu 2017/2023 (65%, OB for ePower, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #8279, 176 bottles)