Staying with the Japanese team, Day 3


August 1, 2024

Staying with the Japanese team, Day 3 (Olympics Day 6)

Yam

To be honest, we mainly wanted to add a row of Shizuokas, but before that, another small Kaiyo, a peated one this time. Let's expect some 'Natural Sound' whiskies today...

Kaiyo ‘The Peated’ (46%, OB, Japan, Mizunara and Madeira, +/-2022?)

Kaiyo ‘The Peated’ (46%, OB, Japan, Mizunara and Madeira, +/-2022)

This one’s said to be made with malt peated to 35ppm. Quite a feat. We’ve already had a taste of the Kaiyo ‘Peated 1st Edition’ from 2018, mizunara-aged back then, which we found quite delightful (WF 85). This newer batch spent 2 years in Madeira casks and then 5 years in mizunara. Colour: gold. Nose: a very lovely nose, reminiscent of a young Yoichi, elegant with notes of toasted bread, porridge, mashed banana, chalk, and a light smokiness, mingling with menthol and pinewood. It’s tricky to determine whether this pine smoke comes from the peat or the inevitable mizunara. Nonetheless, it’s a very charming nose, quite Japanese in style, indeed. Mouth: really good. White pepper, saline touches, cider apples, a hint of grapefruit, spicy nuances, perhaps a splash of Worcestershire sauce, then notes of walnut liqueur, mustard, and raisins boiled in wine, likely the influence of the Madeira. It’s seriously tasty, with even a slight hint of Ben Nevis (fancy that!). Finish: long, saline, with a very pleasant smoky bitterness. Comments: the peat isn’t overwhelming, but this rather mysterious Kaiyo is excellent.
SGP:563 - 86 points.

We also have this new Ontake...

Ontake ‘The First Edition 2023’ (43%, OB, Japan, 1st fill Solera sherry butts)

This one brings us to Hioki City in the Kagoshima prefecture, already home to Tsunuki (Mars) and Kanosuke. This is, of course, our first Ontake, and it is undoubtedly very young, probably around 3 years old. The price is quite high for a 43% ABV, but we've seen this with initial releases from various distilleries before. Auction sales typically sort things out. Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely nose, initially a bit metallic, then moving to overripe apple and Belgian beer, with cherry leaves and stems in the background, followed by green nuts directly from the sherry. Mouth: a very classic whisky, well-made, without obvious peculiarities, and somewhat light due to the alcohol level that feels very 1990s. A dry and rather herbal sherry does most of the work, with walnut wine, cherry stems again, touches of slightly bitter radish, and leather... Finish: of medium length, consistently on similar notes. Bitter almonds and green nuts, plus a hint of candied sugar. Comments: no problem, it will no doubt improve. Not too sure about those 43% though.
SGP:361 - 80 points.

Shizuoka 2018/2024 (46.6%, OB, Sushi + Soul Munich, Japan, KS+WS, bourbon, cask #939)

We’ll try not to go overboard but know that we have high hopes. Colour: full gold. Nose: immediate. Panettone, mango cake, smoked paprika, bread dough, marzipan, and a hint of kirsch. I believe we should bow immediately, as this combination, perhaps improbable on paper, is masterful in your glass. With water: absolutely no change. In short, a waste of water. Perhaps just a bigger clay or crushed slate note. Mouth (neat): simply mad. Salty liquorice, mango chutney, very dry pepper, and again that smoked paprika. Smoked paprika is just so good. With water: superb spices, ras-el-hanout, saffron, and a slight rubbery touch that’s delightful. Finish: long, rather rich. Kumquats and bergamots, a bit of mild curry, and more paprika and saffron. Comments: it was a very active cask but the original product’s elegance was preserved with skill. To be enjoyed on sushi and with soul, naturally. Water was not that necessary.
SGP:563 - 90 points.

Shizuoka ‘United S - Summer Edition 2023’ (50.5%, OB, Japan, first-fill bourbon)

This is a self-blend of the ‘K’ and ‘W’ stills/styles. Remember, W is direct-fired with wood, while K is a steam-heated ex-Karuizawa still. W is theoretically heavier; K is meant to be lighter. Colour: gold. Nose: this is deeper, chalkier, doughier, more natural, and less aromatic than cask 288, with a very peculiar yet simple blend of crushed bananas, lemon, and apple juices. When the proportions are right, as they are here, it’s fantastic. With just a drop of water: Meursault and acacia honey. Mouth (neat): liquid perfection. Beeswax, lemon, apple, pink pepper, and basta cosi. Even the first-fill bourbon barrel behaved well. With water: sweet little peppers add their touch to the structure. Finish: rather long, immaculate. Comments: it’s simple, almost monastic. A splendid malt for purist enthusiasts a tad obsessed with distillates. But no names…
SGP: 561 - 91 points.

Shizuoka ‘Pot Still W Japanese barley First Edition’ (55.5%, OB, Japan, Japan exclusive, 2,500 bottles, 2023)Shizuoka ‘Pot Still W Japanese barley First Edition’ (55.5%, OB, Japan, Japan exclusive, 2,500 bottles, 2023)

Shizuoka ‘Pot Still W Japanese barley First Edition’ (55.5%, OB, Japan, Japan exclusive, 2,500 bottles, 2023)

Well, you see the story. Using local, even national barley, inherently speaks to the true notion of terroir. However, it is true that most, if not all, the absolute marvels of Scotland we’ve enjoyed from the beginning weren't distilled from Scottish barley, although small quantities were sometimes used. But let’s move on, we’re in Japan... Colour: straw. Nose: raw wool, chalk, Chardonnay must, apple juice, cider, vanilla pod. With water: porridge, chalk, and fresh plaster. Mouth (neat): a slightly prominent American oak, otherwise apple, barley syrup, fresh bread, biscuits, green pears, green pepper... Quite a lot of green pepper, in fact. With water: the fruits come to the forefront, green apples, limes, gooseberries, starfruit... It remains elegant and never exuberant. Finish: medium length, with excellent balance. Green tea, apples, white Burgundy, mandarins. Comments: superb but a bit understated, one might say.
SGP: 551 - 88 points.

Shizuoka 2019/2023 (65.2%, Asta Morris, Japan, peated, pot still K, bourbon barrel, cask #1222, 302 bottles)

I believe we’ll need to hold on to the tasting table for this one. The 2018/2023 W by Asta Morris (Asama Morris?) was splendid (WF 91). Colour: gold. Nose: just let it be. Smoked lemon and mentholated seaweed, there’s no better combination. And at 65.2%, we won't insist further; we don’t want to end up in legal trouble with our Belgian friends, especially since there's already football... With water: smoked wool, damp earth, lemon peel, morning bread dough, charcoal, and a touch of icy mint. Mouth (neat): a Toledo blade. As they say, it cuts you in two perfectly equal halves. Pepper, lemon, ashes. With water: it slightly rattles your vertebrae; indeed this green pepper sends shivers down your spine. I think it’s best to taste this in a clear state of mind, without having indulged in other drinks beforehand. Not even Westvleteren, Cantillon, or Orval, just to be clear. Finish: long, ultra-precise, fruitier, almost simpler, and easier. Lemon, apple, ashes. Comments: I’ll ramble a bit more, but this Shizuoka reminds me of the first Yamaha amplifier that entered our family home in the 1970s. It said ‘Natural Sound’ on the front. It would be nice to see ‘Natural Whisky’ on some labels, wouldn’t it? Like on this one. Very brilliant peated Shizuoka, in any case.
SGP: 566 - 91 points.

How should we end this little Olympic challenge? With some fino from England, from Bimber again, right?

Bimber ‘Stratford’ (58.5%, OB, England, The Spirit of the Underground, Fino cask, cask #267/16, 325 bottles, 2024)

I do pop down to London now and then, though I must admit I rarely take the Tube. Never to ‘Stratford’, mind you, but I do trust a good fino cask. A humble reminder, just in case: fino ages under a veil of yeast, whereas an oloroso is exposed to air in its cask. Colour: dark gold. Nose: classic Bimber, elevated and joyous, fruity, demonstrative, seductive, with a hint of roguish charm. Mandarin, guava, wormwood, peonies, patchouli, fresh seaweed, orange cake—quite the bouquet. With water: hints of metal polish and even old pennies, a touch of geranium too. Mouth (neat): the fino has added a bit of peppery mustard, even wasabi, but the rest evolves over all sorts of citrus. Truly delightful, somewhat reminiscent of the early Bimber style that left us quite impressed. With water: exotic fruit salad, including that ever-present dragon fruit that’s not as aromatic as it’s made out to be. Notes of seawater and green nuts, which likely come from the fino. Finish: fairly long, lovely, and rather elegant in the end. Green tea and banana skin. Avoid adding too much water; it quickly loses its edge. Comments: the modern style at its finest. Careful cask management with a touch of romance. Stratford, where's that again? I suppose that’s not Stratford-upon-Avon, is it (totally lame, S.)
SGP:651 - 89 points.

(Thank you Alex, Andy, Bert, and Chris)

Current Medal Standing
(August 1, Updated Daily)

Gold		Japan Yamazaki 18 yo ’Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, Mizunara, 2023)
Silver		Japan Shizuoka 2019/2023 (65.2%, Asta Morris, Japan, peated, pot still K, bourbon barrel, cask #1222, 302 bottles)
Bronze		Japan Shizuoka ‘United S - Summer Edition 2023’ (50.5%, OB, Japan, first-fill bourbon)