The Olympic Sessions, Day 15, from Bulgaria to Japan


August 14, 2024

The Olympic Sessions, Day 15, from Bulgaria to Japan

It's time to try to recover from our visit to the superb Whisky Fringe in Edinburgh, which we attended for the very first time. Now, here is our last (or second-to-last?) Olympic session now that the real games have been well and truly over for two or three days. And this time, we'll start with a rather new malt-whisky-producing country, at least according to our own little index here at WF.
(Advert for Wild Turkey, c.1985. No global warming issues in sight.)

Isperitus (43%, OB, Bulgaria, single malt, rum barrel finish, 1,800 bottles, 2024)

Our first Bulgarian whisky, and indeed, our first Bulgarian single malt. And no, we’ve never tried ‘Black Ram’ – quite the oversight, we must admit. The distillery resides in Isperih, a quaint town in the northeast of Bulgaria, some 150 km from Varna. Colour: gold. Nose: rather pleasant, I must say, with a delicate fragrance. You get those gentle notes of sweet beer typical of very young whiskies, some juicy pear slices, well-balanced vanilla, and oak, and perhaps a hint of rum – but nothing overdone, mind you, so it doesn’t overwhelm the whisky’s character, as can happen elsewhere. Well done, Bulgarian friends. Mouth: indeed, not bad at all, quite in line with the nose. There’s pear again, and prickly pear too, touches of orange, a whisper of baker’s yeast, followed by toasted wood and a touch of toffee. The fruitiness is enough to carry it through and avoids the ‘new plank’ note often found in other very young whiskies. Rather clever to have done a rum finish (and I don’t often say that!). Finish: not even too short. The usual notes of white pepper and cinnamon linger in the aftertaste. Comments: This is rather serious stuff!
SGP:641 – 83 points.

Milk & Honey ‘Elements Sherry Cask’ (46%, OB, Israel, +/-2024)

Colour: gold. Nose: leaning towards the sweet side, with notes of jelly babies, grenadine, and figs, giving the impression of a sweeter style of sherry. Pralines follow, along with a mix of triple-sec (Cointreau and Grand Marnier, 50/50), and a hint of very fresh panettone, packed with raisins and a touch of orange blossom. I had tasted this ‘Element’ a few years ago, and it seems to have improved mucho since then. Mouth: indeed, it’s harmonious, sweet, very fruity, almost a tad liqueur-like, but pleasantly so. There are small red fruits, cranberries, and blood orange... Finish: follows the same profile, very fruity, without major spices along the way, though there’s a hint of Timut pepper. Comments: it’s not the most ‘prestigious’ of the latest M&H releases, but there will certainly be more to come here on little WF. Peace.
SGP:631 – 84 points.

Maybe just an indie...

Milk & Honey 4 yo 2018/2023 (65.8%, Whisky Concerto, Israel, STR, cask #0505, 175 bottles)

I fear that in general, we may never escape the clutches of STR casks again. Nor PX, nor Cabernet-Sauvignon. What can you do, that’s life. Colour: light amber. Nose: rather surprisingly, we find ourselves leaning towards the profile of a young, slightly artisanal bourbon, with liquid caramel, though this likely stems from the very high ABV. Beyond that, it seems rather lovely, rich yet balanced, not vinous as such (but many STR casks aren’t). Quickly, with water: a hint of gin, sweet woodruff, coriander seeds, fresh wood... Mouth (neat): once more, that amusing bourbon-like quality, with even a touch of rye, then dark nougat, juniper, capsicum, and increasingly prominent pepper. Quickly, with water: its better side emerges, with soft pepper, malt, Szechuan pepper, touches of turmeric, and cinchona… Finish: we find a bit of the fruitier side reminiscent of the official version we just sampled, but always with a very marked spicy edge. Comments: very good for its age, but you'll need a pipette worthy of an international competition. Peace.
SGP:562 - 84 points.

Bourbon, he said…

Wild Turkey ‘Rare Breed’ (58.4%, OB, USA, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, +/-2024)

We tried a newer expression of WT ‘101’ the other day and were quite taken with it (WF 86). This Rare Breed small batch is reputed to be very ‘maizy’ (75% maize) and is pleasantly affordable. Colour: full gold. Nose: strong yet soft if you will. A slight note of nail polish and hairspray, then orange-infused vanilla and a hint of Earl Grey. Quite charming. With water: rather similar, soft, fruity, with curious but delightful touches of lemon basil. The hairspray notes fade away, thankfully shall we add. Mouth (neat): lovely! There may not be much rye, but its presence remains unmistakable, with orange and cumin, lemon balm, sweet woodruff, and even tiny hints of genepy. I’m quite fond of it. With water: cinnamon and honey step forward, still with that orange note. Finish: much the same. The balance is quite perfect, and the oranges play their role as the ‘uplifters’, if you see what I mean. Comments: let’s not forget that Pernod Ricard sold Wild Turkey to Campari for €430M back in 2009. Well, I’m not sure why that’s relevant here, but there you have it. Solid bronze medal!
SGP:631 - 87 points.

Nantou 5 yo ‘Batch 2’ (52%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, Taiwan, 10th Anniversary, 281 bottles, 2022)

Colour: white wine. Nose: brilliant! Iodine tincture, drawing gum, paraffin, cloves, camphor, bandages, beech smoke… Was there a reracking in a Laphroaig cask, by chance? I wasn’t aware – or perhaps I’ve missed the memo – that Nantou produced this style. With water: beautiful purity this time. A glass of Verdejo and some fresh wool (a new cashmere jumper – woof). Mouth (neat): again, this rather unique peatiness, this time giving the impression of smoked mussels with lemonwood or something along those lines. With water: it starts to go slightly off the rails, with plastic and rubber showing up a tad too prominently, but overall, it remains very good. Finish: long, with ashes and lemon zest. And that famous new cashmere jumper. Comments: a bit unusual and even deviant, but we’re French, so we’re supposed to like that, according to the world’s press, ha.
SGP:465 - 85 points.

Let's try to nab a gold medal...

Chichibu 8 yo 2014/2024 (56.4%, Adelphi, Japan, cask #3822, 215 bottles)

Ah, there we have it, brilliant! It seems they’ve finally upped the font size on their labels at Adelphi, but now it's all in Japanese! Provocative, isn’t it? Not that we don’t admire Japanese characters, mind you… Colour: straw. Nose: razor-sharp precision, pure barley, lemon, and that’s all, basta cosi. With water: even more pinpoint, almost Malevich-esque. A white square on a white background. Mouth (neat): pure Chichibu, thick yet nervous, tense, with barley, lemon, and a hint of hay. Tiny notes of gentian and absinthe peeking through. With water: sublime purity, with that barley nudging its way back in. Finish: long, lemony, slightly waxy, a tad thick, with a whisper of tar. Comments: simply our preferred style. And it’s hardly surprising that the folks at Ardnamurchan/Adelphi chose this cask. Great minds think alike, and all that. However, there’s still the matter of sorting out that label issue. When’s the head designer retiring, again? Anyway, gold.
SGP:551 - 91 points.

Alright, we'll see tomorrow if we can squeeze in one last little Olympic session. Or maybe two.

(Thank you, Boris)

Current Medal Standing
After Day 15

92 - Gold
	TTO Trinidad Distillers Limited 14 yo 2009/2024 'Edition N°1' (62.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club, bourbon cask, cask #106, 259 bottles)
91 - Gold
	JPN Chichibu 8 yo 2014/2024 (56.4%, Adelphi, Japan, cask #3822, 215 bottles) JPN Shizuoka 2019/2023 (65.2%, Asta Morris, Japan, peated, pot still K, bourbon barrel, cask #1222, 302 bottles) JPN Shizuoka ‘United S - Summer Edition 2023’ (50.5%, OB, Japan, first-fill bourbon) JPN Yamazaki 18 yo ’Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, Mizunara, 2023) GUI Uitvlugt 31 yo 1990/2022 (56.2%, Silver Seal, Guyana) FIJ South Pacific Distillery 11 yo 2012/2023 (57.5%, The Whisky Jury, Fiji, refill barrel, cask #12, 292 bottles)
90 - Silver
	JPN Hakushu 18 yo ‘Suntory 100th Anniversary’ (48%, OB, Japan, 2023) NED Millstone 26 yo 1996/2022 (47.7%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Netherlands, American oak, cask #1372, 264 bottles) JPN Shizuoka 2018/2024 (46.6%, OB, Sushi + Soul Munich, Japan, KS+WS, bourbon, cask #939) TTO Caroni 25-year-old 1998/2023 (60.1%, Impressions by The Colours of Rum, Trinidad, cask #8, 120 bottles) TTO Caroni 25 yo 1999/2024 (57.2%, Jean Boyer, Rum Bullion, Trinidad, cask #198) TTO Caroni 24 yo 1998/2023 ‘Mars’ (61.1%, Jack Tar, Cosmic Series, cask #2185, 195 bottles) LCA Chairman’s Reserve 15 yo 2005/2022 (61.5%, OB, St. Lucia, GotA & RumX, bourbon, cask #06012000, 232 bottles) CUB Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (52%, Spheric Spirits, cask #2314302, 258 bottles) BAR Foursquare 20 yo 2002/2023 (49%, The Colours of Rhum, Barbados, N°19, cask #4, 208 bottles)
89 - Silver
	FRA Alfred Giraud ‘Une Odyssée’ (52.9%, OB, France, Collection Singulière, cognac cask, 459 bottles) GBR Bimber ‘Stratford’ (58.5%, OB, England, The Spirit of the Underground, Fino cask, cask #267/16, 325 bottles, 2024) KOR Kimshangsoo Single Cask (52.1%, OB, Korea, Artist Edition, 1st fill European oloroso hogshead, 312 bottles, 2023) AIN Caribbean Rum 30 yo 1993/2024 (60.5%, eSpirit, Liquid Treasures, 15th anniversary, barrel, 282 bottles)
88 - Bronze
	GBR Bimber ‘Wimbledon’ (56.6%, OB, England, The Spirit of the Underground, Vino de Naranja cask, cask #310/5, 298 bottles, 2024) JPN Chichibu 2017/2023 (65%, OB for ePower, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #8279, 176 bottles) USA Copperworks 3 yo 2018/2022 (56.8%, Whisky-Facile, USA, Black Cat Series, virgin oak, cask #287, 239 bottles) ITA Exmu ‘Spirit of Sardinia’ (45.5%, OB, Italy, bourbon, +/-2024) JPN Kanosuke 2019/2023 (61%, OB, for ePower, Japan, oloroso sherry, cask #19421, 281 bottles) TPE Kavalan 9 yo 2014/2024 ‘9 years + 363 Days’ (60.2%, Tiffany’s New York Bar Hong Kong, Taiwan, Port cask, cask #O140311068A, 147 bottles) JPN Mars Tsunuki 6 yo 2017/2024 ‘Yakushima Aging’ (58%, OB, Japan, for Tiffany’s New York Bar and AF Trade, sherry hogshead, cask #2094, 252 bottles) GBR Penderyn 13 yo 2010/2023 (59.5%, OB, Wales, LMDW New Vibrations, second fill bourbon, cask #313/2010) JPN Shizuoka ‘Pot Still W Japanese barley First Edition’ (55.5%, OB, Japan, Japan exclusive, 2,500 bottles, 2023) JPN Yoichi 10 yo (45%, OB, Japan, Edition 2022) GUY Diamond 20 yo 2003/2024 'SVL' (51.6%, The Roots, Guyana, bourbon cask, cask #23, 174 bottles) CVD Sodade 'Cana Rocca Ouro Blanco' (43.1%, OB, Cape Verde, grogue, +/-2023)
87 - Bronze
	FRA Alfred Giraud ‘Intrigue #2’ (51.5%, OB, France, +/-2024) GBR Bimber ‘Germany Edition 2023’ (59.2%, OB, Kirsch Import, sherry, cask #456, 280 bottles) GBR Bimber 2018/2023 (58.9%, OB, England, LMDW, cognac cask finish, cask #327/05) GBR Filey Bay 2016/2021 (63.1%, OB, England, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #146, 271 bottles) NED Kalkwijck 2019/2023 ‘Higgledy Piggledy Rye’ (44%, OB, The Netherlands, American oak, 480 bottles, +/-2023) TPE Kavalan 2014/2024 (61%, OB for Malt, Grain & Cane, Port, cask #O140201019A, 186 bottles) FIN Kyrö 'Malt Rye' (47.2%, OB, Finland, +/-2023) NED Millstone 2019/2024 (57.3%, OB for The Whisky Jury, refill PX hogshead, cask #2547, 319 bottles) ESP Sherishor 12 yo (45%, OB, Spain, ‘pure malt whisky’, +/-2024) GER St. Kilian 2019/2024 ‘Unpeated’ (59.4%, OB, Germany, single cask, ex Four Roses bourbon barrel) GER The Westfalian ‘Masterpiece Peated’ (64.1%, OB, Germany, ex-Macallan sherry hogshead, cask #TW74, 238 bottles) GER The Westfalian 2012/2024 'Single Grain' (62.5%, OB, Germany, ex-Ben Nevis sherry hogshead, cask #TW8, 266 bottles) USA Westward ‘Cask Strength 125 Proof’ (62.5%, OB, USA, +/-2023) USA Wild Turkey ‘Rare Breed’ (58.4%, OB, USA, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, +/-2024) AIN Ron Colon ‘Salvadoreno High Proof’ (55.5%, OB, blend, +/-2022) TTO Trinidad Distillers Limited 15 yo 2008/2024 (64.4%, Spiritori #1, Trinidad, cask #243, 335 bottles)