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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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June 28, 2024 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Glendronach CS-NAS |
It's been a long time since we've done this, at least in this format, but it's still one of our favourites. I'd like to remind you that even though the result often gives the impression that "whisky was better in the past," that's not always the case. We must remember that in the old days, single malts were much rarer, and those that were available had been selected from a wide range of casks, often representing the cream of the crop. This is very different from the current era where, often, everything is offered as single malt and therefore rather "seasoned," "finished," or "reracked" before bottling, rather than being patiently selected from the inventory. In short, you cannot expect a distillery that sells 50% of its production or even 100% as single malt to offer the same quality as when it only offered 1 or 2%. Of course, there are other reasons, but now is not the time to go into them, we don't have all day (come on!) |
Angus measuring the exact ABV of his old
Glendronach, which had been obscured on the
label, using his trusty Anton Paar alcoholmeter. |
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Glendronach ‘Cask Strength’ (58.2%, OB, Batch 12, 2023) 
Batch 11 of this little NAS, boosted with PX and oloroso, was rather good in my view (WF 85). That said, given the state of the market, we seem to be heading towards the end of NAS altogether, if you ask me, with age statements becoming important again... Colour: deep gold. Nose: the sherry is more discreet in this batch, it seems, making everything more elegant, fresh, and fruity, with a lot of preserved apricots and peaches cooked in wine. The black nougat returns in the background, alongside toffee and millionaire shortbread, as well as black tea, like English breakfast. Yes, I know. With water: fully on black tea and equally dark chocolate. Mouth (neat): it seems young, with a much more pronounced sherry thrown over pears and apples. Coffee liqueur, chocolate, brownies, malt extracts, orange liqueur, a bit of woody curry, green walnuts… With water: the water awakens the pepper and amplifies the curry. Overall, the oak is much more upfront. Finish: long but with even more black pepper, as well as juniper and cloves. Comments: it's very good but lacks a bit of harmony for me, the casks are very much at the forefront.
SGP:561 - 83 points. |
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Glendronach (56.02% analysed proof, OB, A Perfect Self Whisky, 1940s) 
A very interesting old Glendronach, naturally 'Most Suitable For Medicinal Purposes'. The traditional ABV of 75° proof was masked, indicating this version was offered at a higher strength, though not specified on the label. Perhaps to save on printing costs. Angus used his Anton Paar electronic hydrometer to determine the exact degree. Colour: gold. Nose: the class of old natural Glendronach, all in delicacy, with plaster, limestone, apples of all sorts, greengages, gooseberries, rhubarb, and a very light touch of peat... In short, a garden from another time, like our grandfathers used to cultivate. With water: little change, except for the appearance of that famous old tweed jacket rinsed by a downpour. A Highland downpour, naturally. Mouth (neat): magnificent, peaty, rather saline, very mineral, with that sooty side found in many malts from that era. It’s all complemented by lemon zest that puts your vertebrae back in place, if you know what I mean. Medicinal purposes indeed. With water: it could be Rosebank! Perfect citrus, slight salinity, clay, and a touch of liquorice. Just perfect. Finish: long, with spices joining the dance but in all elegance. Peppers, notably. Aftertaste again on citrus (grapefruit) and that mineral side. Comments: a perfect old Glendronach, not overwhelmed by loads of sherry. If we’re not going higher than 91, it’s just because I found the nose very slightly behind the sumptuous palate. But what a beauty, this 'self whisky' unearthed by our mate Angus.
SGP:652 - 92 points. |
Hmm, I hear you, the game might have been a bit unbalanced. So, what do you think of this one to round this off? |
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Glendronach 25 yo 1993/2018 (59.3%, OB for The Whisky Barrel, sherry butt, cask #658, 557 bottles) 
I can't quite explain why I hadn't sampled this gem distilled in 1993 before, given its vintage’s reputation and the selector's acclaim. Better late than never, I suppose. Colour: reddish copper. Nose: deeply rooted in sultanas, very ripe damsons, prunes soaked in Armagnac, and a rich wine sauce, akin to grand veneur. One can hardly imagine a more opulent whisky, suggesting a fervent and enthusiastic reracking took place. With water: jammier, with strawberry jam, old fortified red wine, and even muscatel. A hint of wet gravel in the background adds a touch of freshness. Mouth (neat): Nescafé with raisins, crushed pepper, and cloves. More or less. There's a slightly suffocating aspect, but that's the fate of many true sherry monsters. With water: as often, it shifts towards the realm of traditional old Armagnacs (quite different from those we whisky enthusiasts are used to). Loads of raisins, prunes, and of course old cream sherry, not just the kind for elderly English ladies (ha!). Finish: long, very rich, very thick, leaning more towards coffee. Comments: we jest a bit, but truthfully, we're big fans of these famous Glendronach 1993s, which have almost upended the market for heavily sherry-prepped casks. Stronger than paxarette!
SGP: 741 - 89 points. |
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