The return of American whiskies on WF Part Two


December 18, 2024

American Whiskies, Part Two

Wow, that Old Potrero we enjoyed last time was something special! We’re delighted to be having more today. In fact, it turns out there’s far more American whisky in the library than we realised, including a good selection of ryes.

It's not that it's particularly important, but there is
indeed, a small village called Rye in France's Jura,
located between Dole and Lons-le-Saunier.
Perhaps is it a sign, Rye is not that far from WF HQ.

Minor Case (45%, OB, Limestone Branch Distillery Co. Straight Rye Whiskey, +/-2023)

Very strangely, this rye was finished in cream sherry for 6 months after 2 years of regular ageing. It’s supposed to “replicate the pre-prohibition style” of the Beam family, but did they really use to finish their bourbons and ryes in cream sherry before prohibition? I’ll add that this is sourced whiskey, no doubt from MGP in Indiana. So, it’s another non-distilling distillery we’re dealing with here. Let’s move on… Colour: gold. Nose: orange cake, maple syrup, caramel, quite fresh and curiously light. The sherry speeds up the feeling of ageing. Mouth: this is a light rye, probably not 100% or 95% rye. Cinnamon, sawdust, a little green pepper, a touch of bitter orange, and some very ripe grape juice, which you wouldn’t normally find in sherry, but I think it’s good, just rather simple. Finish: the sawdust and cinnamon stand out more, with also a very slight sweet-salty note. Aftertaste a little drying. Comments: nice, but the sherry doesn’t make too much of a mark and as a result, it feels very young. Not much ryeness either.
SGP:551 - 80 points.

We were talking about MGP and Indiana...

Indiana Rye 6 yo 2017/2024 (46%, The Liquid Crew by W.D.C., mashbill 95% rye, cask #32, 294 bottles)

A single barrel of that very famous MGP ‘95% rye’ that’s been feeding so many brands (because it’s good!) Colour: gold. Nose: another world, much fresher and drier, while being spicier and breadier. And more to our liking, no need to say. Bits of metal, banana skins, rye bread, violet sweets, plenty of thyme and rosemary, pine needles, and a drop of tequila… Mouth: sweeter but also spicier, so actually bigger, with quite a lot of pink pepper upfront, then green oranges, lavender sweets, that tiny shot of tequila, fir buds, and citron liqueur. All of that works in sync, while the bready part also joins in. Finish: good length, mainly on oranges and a little ginger cream. The rye bread comes back in the aftertaste (something Swedish, no?) along with a bit of juniper. Comments: it’s excellent while the strength is just perfect.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Rossville ‘Master Crafted Union Rye’ (47%, OB, Straight Rye, +/-2023)

A vatting of 159 barrels blending both MGP’s ‘95% rye’ mashbill and their ‘51% rye’ one. Colour: gold. Nose: it feels a little young but very nice, on bananas, dried flowers, and a few books (paper and cardboard). A bit of peppermint but not much rye, not even bread. It’s a little odd in that sense, but it’s pretty. Orange peel. Mouth: it’s very good, very direct, rather simple. Orange juice and honey with some pepper and juniper. Still that slightly cardboard-like note in the background. Finish: fairly long, fruitier, dominated by oranges and prickly pears. The aftertaste is again more peppery and a bit cardboardy (or on sawdust). Liquorice. Comments: actually, it’s very good, but it suffers a little after the ‘Liquid Crew’, which had far more to tell us.
SGP:651 - 83 points.

Whistlepig ‘The Boss Hog VIII’ (52.4%, OB, LapuLapu’s Pacific, straight rye whiskey, cask #95, 2023)

€550 and a finishing in a Philippine rum barrel – not very coherent, is it? If it’s Don Papa, it’s like replacing a Ferrari’s engine with a small Hyundai (nothing against Hyundai, of course). If it’s Luisita, that’s much better, but sadly, we don’t have that info! In any case, what an idea… Now we just need to know if the rye here is American or Canadian. Colour: full gold. Nose: very soft, inoffensive, fairly elegant, without obvious ‘Don Papa’ notes, more on honey and a tiny roasted Brussels sprout drizzled with honey. Then more and more candied cherries, heaps of candied cherries. With water: the rye side remains very discreet, don’t expect to find even a hint of rye bread. Mouth (neat): the candied cherries hit straight away, followed by banana cream and orange liqueur mixed with Timut pepper and liquid caramel. If it’s Don Papa, this is the best possible use for Don Papa (domestic uses are impossible because it would clog up everything). With water: fruitier with a certain balance. The rye now appears, lavender, poppy seeds, juniper, pumpernickel, lavender… Finish: not very long but lovely, perhaps its best phase, despite the slightly stifling sweetness. Cinnamon liqueur. Comments: much better than I feared, but you have to like sweetness.
SGP:751 - 85 points.

While we're on the topic of the unusual...

Westward ‘Stout Cask’ (46%, OB, single malt, +/-2023)

Empty casks are handed over to friendly Oregon brewers, then filled with Westward malt. A variation that can work – we’ve tasted fun things of this kind in Switzerland with Säntis, but many distilleries have jumped on the bandwagon as everyone tries to expand their ranges. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a LOL-malt, something I really enjoy because ‘it gives you a break’ when you’re tasting a lot. Huge notes of dark chocolate, then aubergines and artichokes, baker’s yeast, roasted malt, and very dark honey. I really like this little monster on the nose, I must admit. Mouth: this works very well, I’m afraid. Still that dark honey (chestnut and manuka, 50/50) and chocolate, along with a very yeasty side I really enjoy and all kinds of roasted nuts – pecans, peanuts, Brazil nuts, almonds… Finish: long, on similar notes with oranges now taking control. Comments: it had been months since I dared to taste this baby, I was procrastinating. One should never procrastinate.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Wyoming Whiskey ‘National Parks No.5’ (52.5%, OB, straight bourbon whiskey, barrel proof, 2024)

I think this is brand new, from Kirby, Wyoming. Nothing to do, I think, with the old ‘Kirby’ whisky brand. This is the first time we’re tasting a ‘Wyoming Whiskey’, and I’ve just seen that it belongs to Edrington (HP, Macallan). There seems to have been quite a bit of brand consolidation in recent years, with diversification efforts popping up all over the place, well it seems. Colour: full gold. Nose: how lovely this is, with the softness of corn but also that very pretty earthy side from the rest of the mashbill. Notes of ‘Belgian’ mandarin liqueur, fresh mushrooms, honeysuckle, a bit of lilac, acacia honey, a touch of cane syrup and agave, then a very pretty hint of parsley… Yes, everything here is very pretty. With water: touches of potting soil and apple peelings. Mouth (neat): soft, slightly sweet, it doesn’t seem to have much rye. The texture is quite light, heading towards roasted hazelnuts and very sweet English tea (not that I’m saying our friends over-sweeten their tea, mind you). With water: it retains a light and sweet backbone, but without any obvious fragility. Finish: a little short. Nougat and cane sugar. Comments: soft and even light, but without any excessive weakness. Must be the corn.
SGP:630 - 84 points.

Tennessee Bourbon Whiskey 11yo 2012/2023 (52.9%, Oxhead Whisky Company & Shelter, barrel, cask #412, 89 bottles)

This should be G. Dickel. Colour: deep gold. Nose: there’s a bit of that typical pineapple from JD (and GD), then a medicinal side reminiscent of Laph (really?), which is very surprising. There’s also a little note of white nougat flavoured with mint – unusual but very pleasant. With water: seawater and inhalation essences. Incredible. Mouth (neat): surprisingly robust, almost Scottish, almost peaty, marked by white fruits, cumin, earth, seaweed… All of this is extremely improbable but very good. With water: and yet, the base is clearly that of a bourbon, with vanilla-coconut and varnish-orange liqueur notes. Finish: similar. Touches of tar. Comments: very surprising, very excellent. As long as there are mysteries like this in our whiskies, all will be well. I know what you’re thinking – I’ll clarify that this baby was fully aged in the USA.
SGP:653 - 88 points.

Hang on, we're going to check something...

Tennessee Sour Mash Bourbon 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.1%, Whiskey Sponge, Decadent Drinks)

Definitely George Dickel, aged 3 years in the US and 5 years in Scotland. 75% maize, 21% rye, 4% malt and 100% fun. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s almost like Grand Marnier aged in wood (Cuvée du Centenaire), with sandalwood, incense, patchouli, and a packet of bidis. You’d almost put Joan Baez on the stereo, if it weren’t for the gingerbread notes that appear next (why that?). With water: that typical earthy side now comes through. A touch of tobacco. Mouth (neat): not a gram of peat, but a lovely combination of honey, maple syrup, woodruff, cognac, juniper, and cloves. It remains soft overall, with the orange liqueur leading this charming little herd. With water: it’s truly excellent, though the structure stays a bit light. Virtually no malt, you see. Finish: of medium length, gentle, but a touch of star anise sneaks in among the citrus notes. Comments: top of the basket.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Sour mash? Just ask... By the way, in case you’re new, sour mash isn’t actually 'sour'.

Tennessee Sour Mash 18 yo 2003/2021 (50.8%, Wu Dram Clan & Kirsch Import, single barrel, cask #12, 156 bottles)

This could only be George Dickel, and of a beautiful age, no less. Colour: full gold. Nose: a perfect demonstration of time’s effect, as the base is strictly identical to the Sponge’s, except it’s rounded out, with myriads of small citrus fruits this time, and less of the bidi side. In other words, the ten extra years have reduced the impact of the wood (not the other way around) and broken down the incense and gingerbread notes into countless micro-aromas from the same universe. What we call here a ‘fractal’ evolution. With water: sublime blood oranges. Mouth (neat): closer to the 8-year-old, rawer, on honey, maple syrup, and spices. With water: oh, it’s beautiful, on caraway, old Cuban aguardiente, and even a touch of old cachaça. I swear. Finish: long, with magnificent spices and mead fit for the Greek gods – well yes, that’s what they were drinking on Mount Olympus. Comments: same very high level as the Sponge, with ten extra years. Do ten years deserve two more points? Of course they do.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Let’s get back to rye…

Willett 7 yo ‘Family Estate Rye’ (54%, OB, for LMDW, Straight Rye Whiskey, Single Barrel, cask #22612, 2024)

74% rye in here, that’s going to be a change. Colour: full gold. Nose: the rise in power of the ‘new’ Willett. We find complexity, precious breads, citrus fruits, soft lavender, that ‘almost’ soapy side, juniper, coriander, Thai basil, mustard seed bread… Such complexity if you take the time to listen. With water: a touch of papier-mâché, otherwise the same, and all the better for it. Mouth (neat): by Zeus! Melon, peaches, citron, olive oil, and heather honey. It’s masterful, I’m afraid. With water: again, unchanged, the water adds nothing but a few sultanas that appear out of nowhere. Finish: long and almost thick. Candied kumquats and dried apricots. Comments: 90.49999 points, but Dura Lex, sed Lex.
SGP:641 - 90 points.

As they say, rye is (perhaps) the future of malt. Right, one last one, then we’ll do a third and final American session next time.

Old Potrero 8 yo 2015/2024 ‘Burning Daylight’ (65.6%, Ex-Libris, LMDW, rye)

Let the Californian whisky speak. Indeed, that’s better. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s monstrous, it has everything. But if I had to use only three descriptors, I’d say 1. Bergamot, 2. Vineyard peach, 3. Fresh fig, and 4. (we do what we like, it’s our ‘blog’) white clover honey. Sublime nose. With water: superb woody spices. Pinecones, high-end plywood, spruce, thuja… Mouth (neat): sweet Vishnu and holy featherless crow! Imagine a rush of olives, oysters, menthol tobacco, and a triple avalanche of smaller flavours. This whisky isn’t human (no joke, S.) With water: exotic fruits roll in, mango in the lead. Curiously, it reduces the interest ever so slightly. Just a tiny bit. Finish: long, balanced, fresh, fruity, and spicy. The coriander comes back at the very, very end. Comments: we brushed against 92 points. When’s the next Air France flight to San Francisco?
SGP:751 - 91 points.

I think that in our third and final US session (for 2024), there’ll be more Old Potrero – and plenty of Willett. See you soon.

Check the index of all American whiskies we've tasted so far