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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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August 23, 2024 |
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The return of three Speyburn on little Whiskyfun
Yes, it's an event, almost on par with the possible return of Stromness or Malt Mill. I'm hardly exaggerating. We'll start with a rum finish, though we can no longer escape these little no-age-statement premixes anyway, I mean globally. Don't worry, we'll get through it quickly, like ripping off a plaster... |
Speyburn Distillery (Speyburn Distillery) |
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Speyburn ‘Rum Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, +/-2024) 
Colour: gold. Nose: ginger, speculoos, caramel, and a hint of masala. It edges closer to a small American rye than a traditional Scottish malt, which makes it all the more intriguing. The palate, as always, will be the decider. Mouth: it's well-crafted, to be fair, just a touch weak due to the low ABV. Lovely honeyed notes, with cane syrup, maple syrup, triple sec, nutmeg, and sweet paprika all making an appearance. Finish: much the same, pleasantly fruity with oranges and soft spices, though it does lack a bit of punch. Comments: to be honest, this is far from the worst rum finish we’ve ever had to discreetly discard. Quite the contrary, the technique seems rather spot-on. I must say, the honeyed aspect is excellent.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
Will this return of Speyburn be sensational? |
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Speyburn 16 yo (43%, OB, travel exclusive, bourbon barrel, +/- 2022)
The term ‘travel exclusive’ or ‘travel retail’ has somewhat become a red flag in recent years across the spirits industry (30% more in price instead of 30% less), but on the other hand, this version of Speyburn is a full maturation in bourbon barrels. You can't have it all, can you? Colour: light gold. Nose: lovely malt, charming wax, delightful paraffin, pretty vanilla, ripe bananas, and slightly bruised apples... All of this is complemented by subtle touches of mustard and watercress, adding some aromatic depth. So, all is well at this stage. Mouth: the watercress is back—we’re big fans of watercress—and there's a generally elegant form of austere bitterness that blends nicely with lemon zest and a hint of gentle horseradish. We’re far from a fruity and flattering bourbon barrel here, but it’s classy. Finish: long, bitter, even acidic, with grape seeds and apple peel. The mustard and pepper come back to tickle you at the very end, with even a hint of ashes. Comments: a surprising style to say the least, the exact opposite of the very seductive ‘Rum Cask’. It takes all sorts to make a world, even at Speyburn.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
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Speyburn 2004/2024 ‘Spirit of Speyside Exclusive’ (58.6%, OB, cask #215, 546 bottles) 
Could we please stop with the gold and silver labels? They no longer work at all online, not even on those very ‘low-tech-low-graphics’ sites like WF. Colour: dark amber. Nose: a distinctly chocolaty and slightly soapy character, heavily marked by paraffin and, let’s be honest, a touch of shampoo. It’s a hit or miss, as they say; water will be the ultimate judge. With water: the shampoo fades away (as expected), but the chocolate becomes even more pronounced. We’re practically inside a chocolate shop now. Mouth (neat): pretty woody, with strong notes of resin, fir bud syrup, walnut husk, bitter oranges, and menthol… Water is definitely needed here. With water: softer, of course, but still quite marked by bitterness, amaro, cinchona, and all that. I like those things rather a lot, but I’m not sure I need a 20-year-old Scotch malt to appreciate these flavours. Finish: long. Wood, resins, chocolate, bitters, and green walnuts. Comments: spectacular in terms of style, but I’m much more a fan of the ‘Rum’ and the ‘16’. Maybe a tad over-oloroso-ed.
SGP:371 - 80 points. |
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