Three Glenfarclas, one OB, one secret, one IB


August 28, 2024

Three Glenfarclas,
one OB, one secret, one IB

Glenfarclas whiskies have never struck us as particularly summery, but still, it's hard to go several months without tasting them. For years now, they've provided us with plenty of laughs thanks to the ‘secret’ releases from independent bottlers, often sprinkled with more or less hidden clues about their origin.

Of course, these days, as so many other distilleries have also adopted this miserable and, to my mind, rather demeaning practice of prohibiting the display of the origin, ‘The Best Malt There Is in Speyside’ no longer means anything. It’s a bit of a shame, because these days, across Scotland, we find ‘secret’ expressions that are sometimes far superior in quality (though not in price) to those proudly bearing the distillery's name. It’s quite ironic, really. Come on, let’s have, say, three little GFs...

Glenfarclas 2013/2023 (59.8%, OB for The Taste of Whisky 10th Anniversary, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #768, 290 bottles)

Some whisky for lovely Poland, what could go wrong? Colour: pale amber. Nose: one of those youthful sherry casks that come with touches of young bourbon, surrounded by varnish and fresh vanilla, which then evolves into walnut wine, toffee, metal polish, sour cherries, potpourri, hawthorn, and Aperol. With water: chocolate, pipe tobacco, and new leather. Mouth (neat): it's powerful, bringing back that rather peppery and caramelised style reminiscent of certain vintages when they reached this age, the 1989s, the 1990s... And, while we're at it, let's mention three big boxes of Mon Chéri chocolates. With water: an unexpected saline touch joins the cracked pepper and chilli chocolate. That, my friends, is excellent. Finish: the sour cherries make a grand return, lingering for quite a while. Add three more boxes of Mon Chéri and a dash of black pepper in the aftertaste. There's also marmalade, which balances the whole affair. Comments: a rather lovely little beast, quite fascinating, and it reveals itself to be more complex than it first appears.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Censored Speyside Distillery 16 yo ‘Adventures in the Meadow’ (54.7%, Brave New Spirits, The WhiskyHeroes, bourbon hogshead, 308 bottles, 2024)

Right. Colour: white wine. Nose: it's rather immaculate. White tea box, peanut oil, hay, vanilla, mandarins, blood oranges. With water: not many changes, though you do get a few fresh mint leaves and a touch of lemon balm mingling with fresh barley. I find it very elegant. Mouth (neat): all sorts of citrus liqueurs and sweets, and above all, a heap of raw carrots. I do love carrots. Just a hint of celery stalk as well. With water: the rooty side comes out more, with ginseng, radish, carrot, even beetroot. Perhaps the finest vegetable soup of the moment, ha. Finish: lemon returns to add a bit of zing, particularly towards the end. Comments: incredibly different from the ‘sherry’ and yet of the same very high quality. Both are very interesting malts.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Perhaps an old glory as #3…

Glenfarclas 24 yo 1969/2010 (58.2%, Signatory Vintage, sherry, cask #67, 350 bottles)

Glenfarclas 24 yo 1969/1993 (58.2%, Signatory Vintage, sherry, cask #67, 350 bottles)

I have tried several 1968s but only one 1969 within the official family jewels, perhaps a tad disappointing given the pedigree (WF 87), but that was in 2007, as it was just coming out. Signatory’s 1969 #52-54 was excellent but not utterly stellar either in my book (WF 88). Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re never extremely far from a little gunpowder with these, but on the other hand, these white truffles and the kilotons of precious raisins and hectolitres of high-end sweet wines are just magical. No worries, I won’t list them, but shall add some dark honeys for good measure. With water: moderate meatiness, a touch of mouldiness, and just an old Sauternes from a great vintage, 1967, 1988… Mouth (neat): it’s like a very old sweet Madeira now, a Bual like the one we tasted the other day in Scotland. The usual walnuts are there, but also honey-soy glazed pecans. An absolute killer – I mean those honey-soy pecans. This GF isn’t bad either. With water: a very slight soapy/gin note once water is added. I think water is unnecessary. It also becomes much drier, a tad too bitter and woody. Finish: rather long with plenty of chocolate-covered raisins. Comments: you must always add your water drop by drop with these old whiskies, so you don’t break them. It’s a double-edged sword, and when in doubt, abstain, if I may say so.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

(Thank you, KC)

Check the index of all Glenfarclas we've tasted so far