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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 9, 2024 |
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Three stages of Glen Grant down to 1958
(or Christmas in April)
Glen Grant remains one of the world's greatest Scottish malts (pff), and many of us believe that not so long ago, it was the number one in terms of quality. One only needs to try those little 5-year-olds from the 60s or 70s that used to cost next to nothing. In any case, today we're going to taste three styles that are probably quite distinct. |
George Urquhart - Mr George.
(Gordon & MacPhail) |
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Glen Grant 15 yo 2008/2023 (60.3%, Whikynavi, first fill oloroso hogshead, cask #716721, 150 bottles) 
A small independent bottler from South Korea, incredibly close (you can't get closer) to the wonderful Kimchangsoo pocket-distillery. The very "Christmas" label proves, once again, that we're often way behind schedule. Imagine, we still have whiskies from the last Black Friday to taste. It's embarrassing. Colour: dark amber. Nose: pure oloroso, flint, truffles, very dark chocolate, 'maduro' cigars and walnut wine, beef broth, marrow, leeks... All of this works seamlessly, which is extremely classic. With water: this could be served as a sauce with dim sum, Korean BBQ, or even sushi. Superb notes of freshly roasted coffee. Mouth (neat): excellent salty sherry, liquorice, and indeed it's full of beef broth, teriyaki, black pepper, bitter chocolate... But at this strength, one must be very careful. With water: rounder but also more peppery. Dates, tar, very thick molasses, very old cream sherry (VORS), cloves, very strong coffee (ristretto)... Finish: very long, peppery, chocolatey, always with candied dates. Salted and burnt beef is back in the aftertaste. Comments: what an adventure! If this isn't a sherry monster, I don't know what is. We love this admirably quaint extreme side.
SGP:472 - 89 points. |
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Glen Grant 25 yo 1998/2023 (48.7%, Acla Selection, 10th Anniversary Series, refill sherry butt, cask #13223)
More old-schoolness with a wonderful stag on the label. Colour: white wine. Nose: It's also a sherry, but it's the exact opposite of the 15-year-old, with much more fruity freshness, chalky and herbaceous touches... It really reminds one of some old official releases or very pale versions from G&M's that were wonderfully mineral, even slightly metallic. Rhubarb, not quite ripe plums, apples and pears, with a bit of barley sugar to round it all off... Mouth: for a refill, it's really very 'refill'. Primarily apple, apple, and more apple, plus a bit of slate, fennel, pastis, beeswax, battelman and rock candy... All this is elegant, a little shy, discreet, and smart. Not to be overlooked. Finish: medium length, malty, with just as much apple. Comments: I had chosen it for a 'masterclass' (just a cool group tasting, that's all) that I led in Zurich, and I don't regret it. I hadn't yet published a note.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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With a thought for Ian Urquhart...
Glen Grant 1958/2023 'Mr George Legacy Fourth Edition' (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, first fill sherry butt, cask #3818, 376 bottles) 
No need for a Bentley, an Aston-Martin, or a McLaren here to underscore the class of such a bottle. The entire 'Mr George Urquhart Legacy' series is simply wonderful. I also find it fabulous that they do not hesitate to have them tasted; on the other hand, unlike some distilleries, they know that these whiskies are sublime – because they generally are. Let's see if this law holds true here... Colour: red amber. Nose: oh how I love these notes of spruce, thuja wood, green liquorice, mentholated tobacco, essential oils of thyme and rosemary, then sultanas, dried figs, chestnut honey, grilled chestnuts... This nose is simply splendid, believe me. And we haven't even added water yet. |
With water: an incredible resinous side, without ever the slightest acrid touch as can be found in very old casks. Admirable. Mouth (neat): utterly superlative. The smoky and even terpenic notes are back, as are the sundried grapes, the dried figs we adore so much, the honeys, the waxes, the tobaccos, the dried fruits in general, the touches of incense and sandalwood... It's splendid. With water: but yes! To be honest, with very old whiskies, we tend to forgive certain small faults but here, there is strictly nothing to forgive, everything is just perfect. You just have to like liquorice, resinous sap, figs, oranges, and all kinds of roasted nuts, peanuts, almonds, pecans, hazelnuts, walnuts... Finish: very long, always incredibly balanced. A hint of vegetal tar in the aftertaste. Comments: sixty-five years old, just that. Incredible, even if for a cognac or armagnac house, it's almost a baby (I'm exaggerating again).
SGP:572 – 95 points. |
For a final treat, here's the update on the Glen Grants from 'Mr George' for now:
The 1953/2021, 94 points
The 1956/2019, 93 points
The 1957/2021, 92 points
The 1958/2023, 95 points
The 1959/2023, 93 points
(I'm counting five and not four, but I might be a bit off the mark or overenthusiastic…) |
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