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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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January 2, 2024 |
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The New Time Warp Sessions, Today a few American whiskies |
I'm afraid we're not tasting enough American bourbons and whiskies. It's almost as if the rest of the world, including countries with the most recent whisky traditions like African countries or Asian ones excluding Japan or India, are more connected to Europe. It's rather odd; I even have the impression that we used to see more bourbons around, at least in terms of volume if not in the number of different types available, twenty or more years ago. But I could be wrong, and I'd like to be wrong. And no doubt our dear American friends consume far more of their own produce now than back when you could still come across entire shop windows decked out in the colours of Jack Daniel's here. |
Magazine ad for I.W. Harper, early 1970s.
When lightness was all the rage.
We shall try an I.W. Harper from that era today. |
We are, by the way, going to sample two old bourbons that were imported into France a long time ago, but before that, let's try a few much newer ones, selected somewhat at random... |
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Indiana Rye Whiskey 5 yo 2007/2023 (55%, Cadenhead, World Whiskies, Individual Cask, barrel, 222 bottles)
From an undisclosed distillery but it should be MGP, a large company that produces and sells rye whisky to a wide range of brands such as Bulleit, High West, Templeton, James E. Pepper, Dickel, Smooth Ambler, Redemption or Widow Jane, to name but a few, not to mention MGP's own brands, such as Remus. Many believe that it's better to buy a good rye from MGP than to make a poor one oneself, and I have to say it's hard not to agree. Colour: gold. Nose: it's quite dry at first, rather on husk, flour, shortbread, semolina and polenta, pancakes… I'd say the ryeness remains discreet this far. With water: whiffs of dried coconut and metal polish, plus the expected rye bread. I'm not finding any lavender/violets/cologne. A little gingerbread, though, a growing rootiness too (celeriac). Mouth (neat): sweet, spicy (bags of juniper and coriander seeds), with some ginger and rather a lot of 'sweet varnish'. Glue. I find it raw and a little brutal but I'm not sure it was meant to be quaffed neat in the first place. With water: more genever, plus indeed lavender this time. Shall we call this an acquired taste? Finish: long, with notes of glue again. Some unexpected maltiness in the aftertaste, with also pears, oranges and lemon drops. Comments: I think either it's too young or it's too old, but I still rather like this eau-de-vie-ish style. I almost wrote 'gin'.
SGP:631 - 79 points. |
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Westland 2014/2023 (53%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, The Pioneers, Single Malt, Madeira finish, cask #6235, 207 bottles)
We've already had a wonderful cognac by the house Pasquet in this smart new series by BB&R. Colour: dark amber. Nose: a lot of wood spices, pipe tobacco, prunes, bitter oranges, varnish, metal polish, black raisins, and even touches of folle blanche. Really. Now you do feel that water would unleash quite a few more aromas… With water: a little more moss, juniper again, chocolate, earth, pine needles, a feeling of oloroso (must be the Madeira) or amontillado… Mouth (neat): big chocolaty and praline-led oak, this is almost distilled Nu***la at cask strength. Then mole sauce, curries, fruitcake, paprika, nutmeg, coriander seeds… With water: just great now. Great chocolate, oranges and many spices, coriander seeds, cardamom, cloves, pepper, juniper… Some earthy honey too. Finish: long, on similar flavours. More fruits then (citrus, prickly pears, medlars) and honeyed biscuit. Comments: I don't think I would have said 'America' but that's not what's important. Very fond of this Westland, unsurprisingly, even if I tend to enjoy the 'natural', a.k.a. unfinished ones even better.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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WhistlePig 10 yo (55%, OB, Single Barrel Rye, La Maison du Whisky, New Vibrations, cask #177026, 2023)
We're in Vermont this time, with a very high rye-content mashbill (96%). Whistle Pig started with some rye sourced in Canada, then kicked-off their own stills in Vermont in 2015. Which means that since this baby's 10 years old, it is actually Canadian rye whisky (from Alberta). Afterall, it is the same continent. Colour: deep gold. Nose: back to polenta, lavender, juniper, gorse, then shortbread, scones, unleavened bread and a little liquorice. And vanilla. With water: oh very nice, some custard tarte with grated zests and meringue. Mouth (neat): sweeter, playful, easy, full of violet (liqueur), tangerines, mangos, custard, juniper, fennel seed bread, caraway… Oily mouthfeel. With water: more sipcy ryeness, nutmeg, saffron, pink peppers, tangerines yet again, papayas, blood oranges. A few sour apples are brining balance. Finish: medium, pretty much on oranges and grapefruits, with some cocoa powder in the aftertaste, as well as the expected notes of lavender. Drops of heavier IPA too. Comments: a rather buoyant, extravagant, well-aged, sweet North American rye.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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George Dickel X Leopold Bros. Rye (50%, OB, blended rye, 2022)
A blend of ex-column rye from G. Dickel's with some ex-Vendome three-chamber-still rye from Leopold Bros. in Denver, Colorado. This kind of collaboration is said to be rather innovative but don't our friends the Scots do this all the time? Well, indeed, except for a few trials by, for example, Douglas Laing it's uncommon that the makers would be disclosed like this. But big boy + small craft is smart, imagine Talisker X Dornoch, for example… Anyway… Colour: gold. Nose: buttercream, shortbread, sweet maize, chocolate, wholegrain bread, limoncello and sweet malt ala easy Lowlands... Touches of cinnamon and incense. With water: gets breadier. Pumpernickel. Mouth (neat): like this a lot, you would believe it's a 'single'. Awesome citrus all around and everywhere. Curd, syrup, creams, marmalades… Superb zesty spiciness coating it all. With water: just love it, and it would take water well. Awesome spices. Finish: long, with more or less the same profile, which is good news. Comments: frankly, I didn't care much for the nose, but I just adored the tart yet creamy palate. I'll have to try to get me some Leopold Bros. stuff in 2024.
SGP:751 - 87 points. |
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Willett 6 yo (64.7%, OB, Family Estate, Kentucky Straight Bourbon, LMDW Selection, cask #22513, 173 bottles, 2023)
I remember that the first, older Willett bourbons I had the chance to taste really blew me away. 'New' Willett is anything distilled after the reopening, in 2012, so indeed this is 'New' Willett. Colour: amber. Nose: roasted nuts aplenty, pancake sauce, maple syrup… Not much else I'm afraid but this is normal at roughly 65% vol. With water: a little earthy varnish, a little candlewax, coconut, vanilla, stewed celeriac (very impressive), then cedarwood and cinnamon. Mouth (neat but with caution): big oranges, camphor, eucalyptus and sweeter peppers. And a lot of ethanol. With water: sweet peppers, cinchona, ginger tonic, bitter oranges, a pinhead of horseradish, then more and more kumquats sprinkled with ginger liqueur.. Finish: long, with oranges taking over again. Triple-sec, candied ginger and a little pine resin in the end. Feels like there's quite some rye. Comments: it's not that easy to get these at the right drinking strength (That's why they let you do the job yourself, hehehe) but what's sure is that, even if they got rather simpler, these Willetts remain very beautiful bourbons.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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I.W. Harper 6 yo (43 G.L., OB, Kentucky Bourbon, Import Carmona Paris, circa 1970)
A Kentucky bourbon brand that was really quite rare in France when this magnificent decanter was imported in the 1970s. It is worth noting the use of old Gay-Lussac degrees on the label. Colour: amber. Nose: very brioche-like, not tired at all, marked by fudge and, of course, maple syrup. Delicate menthol notes quickly add to the mix, while the traditional coconut and vanilla notes have now perfectly melded into a whole that also exhales some almost malty and earthy touches. There is also a floral side that evokes mullein and woodruff. A very delicate bourbon. Mouth: not tired at all, the palate displays peanut butter and roasted hazelnuts, brown sugar, old Sauternes that has digested its sugars, and dark chocolate. Some notes of cappuccino and a small cup of chicory coffee complete the journey of this kind old and elegant bourbon that has tenderly crossed the decades. We are far from any very rock and roll bourbons. Finish: we were expecting them, here are some hints of coconut and sweet grilled corn on the barbecue. Comment: a tender bourbon to be savoured while watching an old John Ford or Alfred Hitchcock film. One almost expects to find Cary Grant or Gregory Peck enjoying the same bourbon as us.
SGP: 531 - 85 points |
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Evan Williams 23 yo (53.5%, OB, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, SNPA Import France, +/-1995)
Evan Williams has remained a very active brand of Heaven Hill to this day, but I think the 23-year-olds with their blue labels are very rare, although a few bottles were still produced about a dozen years ago. This old bottle was imported to France about thirty years ago. Colour: dark gold. Nose: very modern, powerful, filled with old varnish, forgotten paint pots, linoleum, broom, espresso... Chocolate truffles add a bit of sweetness to this aromatic monster that hasn't aged a bit over the years, quite the contrary. A very, very great bourbon that reminds in some ways the nose of the Very Old Fitzgeralds. As often happens, a few drops of water bring out a mentholated side. Mouth: even more powerful on the palate, but with some sweeter notes, like English candy, for example. However, we are far from the gentle elegance of IW Harper; this Evan Williams is a real cowboy. It reminds one a bit of wood glue, liquorice, and even burnt wood and tobacco. Water further enhances the liquorice aspect and adds touches of anise. Finish: long, almost a bit brutal, but very seductive, with salted butter caramel. Varnish, coffee, liquorice, and anise return in the aftertaste. Comment: under these conditions, we are willing to be a bit brutalized by our whiskey. Perhaps around a campfire somewhere in its native Kentucky.
SGP: 661 - 88 points |
(Merci Edouard, le Golden Promise et Whisky Magazine France) |
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