Today evil spicy Pulteneys


June 24, 2024

WF's Little Duos, today evil spicy Pulteneys

The next best thing after Clynelish when you sail up north. And I have the feeling that they've upped their game recently, with less straight American oak in the way. Unless I'm dreaming…

By the way, a little tip for our beginner friends: Pulteney or Fettercairn, for example, are the same malts/distilleries as Old Pulteney or Old Fettercairn. There isn't an old distillery and a new distillery, as can be the case with many brands that haven't changed their name, like Macallan or now Port Ellen. And it's the same for prefixes like 'Royal': Brackla is the same as Royal Brackla, and Lochnagar is the same as Royal Lochnagar. There isn't a monarchist version and a republican version. And we're not talking about old distilleries that used several names, like Glenesk/Hillside, or St. Magdalene/Linlithgow. And we're not even talking about trade names… But no, not at all, the world of Scotch whisky isn't complicated…

Pulteney 14 yo 2008/2022 (55.9%, Signatory Vintage, China, fresh sherry butt finish, cask #7, 666 bottles)

Six hundred and sixty-six bottles, this Pulteney must be devilish. There seem to be more and more independent bottlers in PRC, which is splendid. One might anticipate a finish in a top-tier baijiu cask one day. Or why not Moutai? Oh, you say that already exists? Colour: deep gold. Nose: it begins with hints of basalt, laterite, and gunpowder, but always in a gentle manner, never would we describe this as 'sulphuric'. Then come notes of walnut wine, toasted pecans, slate, a bit of miso, and maritime hints of salty air, with whiffs of rubber boots as well. With water: it turns very fermentary. Dough, mash, and then the walnuts return. Mouth (neat): powerful and very meaty and spicy, with lots of pepper tingling your tongue. It's amusing how one can find flavours from the country of import, here perhaps southern cuisine (sorry for being so vague). Chilli and fruit wine. With water: it softens, with sultanas coming through, but the heart remains spicy. Finish: long, peppery but also more fruity. The pepper and chilli continue to linger in the aftertaste. Comments: I don't know if it was intentional, but I think it would be brilliant if an importer selected cask that correspond to the gastronomic culture of their country. And we're not just talking about big sherry vs. no sherry and peat vs. no peat. Unusual and very nice!
SGP:573 - 87 points.

Alright, to verify our theory, we'll stay in the region (in the broadest sense)...

Old Pulteney 17 yo 2006/2023 (59.7%, The Spirits Hunter for HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #84, 277 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: this is taut as a bow string, all about lemon and seawater. In this sense, it's very close to the OBs that have managed to shed the coating of sawdust, vanilla, and coconut that were coating some releases from a few years ago. In short, it's 100% my style. And I love those little notes of fresh mint and dill that tickle the nostrils. With water: chalk, clay, and crushed slate, plus oyster shells and lemon zest. A hint of wakame in the background. Mouth (neat): very fruity (lemon, green apple) and ultimately quite peppery as well; my theory might hold after all. Plenty of green pepper and salt, beyond the 'white wine for oysters' side. With water: still spicy. Let's say a dish of oysters and prawns with lemon and chilli. That must exist, right? Finish: very long, still on those same salty, peppery, spicy, and lemony flavours. Comments: chilli pepper that takes the place of peat, I love it.
SGP: 562 - 87 points.

When you come across several spirits like this, each displaying a pronounced bitter, acidic, or spicy note, it's essential to test yourself using a benchmark malt to check if it's not just the taster's palate that's temporarily -hopefully- altered. Many of us experienced this during Covid. Anyway, HP 12 reassures me that I'm fine in this regard, phew, it really was the Pulteney whiskies that were distinctly spicy.

Check the index of all Pulteney we've tasted so far