Two 10 yo Glen Spey


March 15, 2024

WF's little Duos, two 10 yo Glen Spey

Among the lesser-known distilleries that we adore tasting is Glen Spey, which used to belong to the Gilbey's firm, and whose barrels, most more or less young, pop up here and there from time to time at some independent bottlers. We hope to reach 100 Glen Spey before the end of this decade – we're currently at 78. We should make it…

(Colin Smith, geograph.org.uk)

Glen Spey 10 yo 2013/2023 (50.2%, Dalgety, Super Porto and refill ruby Port, casks #802485 + 802030)

Let's remember that Glen Spey is meant to produce a light malt, thanks to purifiers that increase the reflux. I believe it is, indeed, the main malt of J&B, one of the epitomes of light Scotch whiskies. Now it seems that this youngster is as much about Port as it is about malt whisky, which can be fun, especially since I get the impression that independent bottlers are getting better and better at balancing these kinds of acrobatic flavourings... Colour: rosé from Provence or partridge eye. Ha. Nose: very focused on bell pepper and blackcurrant bud, as well as tomato leaves, fig leaves and peach leaves. Raspberry butter cream comes in at a later stage. With water: still a lot of leaves, with the addition of bay leaves and freshly cut grass. Mouth (neat): there's really a kind of blend between three elements, on one hand the red fruits, on the other all kinds of peppers and bell peppers, and finally malted brioche. With water: morello cherries come to the fore, this is the stage where it's closest to a very fruity Port. Finish: medium length, on raspberry and cherry muffins. Even more red fruits in the aftertaste. Comments: we're venturing outside the realm of 'pure' whisky, as the colour already suggested. In the end, it's certainly not quite to my taste, but I won't deny that the exercise has been carried out with seriousness and I think that this Portuguese Glen Spey should really please fans of rather winey malts.
SGP:661 - 81 points.

Let's get closer to the distillate…

Glen Spey 10 yo 2008/2019 (55.9%, Mossburn, hogshead, batch #10.0408.27)

Colour: white wine. Nose: It's quite fresh, not overly demonstrative, with vanilla, freshly cut grass, brioche dough, grist, fresh barley... In short, a very honest and unpretentious Glen Spey. With water: it stays on the same track. There's also porridge (with a nip of whisky, as it should be). Mouth (neat): I like it, there's a bit of varnish, not entirely ripe cherries, and more simply kirsch. You would swear that you can taste the cherries' stones, as in any good kirsch. With water: the fruitiness really comes out, with orange liqueur this time, but some cherry liqueur is not far behind. Not a malt that tries to dominate you, and that's just fine. Finish: medium length, balanced, with a very nice slightly herbaceous fruitiness. And guess what in the aftertaste? Cherry and kirsch. Comments: let's not overdo it, this isn't Brora 1972, but this Glen Spey is completely loyal, honest, and merchandisable, as they used to say (were they?)
SGP:541 - 84 points.

I'm not sure if the owners are still producing the Flora & Fauna; I'll check that out for next time…

Check the index of all Glen Spey we've tasted so far