Two Opposing Deanstons


November 20, 2024

Two Opposing Deanstons

Deanston has been quite entertaining lately, with their ultra-creative (and sometimes improbable) finishes. We're eagerly awaiting the cod liver oil finish, but in the meantime, we'll be tasting two small independent releases. We do enjoy tasting Deanston, in just any case.

Deanston 11 yo ‘The Devil’s Bunghole Edition 001’ (50.1%, Naughty Fun, D&M Winchester, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #900258, 2024)

With official tasting notes such as ‘Clyde estuary water’, ‘William Wallace’s inescapable musk’, or ‘Not sh*te’, it’s clear that a) this is not an official bottling, b) nobody here is taking themselves too seriously, c) commercial ambitions are modest, and d) the whole concept was likely put together on a Friday night after a bit of pub crawling. We can only approve, especially since the ‘Edition 001’ label still exudes a certain swagger. Colour: amber. Nose: they’ve certainly pushed the envelope, so to speak, but surprisingly, it’s really not that bad—in fact, quite the opposite. The oloroso comes through with an almost graceful touch, without any hints of gas, rotten egg, aged truffle, or leek and cabbage soup, nor the scent of a rugby locker room post third half. It’s almost misleading advertising, wouldn’t you say? (we can joke too, ha-ha). In any case, a lovely oloroso profile with nuts, praline, tobacco, and coffee, along with a touch of liquorice wood—admittedly a bit excessive—and most notably, a cedar box of fifty large Cuban cigars. The kind the devil himself might smoke. With water: more cracked black pepper and bitter chocolate, but still no truly diabolical aromas. Mouth (neat): lots of walnut and tobacco, a bit over the top but surely appealing to many aficionados. Spicy marmalade, a saline touch, soy sauce, and a hint of leather. With water: excellent, by Beelzebub! Pepper, tobacco, juniper, and bitter almonds. Finish: long, fruitier with blood orange and a touch of Campari, then more pepper. That Campari note—now that’s devilish. Comments: an absolute scandal. Usually, whiskies are much worse than their tasting notes on the label suggest, but here, it’s quite the reverse. I’ll be seeing my lawyer first thing tomorrow morning about this; unless, of course, he’s already on the golf course. On a Thursday. As usual.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Right, some ex-bourbon to recover...

Deanston 12 yo 2011/2023 (59.9%, A.D. Rattray, bourbon barrel, cask #800049, 208 bottles)

Well, here we have quite the opposite indeed, or so it seems… Colour: white wine. Nose: always a pleasure to confirm that Deanston shines at its natural best, unadorned and unaltered. Delightful notes of peanut oil, green apple juice, honeysuckle, and jasmine, with a touch of gooseberry. It feels nicely textured while remaining fresh, cheerful, and invigorating. With water: turns slightly cloudy, releasing paraffin, candle wax, and a hint of fresh coriander, mercifully without soapiness. Mouth (neat): crisp, taut, fruity, impeccable. Truly spot on, with green apple juice, melon, and lemon, spiced with pepper, liquorice, and nutmeg, plus a hint of wild thyme (softer than common thyme) and dill. With water: waxiness re-emerges, accompanied by white pepper and coriander seed. Lovely mouthfeel, though it sacrifices a touch of its fruitiness when diluted (alas, we cannot linger as long as one might wish when reducing our drams). Finish: long, with a return of lemon and green apples. Splendid. Comments: thrilled to have found the perfect counterpoint to the Devil’s own Deanston. Loved both the same, in the end.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Deanston we've tasted so far