Two artistic extremes of Glenturret


September 12, 2024

WF's Little Duos, two
artistic extremes of Glenturret

The Jaguar Type C lightweight at Le Mans in 1953 (24 Heures du Mans)

Let's say a young peated whisky – the peated ones, known as Ruadh Mhòr, are generally very successful IMHO – and the latest Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours’. Overall, it must be said that among the current old Scottish wonders, some of the ‘decanters’ are a bit like a modern Lamborghini, you’d be keen to try it, but probably wouldn’t want to be seen driving it. That’s not the case with this Glenturret ‘1953’, with its elegant bottle, naturally signed by owners Lalique. But let’s start with a young peated one, as Glenturret doesn’t really have any old peated whiskies...

Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2010/2021 (52.6%, WhiskyJace, Art Edition, 1st fill sherry cask)

Gorgeous label! But peat and sherry together, well, one must tread carefully—it can be magic, or it can be... not. Colour: gold. Nose: smoky and highly medicinal, almost like a pharmacy. A bit like aspirin dissolved in water, followed by a squeeze of lemon and a bold, lively smoke. The sherry is playing it shy so far. With water: here comes that long-anticipated wet chalk. Mouth (neat): lovely, sharp, citrusy, and vibrant. You’d think it was a fino cask, if it really was first fill. There’s a hint of mezcal here, reminiscent of the peated Glenturrets we’ve encountered before. Mezcal and green apple. With water: easy on the water now, mind. The medicinal side comes back, along with hints of a certain Islay distillery whose name begins with an L but doesn’t end in ‘lin’. Very, very pretty, with the sherry still keeping a low profile—or perhaps it’s perfectly integrated. Finish: long, precise, utterly classic. Lemon, apple, smoke, chalk, and so on. Comments: a delightful young peater. I reckon we might just have another peated dram before grabbing a coffee, then a large glass of Perrier, followed by a large glass of Vittel (Nestlé, where’s the cheque?) … and then perhaps the infamous ‘53’.
SGP: 556 - 87 points.

Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2011/2023 (54.9%, WhiskyFacile, refill bourbon hogshead, 335 bottles)

This one’s bottled by A.D. Rattray for WhiskyFacile in Italy. Got to love that note on the label: ‘Distilled to be Ruadh Mhor at Glenturret Distillery’. Brilliant, isn’t it? Colour: white wine. Nose: a bit less peaty, a bit fruitier, mainly on green apple and equally green pear. There’s also a rather pronounced green and black olive note, which I find thoroughly delightful—it’s quite something, really. With water: same impression. A touch of damp earth creeps into the background. Mouth (neat): much the same! A wonderful burst of energy with those olives still very much at the fore. With water: seriously, did they add olives to this? Lovely salinity and, as Romain, the famed sommelier at Lalique (the restaurant), might say, beautiful verticality. Finish: same again. Super precise, olives, lemon, apple, smoke. One must bow to it. Comments: on par with the excellent 2010.
SGP: 565 - 87 points.

Alright, as we said, coffee, Perrier, Vittel... see you with a brand-new palate after the smoky ones.

Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours Winner’ (42.3%, OB, Jaguar C-Type 70th Anniversary, 220 bottles, 2023)

Right, this one's a bit tricky. Despite the name, it's not from 1953, but rather a vatting of five casks, with a minimum age of 32 years—so more accurately a 32-year-old. Comprising four oloroso hogsheads and one PX hogshead, but no old solera casks in sight. Colour: gold. Nose: simply superb. Vineyard peaches, wildflower honey, ripe apples, papaya, and mango, with a definite nod towards a 30-year-old Sauternes (like 1st Cru Classé Lafaurie Peyraguey, same owners as Glenturret) before shifting to soft pine, sweet resins, sugared vegetables, and a lovely orange sauce (the kind you'd serve with duck, naturally). It’s a wonderfully ‘gastronomic’ nose, which will surprise no one. Mouth: a perfect reflection of the nose, but with more oomph than expected. Honey, wax, peaches, apricots, sultanas, and little cinnamon biscuits. That faint pine bud note is still present, along with a touch of liquorice wood. Finish: not overly long but well-balanced by citrus and orange blossom. A delightful honeyed aftertaste lingers. Comments: you'll have noticed I’ve carefully avoided any cheap mechanical metaphors.
SGP:661 - 92 points.

Check the index of all Glenturret we've tasted so far