WF's Little Duos, today Knockando


November 7, 2024

WF's Little Duos, today Knockando

There are indeed some independent Knockandos, notably by Signatory Vintage, but most of what is available comes from the official releases, which have always been popular in France. However, today we will be tasting two rarer versions, including the brand new ‘COD’ for the 275th anniversary of Justerini & Brooks, J&B being Knockando's 'home blend'.

French magazine ad, 1990. "Below, the soul of a great whisky" with Innes Shaw, Distillery Manager.

Knockando 12 yo 'The Manager’s Dram' (59%, OB, 1,200 bottles, 2012)

Colour: full gold. Nose: reminiscent of a highly fortified amontillado, this dram overflows with nutty nuances of every kind, tinged with metallic notes—think old pennies and a well-worn coin purse. There’s a dash of mustard, polished leather, and a rich waft of tobacco, followed by an array of dried mushrooms such as Chinese black fungus, boletes, and morels. It’s decidedly austere, far from the typical soft sherry; one can easily picture a distillery manager handpicking such a barrel. With water: walnut wine, bitters like amaro or Cynar, and hints of liquorice wood make an appearance. Mouth (neat): fiercely potent, nearly aggressive, laden with burnt cake edges, an assortment of peppers, leather, horseradish, chilli, bitter chocolate, and deep tobacco. There’s even a nod to intensely bitter cordials. Was the distillery manager Italian in 2012? With water: it relaxes only slightly, showcasing bitter oranges and peppered mustard. Finish: long and rewarding, with a welcome touch of thyme honey infused in very dark tea. Comments: it’s as if someone purposefully veered away from the polite, official 12, 15, 18, or 21-year-olds. I rather enjoy it, though it does demand a bit of fortitude.
SGP:472 - 86 points.

Knockando 32 yo 1992/2024 (50.7%, OB, The Director's Cask, for Justerini & Brooks 275th Anniversary, first fill ex-Oloroso Sherry butt, cask #1023, 453 bottles)

At a recommended price of £1,210 including taxes, it almost feels reasonable, don’t you think? Colour: dark red amber. Nose: brimming with walnut liqueur, aged metals, and deep dark chocolate, yet rounded with an alluring touch, like a ‘Mars bar’ reimagined by a Michelin-starred chef. Following that, there’s polished wax, millionaire’s shortbread, and sticky toffee pudding—all harmonised perfectly. With water: absolutely charming, showing notes of aged leather (ex-Russian leather), rich tobacco, clove, and chen-pi, those aged, dried mandarin peels. What a treat! Mouth (neat): a sherry of the old school, with a delicate floral twist of saffron and an exotic mix of spices—paprika, black tea, and freshly cracked pepper. It’s thick, opulent, yet remains dry and brisk with a hint of clay. With water: more clove, juniper, saffron, followed by bitter chocolate and the always reliable old walnut profile. There’s even a faint evocation of Indonesian Gudang Garam cigarettes—the untipped ones. Finish: long and chocolaty, revisiting those chen-pi and walnuts, and once again those distinct Gudang Garam notes! Comments: another dram with a pronounced character, far from the softer commercial releases. Truly rather stunning.
SGP:571 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Knockando we've tasted so far