WF's little duos, two Strathmills for Glory


December 5, 2024

WF's little duos, two Strathmills for Glory

As you know, we've made it our mission to sample as often as possible (and "possible" is the key word here) whiskies from those distilleries you rarely come across—ones originally designed to supply the big-name blends that were ruling the whisky world just two decades ago. Strathmill, located in Keith, is a prime example. The main misconception? "If the owners never really released it as a single malt, it must not be any good." What a rookie mistake, my friend... Here, let's start things off with an official Strathmill to set the tone.

Strathmill 15 yo ‘The Manager’s Dram’ (53.5%, OB, refill cask, 2003)

What an utterly charming label! A quick reminder that for this series, managers genuinely selected the casks, while the delightful name “refill cask” is a nod to a time when, in 2003, no one had yet conjured the bright idea of charging more for younger whisky by hyping the cask type over the age. But let’s not harp on… Colour: straw. Nose: an incredible sweetness and aromatic glow of malted barley, gentle ale, white nougat, apple tart, and wildflower honey. It’s magic – simple, perfect magic. With water: the pure beauty of nature captured in a dram. Mouth (neat): a flawless reflection of the nose – barley, apples, candied sugar, beer, perfectly ripe pears, and honey. Bright, excellent, and a choice that feels unmistakably “Distillery Manager’s own”. With water: astonishingly good, by a triple-necked electric guitar! Gorgeous malty biscuits, honey, soft polenta, a touch of vanilla, and a dash of orgeat syrup. Finish: medium in length, with a faint touch of putty but entirely consistent with everything before. Comments: an authentic, agricultural-style whisky that feels refreshingly untainted by marketing interference (and I say that as a proud member of that peculiar tribe).
SGP:551 - 88 points.

Well, it’s true, isn’t it? If you read any old and glorious book about whisky, they’ll always tell you that the three essential ingredients are barley, yeast, and water. Wood was never mentioned.

Strathmill 10 yo 2014/2024 (58.1%, Lady of the Glen, Amarone finish, cask #802139, 282 bottles)

The other day I mused that Amarone finishings are rather clever, as the wine itself, barring a few exceptions, can be rather challenging to enjoy straight. For those unfamiliar, Amarone is a robust Italian red, crafted from partially dried grapes in Veneto's Valpolicella region – often found gracing pizzeria wine lists. It also happens to be part of the rare 5% of Italian wines I don’t particularly care for, which by happy implication means I adore the remaining 95%. Italian wines for the win! Colour: apricot. Nose: a fine example of a finishing that doesn’t hammer home the wine’s identity – a blessed relief. There are touches of roasted peppers and stewed tomatoes, interwoven with fresh thyme and pine needles, evolving into orange cake spiced with clove and a touch of moss. Really rather charming, and far from a hasty ‘quick-dip’ finish. With water: a touch of earth and a whisper of cardamom emerge. Mouth (neat): surprisingly good. The wine does introduce a significant sweetness, almost like a liqueur, with notes of peppered cherries, strawberries, roasted peppers, and tomatoes mingling with juniper. It feels as though we’ve strayed from whisky territory, but the craftsmanship remains impressive – an uncharted flying whisky, or UFW. With water: a bridge-like quality comes through, suggesting a long maturation to smooth things out, though the sweetness is still quite bold. Finish: rather long, gentle, syrupy, but never cloying. Comments: how to put it? A style I don’t care for, executed with remarkable precision. Now it feels a bit like the end of the Amarone-finishing road – any further and you’d be left with fortified wine spiked with whisky. Take the score with a massive pinch of salt.
SGP: 751 - 82 points.

Check the index of all Strathmill we've tasted so far