WF's little duos, two wee Aultmore


November 28, 2024

WF's little duos, two wee Aultmore

Let’s see what we have…

Aultmore 10 yo 2011/2022 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega Series, first fill oloroso, 308 bottles)

A bottling/company where roughly everything but the distillery is a mystery, which just goes to show there’s always something new to discover in whisky. Colour: light gold. First fill oloroso, really? Nose: one suspects some trickery with the oloroso claim, but no complaints here – this wonderfully clean profile of barley and apples is thoroughly appealing. A few hints of modelling clay and putty add interest. All is well. With water: green walnuts do make an appearance eventually, but the whole remains delightfully natural and charming. Mouth (neat): excellent, youthful, and both sharp and oily, with fruity syrups and pepper, balanced by crisp apple peel to keep things in check. With water: outstanding – even better! Green apples, barley, indeed green walnuts, alongside lemony touches, a whisper of agave, and even a flirtation with mezcal. ¡Bingo! (Yes, we’re speaking Mexican now.) Finish: no issues here. A trace of mead and a hint of vanilla round things off beautifully. Comments: the cask specifics don’t matter when the result is this good.
SGP: 551 - 86 points.

Who mentioned mezcal, eh?

Aultmore 17yo 2006/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, Tequila Cask Finish, 150 bottles)

An exuberant Ukrainian bottling from our good friends at Scyfion, whose ongoing efforts are nothing short of inspiring. And this is certainly not a dram for the faint-hearted. Worth noting that the tequila cask’s involvement spanned a full 48 months, qualifying as ‘maturation’ rather than mere ‘finishing’. Slava Ukraini! Colour: gold. Nose: remarkably, the malt has held its ground admirably despite those four years, coming across with a character reminiscent of its predecessor, but with an added earthy nuance and perhaps the faintest suggestion of olive. With water: similar impressions, now enriched by gentle bakery notes—yeast, bread dough, beer—and, buried deep in the background, a fleeting wisp of lavender infused in olive oil. Mouth (neat): Once again, the tequila influence is admirably restrained, its contribution perhaps lurking in those earthy hints of grapefruit and pink pepper. Bright, fresh, and wonderfully vivacious. With water: here, the tequila finally steps forward a little more, yet without disrupting the malt’s coherence. No clash, no disjointedness—it remains unmistakably a whisky. Finish: long, fruity, and thoroughly delightful, with a mineral touch, perhaps slate or basalt. Could that be the tequila again? Comments: Tequila production in Ukraine—who knew? Right… In any case, this Aultmore is simply excellent, and one can only dream of a future where Scyfion’s Crimean wine finishes make a triumphant return. As for Frida Kahlo's head on a Mayan pyramid...
SGP: 551 – 87 points.

PS: I tasted it again after 30 minutes; the tequila came through much more noticeably, but not enough to change my modest score. Slava Ukraini!

Check the index of all Aultmore we've tasted so far