A Few More Rums from Colombia to Jamaica


November 17, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A Few More Rums from Colombia to Jamaica

90% of the rums we taste are exceptional, which can falsely create the impression that rum, in general, is superior to whisky. This is why we make a point of also tasting, as often as possible, very 'commercial' rums, usually as an aperitif. Like this one...

Coloma 8 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2023)

We had tasted this one about eight years ago, and back then it was exceedingly sweet (WF 50). Still, hope springs eternal, as one might say, especially if one believes in the constant forward march of humanity (right?). Colour: gold. Nose: molasses honey, caramel, and some somewhat pleasant hints of genuine honey (crafted by actual bees, six legs, four wings and all). By the way, ever wondered how to tell an insect from the bee family apart from a fly? Flies have two wings, while bees sport four. Yes, I’m padding a bit here, as there’s not a great deal to say about this modest rum. Mouth: crammed with sugar. Coffee liqueur, sugarcane syrup. To its credit, it does at least carry a hint of sugarcane. Finish: short, with some tannins and powdered coffee. Comments: I’m consistent with my former impressions. You’d need vast amounts of ice to brave this drink without flinching.
SGP:830 - 50 points.

Indonesia 8 yo 2015/2024 (59.9%, LMDW Flag Series, 195 bottles)

Molasses distilled in pot stills. I suppose one could just as well call this a ‘Batavia Arrack’. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s quite distinctive, opening with notes of rain-soaked gravel and a touch of saltpetre, before revealing fresh sugarcane and quality green tea. There’s a subtle hint of cider vinegar and sage, perhaps. The very high ABV may be holding it back somewhat. With water: brimming with unusual herbs, almost like those found in herbal liqueurs. Picture a chartreuse with not a single gram of sugar. A touch of forest floor. Mouth (neat): unusual again, slightly lemony and vinegary, but also showing hydrocarbons, varnish, and even a touch of shellfish. I assure you. With water: similar impressions of an herb blend, with coriander, basil, sage, bay leaf, lemon mint… Finish: fairly long, fresh, and with more aniseed. Comments: genuinely a different style. Worth discovering.
SGP:461 - 84 points.

Trinidad Distillers Limited 13 yo 2009/2023 (58%, Dràm Mor, Trinidad, bourbon, cask #2, 305 bottles)

Over time, we’ve learned that, much like Caroni, TDL showcases various styles, ranging from fruity powerhouses to spirits laden with esters, tar, and… diesel fuel. Colour: dark gold. Nose: we’re in somewhat of a middle ground here—it’s neither mango eau-de-vie nor North Sea crude oil (nor American fracking output). Let’s see what water brings… With water: delightful damp earth, a stroll through an eucalyptus forest, and a touch of fresh rubber. Mouth (neat): excellent! Saltier and tarrier, with an explosion of salted liquorice at the forefront. With water: superb, saline and lemony, still brimming with hefty doses of liquorice, tar, rubber, and pepper. Finish: long, fairly dry, dominated by salmiak and a hint of varnish. Comments: if they’ve used this cask, once emptied, to finish whiskies, it’s bound to be explosive! Not overly complex, but thoroughly excellent. And £70 on release.
SGP:563 - 87 points.

Let's see the difference with Caroni (any excuse will do, really) …

Caroni 1995/2022 (62.9%, The Colours of Rum, Trinidad, N°4, 250 bottles, 163 bottles)

A blend of contrasts, matured 11 years in ex-rum casks on-site before spending 12 more years in Europe within an ex-whisky cask. That last part aside, this should hold all the quintessential Caroni markers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: not vastly dissimilar to others, yet here we find an even stronger hit of petrol and adhesive, notably powerful at this striking ABV. Hints of anti-rust paint and carbolineum lend an industrial edge. With water: icy mint and high-quality polish come forward. Mouth (neat): surprisingly fermentative with an unexpected touch of aged cheeses like Mimolette and Parmesan; the high ABV does distort matters a touch. With water: salted liquorice returns, alongside a refreshing squeeze of lemon juice and a grassy touch. This one’s no laughing matter. Finish: exceptionally long, turning a bit medicinal with a lingering interplay of black pepper, paint, and sea salt. Comments: undoubtedly splendid, though slightly severe and just a touch challenging.
SGP:463 - 89 points.

I feel like tasting this...

Black Rock 2000/2012 (57.7%, L’Esprit, Barbados, bourbon, cask #2, 100 bottles)

This young rum comes from the West India Rum Distillery, also known as WIRD, bottled before its acquisition by Maison Ferrand. Colour: white wine. Nose: unmistakably pot still, with lovely notes of oil paint and turpentine, complemented by unusual hints of seeds—possibly soybeans? Definitely caraway. Rare and charming at this stage. Why hadn’t I tried this sooner? (Lazy Whiskyfun…) With water: gains a slightly metallic note, so caution with dilution, but rewarded with splendid tangerine aromas. Mouth (neat): superb and distinctive, sitting between artisanal pastis and mustard, something that would even suit sushi. With water: be sparing; it turns soapy easily. Still, those fine tangerine and chen-pi notes reappear. Finish: long, elegant, and still quite distinctive, with caraway and anise lending a refreshing touch. Comments: more delicate than BlackRock, and genuinely superb.
SGP: 462 - 88 points.

Uitvlugt 33 yo 1990/2024 (51.3%, Decadent Drinks, Rum Sponge, Guyana, refill rum barrel, Ed.26, 182 bottles)

This rum, early landed, spent most of its ageing time in Europe, which does include the UK. Colour: straw. Nose: an intriguing mix of sweet crab, tarragon, kumquats, shoe polish, lanoline, and a dash of yuzu. It’s begun to ‘decompose’ in the most positive way, meaning the rougher, heavier elements (which we do appreciate) are evolving into subtler, more refined tones—much like a 30-year-old Islay, if you will. With water: the full spectrum of shoe polishes emerges, from the most sophisticated (fit for John Lobb) to the more rugged (fit for the field). Mouth (neat): magnificent and classic, with the wood imparting plenty of conifer resins while maintaining elegance. A lemony, saline liquorice underpins the profile, supported by notes of olives and tar. With water: airy, mentholated citrus appears, and that delightful old herbal liqueur quality shines through—gentian included. Finish: not immensely long, but fair for its 33 years, leaving behind a splendid lemony salinity. Comments: simply a great spirit, nearly akin to a much aged, say Caol Ila.
SGP: 562 - 91 points.

Here you go, a young one, just to see…

Guyana Rum 12 yo 2011/2024 ‘MDB2M’ (57.1%, Watt Whisky, Scotch whisky barrel, 264 bottles)

From Diamond, obviously. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is a rather fruit-forward Guyanese, bursting with ripe papayas, bananas, and sweet apples, with sugarcane syrup and a touch of orange juice playing softly in the background. It doesn’t seem to stem from one of those legendary old stills collected at Diamond, but then again, one could be mistaken. It leans more towards a 'grain' profile than a 'malt', if you catch my drift. Still, it’s exceedingly pleasant. With water: aromas of warm brioche and fougasse, with subtle hints of liquorice wood. Mouth (neat): sweet and fruity, yet robust enough, featuring lime and a hint of liquorice. With water: oranges come to the forefront, sharpening the overall profile and adding a lovely tension. Finish: medium in length, showcasing sugarcane syrup and orange liqueur, with a whisper of salt in the aftertaste. Comments: a delicious and charming rum, easy-going yet distinguished. It holds its own remarkably well, even after a 33-year-old Uitvlugt.
SGP:541 - 85 points.

Alright, we're off to Jamaica… I would suggest we listen to Ghetto Vibes on Radio Garden while reading these silly musings...

Hampden Estate ‘1753’ (46%, OB, 12,000 bottles, 2024)

This one’s an HLCF. While I’m not a huge advocate for prominently displayed ‘vintage’ years that stretch the imagination (though it’s common practice among the Scots and the Japanese too), Hampden can do what it pleases and rightly so. Naturally, the rational mind knows 1753 isn’t the vintage here, but marketing has never been aimed at the rational mind, has it? Enough musings—on we go… Colour: light gold. Nose: oh yes, undoubtedly, unmistakably, indisputably Hampden at its finest. Mouth: tar, ashes, liquorice, rotting bananas, olives, with a cheeky sip of riesling to tie it together. But of course. Finish: long, saline, maritime, tar-laden. Those olives linger beautifully in the aftertaste. Comments: remarkably fresh for a 1753 (oh, how droll!). In all seriousness, it’s flawless and outstanding value at 60€. Thank goodness for the generous 12,000 bottles. Think Ardbeg 10, Springbank 10—cut from the same cloth.
SGP:464 - 89 points.

One last one.

Monymusk 23 yo 1998/2022 ‘MBK’ (57.1%, Rest & Be Thankful, Jamaica, American oak barrel, 205 bottles)

This appears to be a low-ester Monymusk, with the 'MBK' designation suggesting just that. Right then... Colour: pale gold. Nose: you’ll never find complete absence of carbon, tar, or varnish in these Jamaicans, but here we’re far from pure acetone. Green apples and underripe bananas, white asparagus, a whisper of oyster sauce, pine needles, and then simply a platter of a dozen oysters with seaweed and lemon. Truth be told, it’s a stunningly complex nose. With water: low tide in Brittany, if you like. Mouth (neat): exceptional. Time to summon the Anti-Rumporn Brigade. Sea water, a respectable grüner veltliner, lemon, gently smoked oysters, ashes... Proof indeed that it’s not all about esters, as the content here is said to be around 75 grams per HLPA – barely anything. With water: marvellous, though do mind the water; too much and it swiftly loses its spark. Finish: rather long, perhaps not its most show-stopping aspect. It loses a point – dura lex, sed lex. Comments: a little gem, one I should have sampled sooner. If only we had more tasting slots...
SGP:462 - 90 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far