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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 26, 2024 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today new Glendronach 18 vs… we’ll see |
Enthusiasts have always enjoyed discussing the changes in Glendronach's core range, I don't know why.
Glendronach's stillhouse in 2003 (MM Archive, Craig)
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Glendronach 18 yo 'Sherry Cask Matured' (46%, OB, 2024) 
New look! Matured in Oloroso. They mention ‘Spanish oak casks’ on the label, but I’ve always thought that term could be a tad misleading (not just with Glendronach, mind). What exactly is ‘Spanish’ here, the oak, the casks, or both? That said, we were quite fond of the previous 18-year-old ‘Allardice’ (around 86 points), though it didn’t exactly have us swinging from the rafters – we used to prefer the 15-year-old. Colour: amber. Nose: there’s that Mars bar and millionaire’s shortbread note, followed by a hint of tar and damp earth. It’s got that dunnage warehouse feel, which I rather like. Then, as expected, the walnut wine shows up, with a touch of mustard and clove, before we nose into an old tin of black tea. Nothing to complain about. Mouth: perhaps a touch less precise, opening on peppered chocolate and espresso, moving into Catalan rancio, old walnuts, brown tobacco, and finally, oranges. The texture is a bit lighter than I anticipated, but it all works beautifully. Finish: medium length, with black tea, walnuts, and chocolate with a coffee edge. Comments: I’m not sure if it’s full-on Oloroso maturation or a three-year rerack or so, but I think it’s very well done. For my money, there’s absolutely no reason to think it’s any less good than the Allardice – and hey, I rather prefer the new look.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
Let’s find a worthy sparring partner... |

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Glendronach 1996/2010 (57.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry butt, cask #195, 287 bottles) 
Don’t ask me why we’re only getting around to this beauty now—I haven’t the faintest idea. Forgotten backlog, I suppose. Colour: deep reddish amber. Nose: full-on sherry, massive and earthy with a lovely mentholated, almost medicinal character. Loads of camphor, a cedar cigar box (fully stocked, of course), fermented figs, aged pinot noir, cherry liqueur, a hint of turpentine, and linseed oil… I find it rather astounding, and it seems to have improved over its fourteen years in glass. With water: old fabrics, pepper, figs, prunes, and a touch of Ténarèze. Mouth (neat): superb, very much in line with the nose, showing mint, camphor, chocolate, kirsch-soaked cherries, cracked pepper, bitter oranges, and quinine… It’s truly magnificent. With water: unstoppable. Even earthier, more on cloves and juniper… and black pepper chocolate. Finish: very long, so powerful it almost seems peated. Or nearly so. Seville oranges linger on the aftertaste. Comments: I’m not sure this incredible dram was quite like this in 2010. A proper sherry monster, in every sense.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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