A BenRiach-tacular session, Part Two


February 5, 2025

A BenRiach-tacular session, Part Two

No real standout winner yesterday, but everything was truly good to very good. Let’s keep going…

Benriach 1996/2015 (43%, Jean Boyer, Best Cask of Scotland, Re-Coopered Hogsheads)

Always a soft spot for the house of Jean Boyer. Cheers, Jean Marie up there. Amusingly, at 43% ABV, they still decided not to chill-filter it—yet the whisky remains as clear as a Greenlandic mountain stream (randomly chosen). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: oh, lovely! Notes of cucumber water, even pickles, along with green apple juice and lemon, followed by hints of damp earth and melon skin. While one always leans toward higher strengths, it must be said that sometimes water unlocks a malt’s aromatic potential, even at bottling. Mouth: the purity of garden fruits, with a touch of vanilla and honey. Alas, the cucumber has disappeared (just joking). Finish: medium length, with pleasant saline notes and more malt, even a hint of blonde beer. Comments: very, very, very pleasant.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Benriach 22 yo 2000/2022 (62.1%, SCSM, China, sherry butt, cask #25618, 246 bottles)

Colour: amber. Nose: a very light touch of gunpowder that quickly melts into raisins, maple syrup, pecan pie, a hint of molasses, and triple sec (or Grand Marnier). And since we’re in China, perhaps a faint whiff of fortune cookie—though only if the paper’s message is good. Ha. With water: doesn’t change much, to be honest. A few notes of mild peppers. Mouth (neat): a firmer sherry than expected, with an explosion of pepper, leather, and tobacco, followed by the anticipated old walnuts. But be careful, this is over 62% ABV. With water: water transforms it significantly on the palate, bringing dried figs and heather honey to the forefront, while leather lingers in the background. Finish: long and similar, with glazed chestnuts and quite a bit of wood in the end. Comments: fairly dry in the end, but I find it really very good. A robust, ex-sherry Benriach with a bodybuilder’s frame.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Benriach 12 yo 2009/2021 (59.8%, OB for LMDW, Conquête, Cask Edition, peated Port pipe, cask #4834, 766 bottles)

Seven hundred and sixty-six bottles from a pipe, not bad at all! Colour: apricot. Nose: absolutely packed with smoke, like a chimney that’s back-drafting slightly. There’s a hint of red fruit in the background, but it’s the smoke, along with a touch of paraffin, that dominates for now. With water: the red fruits emerge, though covered in soot and wrapped in peat smoke. Blackcurrants and raspberries. Mouth (neat): very powerful, with leather, peat, pepper, bell pepper, and blueberries. Boom. With water: works well, as the oak brings plenty of spices like turmeric and ginger. The peat remains massive yet pleasantly drying, while the red fruits are slightly subdued. Finish: those same notes persist, but blood orange makes a late appearance, complete with its zest. Comments: peat and Port always make us a bit nervous, but I must admit this one has been handled beautifully. It even holds its own after the lovely sherry from our Chinese friends.
SGP:566 - 87 points.

Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (57.1%, The Duchess, Game & Wildlife Series, PX finish, cask #7355)

Is that a skunk on the label? We love animals, and in many ways, they’re superior to Humans, but still—a skunk? Or is it a honey badger? Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is amusing, with a hint of strawberry right at the start, which then morphs into mountain honey, followed by sultanas, ripe mirabelles, and a touch of fresh garden mint. A gorgeous nose—soft, gentle, and utterly seductive. With water: hardly any change, apart from the usual walnut/leather/tobacco combo making its appearance. Mouth (neat): oh yes, this is excellent. Very close to some official ex-sherry releases, with notes of raspberry ganache, Mars bar-like caramel, and millionaire’s shortbread. With water: herbal teas and infusions join the mix, but with almost no sweetness. A touch of grape stems and seeds, though measured. Finish: long, with leather, tobacco, walnuts, and a hint of wax. Comments: simply very good. The duke must be pleased (or something like that).
SGP:561 - 88 points.

One day, we’ll add 1 point for very pretty labels, like the one coming up, and deduct 1 for the horrible ones. And we’ll take off 10 points for anything too "AI", the kind of sloppy stuff that hurts our eyes and makes us overthink the future of humanity. And yes, of course, packaging is part of what makes a spirit what it is.

Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (61.2%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #7336, 165 bottles)

A very beautiful label indeed. Colour: gold. Nose: creamy, malty, soft, with vanilla sponge cake and orange loaf. It’s simple, it’s beautiful, it’s undeniable. With water: much the same. A true barley extravaganza. Mouth (neat): here we go, this hits a 90. Pure malt, biscuits, tarte tatin, honeys, and ras-el-hanout. Remarkably gentle even at this strength. With water: a flurry of little herbs and spices bursts in, almost moving. Finish: fairly long, creamy, with notes of oriental pastries followed by the usual spices—paprika, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Even a touch of quince paste. Comments: and so, if we were really factoring in the label, this would score 91.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Benriach 23 yo 1997/2020 (50.7%, The Whisky Agency, ‘Keep Going’, sherry butt, 427 bottles)

Well, we’re only five years late… Colour: gold. Nose: this was a very well-matured butt, offering a nose that’s fresh, fruity, and mineral. Peaches, beach sand, mirabelles, and a touch of crushed slate. Fairly subtle, leaning towards the style of an excellent small-batch Cognac. Yes, indeed. Water is unnecessary. Mouth: very good, somewhat reminiscent of the Whisky Blues, but more focused on Williams pear. In fact, the pear rules the stage for now. With water: boom, tarte tatin and quince paste, plus a few blades of grass. Finish: medium length, with the pear making a return. Comments: these Whisky Agency bottlings, though we hardly see them anymore, often feel like haute couture whiskies. Here’s another fine example…
SGP:551 - 89 points.

Benriach 24 yo 1997/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, hogshead)

Amazing that Fässle prints ‘Please Enjoy Responsibly’ in bold on its labels. Of course, no one’s going to drive a 2.5-tonne American electric car with questionable brakes at 250km/h after downing half a litre of this Benriach. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, it’s essentially the same whisky as the TWA, more or less. Mouth: same. Perhaps an additional lovely note of lemonade. Finish: same. Comments: with my apologies to the gang of ducks.
SGP:551 - 89 points.

Benriach 25 yo 1996/2021 (45.6%, Liquid Treasures, hogshead, 246 bottles)

1 bonus point (fictitious) for the rather nautical, almost “yachting” label. Colour: pale straw. Nose: the same style as before, just slightly lighter. Apple juice, pear juice (a mortal sin), vanilla, and acacia honey. Mouth: very light, with an almost diaphanous character, featuring watered apple juice and light beers (but European ones, naturally). Finish: medium length, more herbal, with apple juice and a touch of cinnamon. A hint of pepper lingers longer than expected. Comments: a rather intellectual Benriach—light, subtle, and easy to miss if you don’t give it the attention it deserves.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Benriach 33 yo 1991/2024 (55.9%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, second-fill sherry casks, 118 bottles)

Now we’re talking about some proper age! Let me remind you, we’re always on the lookout for markers of the greatest Benriachs (1968-1971-1976). Essentially, mango. Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps, indeed, there are hints of those exotic fruits, but for now, it’s mostly guava and papaya. Also, beeswax and a pile of very ripe apples. A touch of plasticine too. With water: orange juice! Like love, culture, and kindness, orange juice might just save the world. Mouth (neat): this is serious business. Apple cake drizzled with lemon juice and linden honey. With water: still no mango, but a delightful combination of honey and orange biscuits. Finish: good length, with notes of cakes, Danish pastries, thyme tisane, and amaretti. Comments: as expected, this is a magnificent old Speyside in its natural state. But be cautious with water—it’s as delicate as an old Swiss watch. Better not to add any at all.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

One last one for today, let’s go on…

Benriach 28 yo 1976/2005 (53.7%, OB, hogshead, cask #8081, 189 bottles)

Now this should be something special. From one of those ‘peated’ batches made by Seagram’s during one of Scotland’s ‘peat race’ era. Many Benriach casks were later re-racked during the distillery’s revival under Billy Walker & co. Those days are long gone, as we’ve seen time and again, but let’s not deny ourselves the pleasure… Colour: deep gold. Nose: stunning! Never have banana skins, natural rubber, and mango peels (bingo!) been so magnificent. Tremendous subtlety, with even a hint of miso in the background. A truly philosophical malt. With water: cut hay, charred pinewood, and meaty notes—marrow, odd sausages, smoked bacon. Mouth (neat): mainland peated malts aren’t usually my thing (Brora and Longrow being the exceptions), but this is different. Thai broth, explosive citrus, and—cue trumpets—‘not-so-ripe’ mangoes. Superb green spices, pepper, and chili oil for pizza. With water: the fruits and wax seize control. Peated mirabelles—someone needs to make that happen. No, too busy, thanks. Finish: long, softer, more honeyed, fruitier, and more quintessentially Benriach. Smoky, peppered orange marmalade—does that exist?? Comments: a grandiose Benriach, the kind they simply don’t make anymore. Was this a flash in the pan? That said, I still prefer the unpeated versions of the same vintages; these exceptional peated expressions still trail the likes of Brora by three or four points.
SGP:664 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Benriach we've tasted so far