A Full Case of Benrinnes


April 15, 2025

A Full Case of Benrinnes – Part 6/6

It was high time to put an end to this Benrinnes binge — we’ve been tasting them seven at a time. Great Scott, 6 × 7 = 42!

Benrinnes 12 yo 2011/2024 (46%, StrongholdUA, Ukraine, oloroso sherry octave finish, cask #11639/050, 312 bottles)

I read on social media that whisky and politics should be kept separate, that they don’t mix well. Utter nonsense, whisky has always been political, in Ireland, in Scotland, and in the US too. Whisky is political by nature. Otherwise, it would just be cheap beer, distilled in crumbling factories and aged in second-hand casks. Slava Ukraini. Colour: full shiny Ukrainian gold. Nose: plenty of roasted walnuts and hazelnuts, earth, fresh concrete, soot—you’d think this was a Ben Nevis. With water: lovely, on apple peels, even potato skins, ashes, cement… Mouth (neat): wonderfully austere, smoky, peppery, herbal, bitter… I like this a lot, it really makes you work. With water: fruitier, a touch easier, but leather steps in to keep that slightly… military profile in check. Finish: long and peppery, on tart and bitter apples. The peppered walnuts go all-out in the aftertaste. Comments: this isn’t an easy Benrinnes, but full respect to our Ukrainian friends.
SGP:462 - 85 points.

Benrinnes 2007/2024 (52.3%, Dutch Whisky Connection, 5th Anniversary, 210 bottles)

Selected by Michiel Wigman, naturally. Love the quasi-Soviet, almost Schwitters-like label design by Master Hans Dillesse. Colour: deep gold. Nose: walnuts and yeasts, loads of beer of all kinds, then a wheelbarrow’s worth of roasted nuts—pecans, pistachios, malted barley… With water: oh yes—red ale, vin jaune, parsley and marrow. A deeply savoury note of beef and chicken stock, missing only a touch of truffle. Mouth (neat): wait now, we’re on the west coast, somewhere between Ben Nevis and Springbank. Salty, raw, very yeasty, smoky and extremely malty… This is truly a brutal Benrinnes, far from mirabelles and dainty apples. With water: still very dry, restless, salty, on leather and tobacco. Finish: not much change, perhaps more pepper and bitter walnuts. Comments: what was this? A challenge? A dare? A provocation? Whatever it was, we love this embodiment of anti-commercialism. Let me remind you: whisky is political.
SGP:462 - 85 points.

Benrinnes 10 yo 2011/2022 (58.1%, LMDW, Artist #12, 1st fill sherry butt finish, cask #307205, 660 bottles)

Still those 3XXXXX cask numbers of mysterious origin—and those stunning labels. Colour: office coffee. Nose: office coffee indeed, chicory, sorrel and spinach soup, dark chocolate, roasted walnuts, malt extract, artichokes… With water: black teas and chocolates, fully unleashed. The faintest touch of gunpowder, barely noticeable. Mouth (neat): extremely rich and thick, caramelised, like a proper concentrate of orange liqueur veering into those slightly mad Belgian beers—think Westvleteren 12 or Orval. Admittedly, we’re still clueless in that field, despite the numerous efforts of our Belgian friends (aka the Alsatians of the North). With water: smoked hazelnuts, honey sauce and quite a bit of leather. Leather isn’t always good news. Finish: long, with a layer of burnt rubber over the rest. Comments: forgot to mention the black pepper.
SGP:462 - 84 points.

Let’s be honest — these sherry finishes with leathery notes aren’t always the easiest…

Benrinnes 12 yo 2009/2022 (54%, Chapter 7, bourbon hogshead, oloroso finish, cask #301395, 324 bottles)

This must be in the same vein. Colour: deep gold. Nose: cabbage soup, chocolate, gunpowder, brand-new leather jacket, malt, ham. With water: yes, ham fat and fresh concrete. Mouth (neat): much better on the palate, though still a bit forceful—bitter almonds, bitter oranges, pepper and very dark chocolate. With water: it’s alright, quite pleasant, though still a tad tiring. Finish: long, peppery, bitter. Leek soup. Comments: these sherry finishes do end up being rather tricky in the long run, just a touch lacking in precision but still very enjoyable.
SGP:561 - 82 points.

Benrinnes 9 yo 2014/2023 (55%, James Eadie, first fill Malaga finish, cask #367728)

The finishing lasted 16 months. That’s roughly how long it takes a far-left French MP to solve a Year 7 maths problem. Kindly meant, of course—without them, France wouldn’t quite be France. Colour: gold. Nose: chocolate, pepper, ham and sorrel. With water: more ham, leeks, cabbage. Mouth (neat): much better and fruitier on the palate. Violet jelly, marmalade, various honeys, pink peppercorns (a lot of it, really a lot). With water: a tidal wave of sultanas, figs, PX, candied bananas, meadow honeys… Phew, saved by the bell. Finish: fairly long, more balanced thanks to apples and oranges. Comments: very good, just ever so slightly… ordinary.
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Benrinnes 12 yo 2010/2023 (57.6%, Signatory Vintage for LMDW, New Vibrations, first fill oloroso sherry butt finish, cask #112, 683 bottles)

Let’s be honest—these young sherry finishes are about as thrilling as the launch of a new Tesla or the next iPhone. That said, this is Signatory, so there’s hope… Colour: amber. Nose: marmalade, honey, pancake syrup, fudge and Iberian ham. Iberian ham isn’t necessarily good news, so let’s see what happens with water… With water: roasted peanuts, slightly burnt, bay leaf and leather. Mouth (neat): no, this is very good—the level goes right back up. There are honeys and exotic fruit jams, along with spice blends we adore—satay, masala, Balinese basa gede… With water: honey and figs, everything is splendid, Madame la Marquise (French saying). Finish: medium length but very honeyed, much softer now. Almost a miracle. Black and pink peppercorns return in the background. Comments: we’ve been saved—well done!
SGP:651 - 85 points.

And now, the last of the last. Agreed — we probably should have saved the 1971 Cadenhead for this point, rather than yet another young sherry-finished Benrinnes. Such is life… Right then, let’s go with a BB hoggie to finish — sound good?

Benrinnes 10 yo 2013/2023 (57.5%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #300745, 278 bottles)

Always these #3XX,XXX casks—perhaps a curse? A secret sign? A hegemonic broker at work? Colour: gold. Nose: we’re treated to lovely notes of natural rubber, macaroons, marzipan, and orgeat syrup… With water: barley, chalk, mud, cement… Mouth (neat): very nice, with bitter orange, small bitter pears, school glue, and more marzipan. With water: lovely malt, orgeat syrup, though it does dip a little. Finish: medium length, on almonds and ripe apples. Comments: it’s good.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Right, that’s enough — we’re calling it. Benrinnes is still a very good malt, but its true character remains to be discovered. Sherry finishes are generally good, but they can get a bit tiring over time, to be honest. Just my opinion! Then again, maybe we just shouldn’t have tasted quite so many…

Check the index of all Benrinnes we've tasted so far