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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 3, 2025 |
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A fairly recent trio from Glendronach |
Do you remember, fifteen years ago or more, Glendronach had become the new Macallan among enthusiasts, at least when it came to sherried whisky. This new positioning was backed by single casks from the 1970s through to the rather superlative 1993 vintage, as well as an excellent 15-year-old ‘Revival’. |
(Glendronach Distillery) |
The art of intelligent re-racking at its peak. Since then, things seem to have quietened down a bit—at least here, we’ve had far fewer contacts than back in the day. On the other hand, there are now probably 500 new interesting whisky distilleries around the world, which certainly changes the landscape considerably and puts the whisky world into a new perspective. Well then, shall we have a little Glendronach trio, if you’re up for it… |
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Glendronach 15 yo (46%, OB, Sherry Cask Matured, 2024) 
To be honest, and after so many years, one was hoping more for a confirmation than a revival. And that’s just as well—they’ve now done away with that designation. Right, there’s still plenty of PX and oloroso in this baby, let’s see where this very recent batch now sits. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is no longer a ‘sherry monster’, and we’re not exactly going to complain. Quite the contrary—there’s very ripe apple, figs, naturally a few walnuts, touches of sage and bay leaf, then a little caramel and some fudge. In short, it has fallen back in line, but frankly, we’re rather fond of that. Mouth: what’s really charming is that old-school side that remains, this lovely sherry that’s both dry and PX-ed, the tobacco, the marmalade, the apple compote, the figs... It’s almost turned fresh, borderline refreshing. Finish: fairly long, with oranges and apples that keep things bright, then some sloe berries. Comments: very good and actually keeping its usual place, even if the explosive, thick character of its early days has nearly vanished. Still, we’re very much enjoying it.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Glendronach 2013/2024 ‘Hand-Filled’ (61.6%, OB, PX puncheon, cask #104) 
Well, this must be tailor-made then... Colour: rich amber. Nose: prunes, menthol, liquorice, varnish, dates and fir honey. Water should awaken a few extra aromas... With water: old-school bourbon from the 1950s. Seriously. I’ve always found it rather amusing how close those ancient American bottles and certain sherry monsters can be, when the casks were extremely active. Mouth (neat): this is massive, ultra-concentrated, tarry, very ‘old Málaga’ in the style of a solera begun in the 19th century, yet oddly approachable. The touches of lovage are simply marvellous. With water: this time we’re in Ténarèze, with coffee, folle blanche, cooked peaches, and some rich yet tightly coiled bitters. The bitterness of fir buds sneaks in towards the end. Finish: very long, creamy, mentholated, but never overwhelming, never ‘too much’. Comments: we shan’t name certain ancient releases from a certain Speyside distillery again, shall we? And besides, since it was a large puncheon, there was a fair bit of it, which is even better.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Glendronach 1993/2024 ‘Hand-Filled’ (55.5%, OB, oloroso, cask #2463)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: this is extreme, packed with fir, spruce, maritime pine, inner tube rubber, myrtle, menthol, then dark chocolate, dates and damsons. This rather wild profile is probably a bit ‘too much’, but the seasoned taster—hardened and perhaps slightly jaded—will quite like it, trust me. Still, we’re likely at the very edge of the exercise here. With water: oh, this is lovely! It needs to be brought down to around 48%, no more, no less. Then come sumptuous notes of old Pomerol and a gloriously toasted edge that takes charge. All sorts of mint also decide to join the party. Mouth (neat): liqueur made from tyres (Pirelli?) and tar laced with fir honey. No joke... With water: chocolates and coffees, plus a hint of old Port Mourant and peppermint cordial from a long-forgotten brand. Finish: long and admirably dry and oaky, yet still offering notes of blackcurrant and proper wild blueberry tart—the kind that stains your teeth for days. Comments: it’s a beauty (sorry, bare minimum service on the commentary front).
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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