A few drops of Champagne


November 16, 2025

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A few drops of Champagne

I am, of course, referring to Grande and Petite Champagne, in the Cognac region. Or Fine Champagne, which is a fine like all Cognacs (don't ask). The French word champagne comes from the Latin Campania, meaning ‘open country’ or ‘plain’. Many places in France were named this way, including, of course, the region famed for its bubbly – but also two parts of the Cognac-producing area. And many others besides. So, let’s begin with our customary little apéritif...

Marnier-Lapostolle V.S.O.P. (40%, OB, Fine Champagne, 1970s)

An old cognac from the makers of Grand Marnier, now in the hands of Campari. No idea what this might be worth in terms of quality, let’s have a look… Colour: deep gold. Nose: what’s terrifying, really, is the way our brain operates, as I simply can’t help detecting notes of Grand Marnier at first, but it’s a fairly elegant cognac that soon emerges, with vine peach and plum, then a handful of golden sultanas and some charmingly honeyed touches. Lovely bottle ageing. Mouth: loads of raisins and a rather exaggerated sweetness that borders on old sweet wines, even Pineau des Charentes. It’s genuinely good, but we’re drifting away from the realm of ‘proper’ cognac. Finish: a little short, a little too jammy. Comments: this was a good product, though perhaps owing to extended time in bottle, the liqueur-like side appears to have taken over in the end.
SGP:630 - 70 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Très Vieille Fine Champagne L.54Y’ (46.6%, OB, Confluences, 566 bottles)

A blend of Grande Champagne (70 + 71) and Petite Champagne 70. Just as a gentle reminder, as part of our noble mission to enlighten the parched masses, Fine Champagne refers to a blend of Petite and Grande Champagne. Colour: deep gold. Nose: exceedingly fresh, bursting with tangerines, linden blossom, honeysuckle, wonderfully ripe melon, Gravenstein apple and a mere droplet of mint honey. Tremendous freshness throughout, you could almost pair this Cognac with fine Indian cuisine, just as a suggestion. Some hints of chen-pi begin to make themselves known thereafter. Mouth: the palate picks up exactly where the nose left off, with all that elegant tension and citrus-led brightness, more floral notes, a whiff of pink pepper (Timut-style) and a touch of melon once more. From Charente, naturally! A fresh and irresistibly charming Cognac, yet underpinned by all the layered complexity its venerable age bestows. Finish: still wonderfully fresh and refined, with a rather splendid acidity that, once again, calls out for a place at the dining table, much like a good wine. Zesty echoes in the aftertaste only confirm as much. Comments: just an idea, perhaps a poularde demi-deuil à la Bocuse, or, and I insist on this, a grand Indian dish. You will have gathered by now that the drinkability index—and by extension, the danger factor—is off the charts.
SGP:741 - 91 points.

JC Saunier ‘Lot 75’ (44%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2025)

This is 100% ugni blanc from Domaine de Sabourat, 29 hectares in the Segonzac area. Colour: amber. Nose: very lovely notes of aniseed that show up straight away, followed by liquorice, then some meadow honey, dried figs, and a few zestier touches of small citrus fruits. It wraps up on gingerbread and a packet of Camel cigarettes—a descriptor we still use freely, as I believe it hasn’t been banned just yet. Mouth: we’re fairly close in style to the previous one, though this one shows a little more toastiness and char, and that tobacco note returns as well. A touch more pepper too, and some Corinthian raisins, which lead us into slightly more ‘digestif’ territory. Hints of pencil shavings, cedarwood… Finish: long, once again with a lovely acidic brightness from the citrus, but also a square of dark chocolate that settles firmly on the aftertaste. Comments: magnificent. Go on then, how about this with a rich chocolate dessert?
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Fine Champagne ‘Hors d’Âge’ (47.8%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 116 bottles, 2025)

An important message to our dear friends abroad who select and bottle Cognac: the word ‘âge’, as in ‘hors d’âge’, takes a circumflex on the ‘a’, which, according to typographic rules, also applies to capital letters, so it’s ‘Hors d’Âge’ and not ‘Hors d’Age’. Apologies for being a proper pedant about these matters. Of course, none of that should detract from the quality of the contents… Colour: deep gold. Nose: zut, we’re clearly back in 90-point territory. This time, the style is a touch more oriental, almost Byzantine, with heaps of orange blossom, figs, dates, and even rose liqueur. Just a drop, mixed in with a touch of liquorice. Mouth: but how good is this! A little simpler than the previous ones, but that’s almost a virtue here, with rosehip tea and those figs still very much leading the charge, nearly evoking one of those premium raki brands you might sip while watching the boats sail up the Bosphorus. Alright, perhaps we’re getting a bit carried away. Finish: long, on peppered fig jam. Comments: here’s another topic for debate—can one even use the word ‘dram’, as in ‘Decadent Drams’, for a spirit that’s not from Scotland? Answers on a postcard, please.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

François Voyer ‘Le Baladeur Lot 79’ (50.4%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re back to a more classic style, closer to slightly scorched walnut cake, mixed raisins of all kinds, orange marmalade, and heather honey, with a touch of mint and liquorice as well. With water: just two drops bring out a wee camphory and patchouli side, followed by those familiar figs we’ve already mentioned several times today. Mouth (neat): blimey, this is good, more on honeyed citrus, with a simpler profile again—but let me stress, that’s a virtue. Milk chocolate filled with orange marzipan. With water: the profile remains the same, citrus still calling the shots, to our immense delight. Acacia honey. Finish: medium length, more honeyed, rounder. The aftertaste is gently chocolatey and liquoricy. Comments: I’m sorry to report that we’ve not managed to separate this one from the others in terms of score. Excellent.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

It’s worth noting that aside from our little apéritifs, we rarely taste anything but the crème de la crème of Cognac – the true ‘malternatives’. But I promise you, one of these days we’ll go scavenging for entry-level bottles from the big houses and do a tasting of the ‘cheapos’. A bit of a change for us… Or who knows – maybe we’ll be pleasantly surprised?

Delamain & Cie ‘Le Rossignol Lot 62’ (54.4%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, cask #755, 198 bottles)

The house of Delamain enjoys quite a high reputation in France, often seen on the lists of top restaurants. Of course, we’re not all that familiar with the ‘early landed’ expressions that also built the house’s name… elsewhere. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is honey, gently blended with a little orange juice and almond milk. Very faint whiffs of natural rubber. With water: curiously turns a touch more rustic, a little more herbaceous. Mouth (neat): very classic, balanced yet taut, a little spicier than the others, and again a touch more herbal. For now… With water: there it is, the fruitiness returns, with Turkish delight and other oriental pastries, though never in an extravagant way. Finish: fairly long, still a little austere and herbaceous. Comments: very, very good, though perhaps slightly overshadowed after all those marvellously fruity ones we’ve just enjoyed. Maybe we ought to have tasted it before the superb Voyer ‘79, but how could one have known?
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Bache-Gabrielsen ‘Founder’s Edition Lot 57’ (46.8%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2025)

This Grande Champagne comes from the ‘Paradis’ cellar of the renowned house of Bache-Gabrielsen. Oh, and 1957—that’s the year of John Coltrane’s Blue Train. And Monk’s Brilliant Corners. And Miles Ahead. And Ben Webster’s Soulville… Colour: amber. Nose: here we are in hyper-classic territory, with praline, overripe apples, very ripe yellow peaches, blackcurrant bud that really commands respect (ahem), almond brittle, and—dare I say it—something reminiscent of old Highland Park from similar vintages (soon on WF). Mouth: this is beautiful, with a little age showing (herbal teas, infusions), but also lovely notes of liquorice wood, peach and apricot skins, walnuts, and a fine touch of tobacco. It’s just important, when tasting this sort of old cognac, to always keep in mind that it’s something ancient and slightly fragile and shouldn’t be pushed about. Nor should we force our grandmothers to dance to Aerosmith or Blue Öyster Cult, should we? You get the idea, I’m sure. Finish: nice length, drifting toward fine aged white wine, like a good Graves blanc or a mature Meursault from the same era. Comments: it’s quite moving to taste these old Cognacs, which have so much to tell us—even if they do speak in hushed tones, and just a little hesitantly.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

A few more – not necessarily from the ‘Champagne’ crus…

Godet 29 yo (43.2%, OB, Borderies, cask #FB2311, 2025)

Some pure ugni blanc from a dry cellar and from old Tronçais oak. This baby was just bottled last month. Colour: golden amber. Nose: a very fine composition of tobacco, leather, and tiny dried raisins, with wafts of violet liquorice in the background—liable to stir all manner of childhood memories—followed by a few very ripe peaches that seem to have just dropped from the tree, a touch of almond oil, and perhaps a hint of pecan, less expressive but very gentle. A lovely nose, very elegant. Mouth: rather lively on the attack, with candied orange, but it quickly shifts to dried figs, dates stuffed with marzipan, and that violet liquorice we mentioned above. The bottling strength is just perfect. Finish: fairly long, a touch saltier, with faint echoes of Spanish ham and a slightly more rustic side that’s utterly charming. Lovely pepper on the aftertaste, which becomes even a notch more rustic. Comments: I love this rather alternative Borderies, almost a little ‘Highlands’ in style, particularly on the palate.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Right then, let’s have a young one now…

Prunier ‘XO’ (49.1%, Swell de Spirits, On Tour #09, Cognac Festival Bordeaux 2025, Petite Champagne)

These are Cognacs of 14 years at the youngest, distilled on the lees and aged in a damp cellar. Do remember, in French ‘XO’ or ‘extra old’ actually means fairly young. It’s a bit like the opposite of cinema actresses, isn’t it. Colour: gold. Nose: naturally more herbaceous, tauter than the older ones, with hay and citrus zest, plus touches of woodruff, fresh mint, and distinctly lovely wormwood. Also a faint touch of Burgundian marc popping up here and there. Mouth: on the palate it’s not worlds apart from the older ones, so it’s rounder, with more stewed and dried fruits, orange marmalade, ripe peaches, dates, and a bit of liquorice wood. Finish: long, more on the orange marmalade. Marmalade with Cognac—does that exist? We’ll have to ask our British friends. A little agave syrup and pink pepper on the aftertaste. Comments: a perfect Cognac for a fine silver hip flask, made for long countryside strolls. I like this a lot. By the way, happy festival, Bordeaux!
SGP:561 - 88 points.

One last one, a particularly symbolic choice, as we’ve just marked the Armistice of the 1914–1918 war this week…

François Voyer ‘La Gardienne Lot 19.14’ (44.9%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

Just forty-two bottles drawn from a demijohn into which this very likely 1914 vintage was transferred in the 1990s, after at least seventy-five years in cask. To be honest, the label with the biplanes leaves little doubt about the vintage. Colour: golden amber. Nose: what a fruit bomb! Without meaning to offend our Cognac friends, we’re very much in the realm of a great old fruity malt—Benriach ’76, Clynelish ’72, Lochside ’66, Bowmore ’64, old Littlemill… It’s loaded with tangerines, melons and mangoes, with a discreet and elegant honeyed touch. Seems the demijohn did an excellent job. Mouth: same impression, it’s precise, utterly unforced, with perfect fruitiness in line with the nose. What were we saying again? Tangerines, melons and mangoes... And a few faint hints of prickly pear and some noble, slightly botrytised old sweet wine. I’ll let you pick your preferred label. Finish: rather long, still on those same fruits, with subtle medicinal, camphory, minty and liquoricy touches. Timut pepper makes more of a showing on the aftertaste, with a light oaky glow. Comments: this magnificent Cognac was clearly distilled after the general mobilisation of August 1914, and it’s highly likely that it was made by women. A true splendour.
SGP:741 - 93 points.

How on earth do you follow that?

(Thank you tout le monde!)

Check the index of all cognacs we've tasted