A little quartet of Lagavulin, some rather secretive


October 27, 2025

A little quartet of Lagavulin, some rather secretive

We get the impression, whether true or not, that distilleries which usually prevent independents from using their names are becoming a bit more relaxed, as we’re seeing more and more subtle (and not-so-subtle) hints appearing on the labels. Mind you, when times get tough, people tend to be a little less fussy... But let’s begin with a proper, official Lagavulin, thankfully free from tequila or any other such 'delights' this time...

Classic combo (2006, WF Archive)

Lagavulin 12 yo 'Grain & Embers' (56.5%, OB, Special Release 2025, refill, PX and oloroso-seasoned casks)

Grains and embers? Well, that does sound rather reassuring, doesn’t it? That said, one must concede that our less whisky-versed friends aren’t entirely wrong when they ask what exactly makes a 12-year-old ‘special’, when a 16-year-old is merely ‘normal’. Answers on a postcard please (looks like no one reads emails anymore). Colour: white wine. Nose: orgeat syrup, lemon preserve, seawater, damp wool, wee touches of tar and smoked salmon, though the whole ensemble strikes me as very mild, very kind, nearly harmless for Lagavulin. With water: more tincture of iodine, Mercurochrome, oysters. Phew! Mouth (neat): pronounced sweetness, perhaps that’s the PX at play? Once again this jammy profile, plum preserve, then more green pepper and dried seaweed, so all in all we’re firmly back on Islay. With water: still sweet, but the DNA is clearly there, even if it’s rather swaddled in softness. One is reminded a little of gentian liqueur. Finish: fairly long, a little more peppery, though still on the sweet side. More ashes towards the back. Comments: this is really good, but I think I liked last year’s version a lot better, which was much freer and more natural (WF 91). I also much prefer, by quite a margin, the 16-year-old. But you’re right, chacun son truc. To be fair, the press release did warn us: this year’s Special Releases were to be “reinterpreted through unconventional cask finishes”. Hmm...
SGP:655 - 85 points.

South Coast Islay Malt 15 yo 2008/2024 (51.8%, Liquid Treasure for The Antelope, Macau, refill hogshead, cask #L0845A)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: this means business, very precise, rich yet controlled, tarry without going overboard, not necessarily Lagavulin either, could just as well be a slightly leaner, less overtly phenolic Ardbeg, with a lovely earthy-citrusy-patchouli combo. With water: hessian sacks, dunnage warehouse, tar, pitch, liquorice, engine oil, old British motorcycle. Mouth (neat): really excellent, though again one hesitates between two distilleries, not that getting it right is the point. Lovely fat peat, saline and lemony, plus faint notes of petrol. I know what you're thinking... With water: superb rooty tension. Finish: long, precise, earthy, with a funny impression of celeriac smoked over peat. Comments: maybe it’s the L at the start of the cask number that’s throwing us off. In any case, this is excellent and thoroughly buries the (not so) Special Release.
SGP:656 - 90 points.

South Coast Islay Malt 18 yo 2007/2025 (56.6%, The Antelope and Kanpaikai, refill hogshead, cask #L0701A)

A Macao–Japan alliance. Sounds like everything should go swimmingly... Colour: pale white wine. Nose: yes, stop, halt everything, dried flowers, autumn twigs (really?) and thyme tisane. Then beechwood smoke rather than peat, beach sand, fresh vinyl, and green pepper straight from the Andromeda Galaxy. It sends the rather modest Special Release ad patres in no time at all. With water: fresh paint, carbolineum, tar, new plastic. Mouth (neat): utterly pristine, superb tar, smoked fish, tobacco, oysters, seawater, olives and a faint touch of—wait—Talisker? Must be the maritime side playing tricks. With water: now we’re truly levelling up. Little black olives, seashells, pepper... Finish: same, and it lasts for quite some time. Comments: we loved the 15, but this is clearly operating on an even higher plane.
SGP:566 - 91 points.

Lagavulin 31 yo 1991/2022 (53.4%, OB, Casks of Distinction for Jimmy Chen, cask #P5C3, 119 bottles)

Colour: dark gold. Nose: a much rounder Lagavulin, jammier, on all manner of dried fruits, raisins galore, though that’s only the beginning, as a slightly wild peat soon breaks through the lid (S., what lid?) to express its smoky and camphory side, becoming increasingly medicinal, heading towards eucalyptus and menthol. With every passing second, it all gets more assertive. With water: and there it is, camphor, leather, mint and “beach” ashes. Mouth (neat): clearly sumptuous, locked in a duel between citrus and saline elements, with ash and tar refereeing, and the dried fruits reduced to mere spectators. What a cask! And don’t count on it mellowing out, it’s a fighter to the end. With water: things go fractal, chartreuse, herbal teas, verbena, camphor, roots, mint, berries, truffles, oysters and assorted shellfish, liquorice... Finish: liquorice takes over completely, Miles Davis style (so what? - ooh that's smart, S.) Comments: gives the impression of a very light, very well-behaved PX influence that never dares contradict the distillate. In the end, it’s the opposite of the 18, yet they stand on exactly the same level, according to your humble servant.
SGP:556 - 91 points.

All we can do now is hope that the 2026 Special Release of Lagavulin is once again up to the extremely high standard of the 2024. I now understand why they promoted the 2025 edition so discreetly, almost sheepishly... (probably just a personal impression) ...

Check the index of all Lagavulin we've tasted