A small collection of grand Mortlachs, second part


January 23, 2025

A small collection of grand Mortlachs, second part

The 15-year-old 1969 from G&M really floored us yesterday—we’ve barely recovered. But that’s not stopping us from tasting a few more Mortlachs, still in ascending age order…

Mortlach 16 yo 2007/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, bourbon hogshead, Summer 2024)

It’s worth noting that the labels for this series are much more classic—and perhaps more aesthetically pleasing—than those of other Decadent Drinks series (SpongeLand and the like). Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s that chalky, lightly yeasty fruitiness reminiscent of the best natural wines that are so fashionable these days. Apples, of course, greengages, redcurrants, rhubarb, even watermelon… A touch of wax and custard wraps it all up, though that’s purely cosmetic. A tiny hint of ham emerges at last, very subtle—it’s not really one of those meaty Mortlachs. Perhaps a small lovage leaf. Mouth: very Mortlachian, without sherry—meaning fatty, oily, fairly waxy too, then with the usual apples and plums, with a touch of natural Champagne this time again (more blanc de noirs in style). Finish: long, fruity, and still quite rich, with a slight peppery touch. Comments: very good, in the spirit of yesterday’s DL bottling. The distillate—and likely the restricted ‘copper contact’—sings in a deep voice.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Mortlach 26 yo 1997/2023 ‘Adversum’ (52.2%, Vintage Bottlers, 1st fill Château Lafite, cask #187207, 120 bottles)

One of the recurring questions with these ‘first fill’ casks from prestigious wines like Lafite is whether they’re simply first used for whisky or if they come directly from the château, where they’ve held only one vintage before usually moving on to less prestigious wineries, as is customary. Colour: amber. Nose: like a very young Bordeaux grand cru, truly, and I regret to inform you that we adore it. So, even if philosophically we might not approve of such a mix, in practice, we find the nose superb. There, I said it. Black cherry clafoutis, gentle liquorice, prunes in Armagnac. The worst part? Lafite-Rothschild indeed has its own Armagnac, a stunning ‘Vieille Réserve’ they’ve been offering for years. We’ll open one of those someday. In short, I must admit that I find this improbable nose magnificent. Perhaps does big Mortlach pair surprisingly well with big Pauillac. With water: glue notes emerge—likely from the nearly new French oak—followed by menthol toffee. Mouth (neat): we won’t deny ourselves the pleasure. While it’s slightly less immediate than the nose, it remains beautiful, with young Cabernet-like bell peppers adding a green edge that complements the meaty and oily malt. With water: a lively battle, as pepper asserts its dominance. Wild raspberry and cherry jam follow. Finish: long, very cherry-forward, with notes of roasted malt and chocolate. Comments: it’s extremely winey, but for once, we’re all for it. After all, who doesn’t love Lafite? Or Mortlach?
SGP:571 - 88 points.

Mortlach 1992/2022 (44.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS22043, 259 bottles)

What a series these ‘rare casks’ are, truly remarkable. And for once, a bottler uses the word ‘rare’ with proper justification… Colour: bronze gold. Nose: great fun, this comes from a ‘deviant’ cask, meaning you feel something unusual has occurred—though that doesn’t mean it’s not delightful. Quite the opposite here, as finding rye, gingerbread, speculoos, almond milk, putty, and mint liqueur in an old Mortlach is… an excellent surprise. In short, this is an already rare Mortlach made even rarer. You do wonder what happened to it tough—perhaps a nail? A patch? A valinch or copperdog accidentally fell in? Mouth: blood oranges, earthy tones, dark tobacco, roasted pistachios, then what could very well stem from the fresh distillate—grilled bacon and beef broth. All quite mysterious, but very enjoyable. Finish: honey-glazed ham, tobacco, and dark nougat. Plenty of cloves, rosemary, and pine resin sweets in the aftertaste. Comments: oh, if only this entertaining old Mortlach could talk…
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Mortlach 32 yo 1991/2023 (54.1%, Signatory Vintage, 35th Anniversary, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #4241, 580 bottles)

I had saved this gem for a special occasion. What kind of occasion, you ask? Well, to paraphrase Hester Brown, having a Mortlach like this in one’s collection is a special occasion in itself. Colour: gold. Nose: ah, ferns, wisteria, lily of the valley, Alsatian orange biscuits (why not?), cassata, orange blossom, sultanas, then a touch of ham fat and beeswax… This is lofty, complex, and truly perfect. Whiffs of an old wine cellar. With water: amusingly, it tightens up a little with notes of furniture polish, linseed oil, plasticine, absinthe, and walnut oil. No doubt the sherry influence—this walnut oil note. Mouth (neat): magnificent, with pine and orange, buds and peels, and that signature fattiness still intact after all these years. With water: resinous elements take centre stage, yet beautifully so, in the style of an old Chartreuse. Amen. Finish: long, with more fruitiness re-emerging, shaped by the cask but in no way intrusive—on the contrary. A mentholated tobacco note lingers in the aftertaste, or as Gainsbourg might have said, "Kool au Menthol." Comments: what a shame—we polished off all the 1969 G&M yesterday, or we could have compared them. S., you amateur!
SGP:561 - 91 points.

We'll stop here. Adios for now, Beast of Dufftown.

Check the index of all Mortlach we've tasted so far