A toast of Armagnac to the world’s good health


April 6, 2025

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A toast of Armagnac to the world’s
good health

(In honour of the penguins of the Heard and McDonald Islands)

The oldest of aged spirits! Armagnac has seen its fair share of ups and downs over more than seven centuries — and it seems the story isn’t over yet. If we know how to listen, it might just have a few pearls of wisdom to whisper in our ear…

Sauvis 2004/2024 (45.9%, Domaine de Saoubis, Bas-armagnac, pièce, cask #69)

We’re in Ayzieu-en-Armagnac, near Eauze, and this is proper biodynamic armagnac, 100% folle blanche and entirely fermented with native yeasts. We’ve already tried a 100% baco from the same domaine and it had been excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: this is wonderfully fragrant, in the style of an orange loaf cake strewn with grated zest and a few muscat raisins, then come dried figs, a splash of cinnamon liqueur and some fir honey, slightly resinous. Very gentle, very pretty, just as the world needs, really. Could they ship a few bottles to Washington, cash on delivery? Mouth: more on roasted notes now, with some smoky, toasty, even slightly burnt elements, yet also rather sappy. Zests of all sorts soon coat the whole palate. Finish: long, once again veering towards the softer side rather than the opposite. Peaches, apricots and a comeback from the fir honey. A discreet woody touch in the aftertaste. Comments: absolutely impeccable, most seductive yet never overly so.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Sauvis 2001/2024 (44.4%, Domaine de Saoubis, Bas-armagnac, pièce, cask #107)

Same combo, folle blanche, biodynamic, etc. The theory would suggest we’re not far from the 2004. Colour: gold. Nose: we are indeed in similar territory but this one’s a little riper and more tertiary, with blond tobacco coming through alongside a host of herbal teas and infusions—linden, thyme and the like. A few notes of fir bud and a scattering of rose petals. It’s all very lovely, very slightly oriental. Ah, the mysteries of the East… Mouth: more firmness here, with beautifully polished wood, a light resinous quality, roasted pine nuts, black tea (what we used to call Russian tea) and once again blond tobacco (which used to be called American, didn’t it). A charming touch of oak neatly frames the whole. Finish: fruitier again, jammy but with grace, tapering off on spices and once more a roasted, empyreumatic side. Comments: dangerously adorable. If you ever own a bottle, best put a padlock on the cork after a few glasses and toss away the key.
SGP:661 - 90 points.

Hontambère 26 yo 1997/2025 (53.8%, Grape of the Art, Ténarèze, cask #B4, 295 bottles)

This time it is 100% ugni blanc. Hontambère also has a very fine range of négociant-matured armagnacs. Colour: deep gold. Nose: for now, this leans a little more towards a cognac, even though it’s a Ténarèze. Beautiful elegance, ripe apples, vineyard peaches, sultanas, blood oranges, and a faint chalky touch… But a drop of water may shift the profile. With water: potpourri and honeydews, a hint of light tobacco, a wee dab of butterscotch. Nothing to complain about. Mouth (neat): rather rich, on exotic spices, orange blossom and even maple syrup. Very lovely honeys (plural intended). With water: in comes mint, eucalyptus and even some camphoraceous notes, yet always delivered with finesse and gentleness. It moves on to praline and still a trace of maple syrup, and I’m even finding tiny flashes of chen-pi—you know, those sun-dried mandarin peels. Finish: lovely length, with a beautiful camphory sweetness, citrusy pepperiness and a slightly more herbal aftertaste. Comments: should be tasted blind alongside great malts, just for fun. Superb.
SGP:661 - 91 points.

Michel Tartas 1992/2024 (43.2%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-armagnac)

This one is 100% baco, from Arthez d’Armagnac. I’d never heard of this domaine before and there’s not much to be found online, but we place great trust in the house of Authentic Spirits. Colour: gold. Nose: extremely close in style to the previous one, and once again we’re drifting a little towards Cognac territory, though with a gentle breeze from the Bosphorus. Glorious peaches, melon, mandarin blossom honey, juicy sultanas, very ripe apricots, Turkish delights and wisps of fresh mint… It’s really beautiful! Mouth: medicinal citrus! Basically, oranges sprinkled with a few drops of iodine tincture, pine resin and mint extract. Unstoppable. Finish: long given the strength, magnificent, growing ever more complex and, once again, a little oriental. Loads of orange blossom. Comments: splendid, and at €75, it’ll bear the full brunt of the tariffs imposed by any self-important drunken tardigrades.
SGP:661 - 91 points.

Jean Cavé 1990/2024 (51%, Swell de Spirits, Flashback, Armagnac, 236 bottles)

The well-known house of Jean Cavé is based in Lannepax, in the Gers. This is a multi-varietal armagnac and possibly a blend of several crus, as it carries the broader Armagnac appellation. Which, of course, doesn’t prove anything conclusive—but it’s a clue, nonetheless. Colour: full gold. Nose: a complete U-turn, we’re now firmly in the world of varnishes, bourbon, even solvents, kirsch, stone fruits, bitter almonds and resins… With water: it calms down just a little, but only just. Cardboard, basalt, resins, snapped branches, bitter almond… Mouth (neat): a slightly unhinged armagnac, still on varnish, resin, cherry… With water: remains taut and edges into malt whisky territory, with a slightly herbal profile. Very surprising. Finish: long, rather earthy, on humus and mushrooms. Comments: a creature quite unlike the others, almost like a very old bottle unearthed from somewhere. You can always count on Swell de Spirits to come up with distinctive spirits that are, above all, never—absolutely never—boring. And we’re very fond of this one too.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

Hontambère 1982/2024 (52.7%, Pouchégu Collection, Ténarèze, cask #F2)

Back at Hontambère. This one is 100% ugni blanc. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: that varnishy profile returns, a touch of bourbon, even a bit of fresh glue before we head into stone fruit territory—mirabelles, cherries, apricots—alongside a whiff of chartreuse and, would you believe it, even a hint of pastis. But truly the tiniest trace… With water: it softens a little, showing some marzipan. Mouth (neat): it grabs your tongue just a bit, as old Ténarèze often do in our humble experience, and continues to toss out glue and varnish, bitter almond, rustic kirsch, and apricot eau-de-vie (think maestro Capovilla’s kind) … With water: still very much in the ‘eau-de-vie’ camp, with stones, kirsch, snapped twigs and such. Rather incredible. Finish: long, taut, on liquorice wood, leather and… varnish. A faintly saline edge in the aftertaste. Comments: some local aficionados claim this is exactly how armagnac should be—rustic and rooted in its terroir. Perhaps so, but either way, this is top class.
SGP:461 - 90 points.

Jean Cavé 1979/2024 (54.8%, Swell de Spirits, Field Trip, Armagnac, 200 bottles)

One can’t help but wonder what connection there is between this old armagnac and the sea trout depicted on the label. Just asking. Perhaps is it for the penguins of the Heard and McDonald Islands? Colour: deep gold. Nose: now this is another dimension entirely, far more tertiary, with roasted pineapple, pipe tobacco, potting soil, model glue, sauna oils, eucalyptus and, right at the end, a drop of turpentine essence. Believe it or not, there are even hints of agricole rum. With water: puffs of old cellar and bruised apple. Mouth (neat): oh yes, we’re clearly in evolved territory now, on strange infusions, polish, orgeat, sesame oil, old waxes, maraschino… With water: it holds up, turns slightly earthy, with tobacco, concentrated orange juice, mocha and chocolate. Finish: fairly long, mature but genuine (what that means, S.?) A touch of bitterness. Comments: these old spirits must be treated with due reverence and respect, even if they’re probably no longer fit to run a 100m dash. Then again, neither are we.
SGP:462 - 86 points.

One for the road, before we stray too far…

Château de Gaube 1964/2024 (43.2%, Baron de Lustrac, for 10th Anniversary Wine4you, Bas-armagnac)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: we’re firmly in old-school territory this time, all on jams and all manner of nuts, roasted or otherwise, mostly pecans, praline, with faint meaty hints, a tiny glimmer of metal and a touch of soot, medlars and quinces… It’s overall an elegant nose, perhaps just a tad shy, also offering figs of the lovelier sort… well, awesome. And some mead. Mouth: you do feel the age, but not necessarily the wisdom, as this chap still speaks up, even if the wood is slowly tightening its grip. Teas, cinnamon, furniture polish, a few drops of fir bud liqueur, a touch of pipe tobacco, and date spirit… Finish: of medium length, fairly woody, not quite dusty yet, with dried fig, a little lavender and some black tea. Slight pepperiness in the aftertaste. Comments: a very charming old-style armagnac, evolved and cerebral. Sorry, couldn’t think of a better word.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Well, it would seem that it’s the younger — or rather, the less aged — Armagnacs that have called the shots today.

Check the index of all armagnacs we've tasted so far