A vertical lineup of 21 Karuizawa, none of which had ever graced our glasses before


December 31, 2025

A vertical lineup of 21 Karuizawa, none of which had ever graced our glasses before

As we had promised, perhaps a touch naively, but hey! We had originally planned to publish this session in several parts, grouped by decade of distillation, but then we thought, after all, this is Whiskyfun, is it not, so here we go with the full version…

(AI slop just for fun, hope the kanji aren't offensive, provided they even mean something)

Karuizawa 1999-2000/2015 'Asakusa Hong-An-Qi Temple' (59.5%, OB, batch 2)

A fair number of casks from Karuizawa’s final vintages were eventually vatted together, most notably from 1999 and 2000. The original owners had even released a few 2001s, 12 years old, now as rare as a quiet Monday morning. Colour: dark gold. Nose: straight off the bat, it's peanut butter and roasted hazelnuts galore, with toasted wood chiming in behind, then the faintest murmurs of hydrocarbons—subtle, almost whispering. With water: the malt steps into the spotlight, unadorned and earthy, with a hint of cedarwood lending a Japanese temple kind of grace. Mouth: rather brutal at first, but then, wham, you're clouted by a volley of hyper-acidic wee citrus fruits—yuzu, finger lime, even a touch of calamansi perhaps—cutting cleanly through the richness and keeping everything fabulously fresh. With water: the malt and the oak now get their chance to shine, though the latter’s starting to dry things out a tad. Finish: medium in length, well poised, with peanuts and citrus making a cheerful comeback, then a faint chocolatey afterglow that whispers of one of those old Chamonix orange biscuits—remember those little marvels? Comment: slightly odd to suggest a Karuizawa as something of an apéritif, but frankly, that's exactly where this one leans, if you ask me. We’re not quite in the dazzling territory of the grand old vintages yet.
SGP: 551 - 85 points.

Karuizawa 1999-2000/2016 'The back of Fuji from the Minobu river' (59.7%, OB, batch 6)

This series, grandly titled ‘36 Views of Minobu-gawa ura Fuji’, consisted of thirty-six different releases depicting Mount Fuji, and by the time they appeared, Karuizawa had already soared into the stratosphere of collectability, so precious few have been actually opened since. Colour: dark gold. Nose: much more expressive than expected, bursting straight away with citrus and a proper orange marmalade from a reputable preserve-maker, all laced with discreet but classy notes of camphor and menthol. A Karuizawa that remains rather uncomplicated yet boasts a lovely clean profile. With water: an orange loaf served with green Earl Grey—think Japanese afternoon tea at five sharp, minus the fuss. Mouth: powerful stuff, totally dominated by citrus, especially pink grapefruit. One is reminded of those splendid young Rosebanks from days of yore. Also a dash of bitter orange lurking in the background. With water: not much change, which is a relief, it merely gains a little creaminess, before the subtlest hints of rooty and aniseed notes start to glimmer. Finish: long, zesty, invigorating, and still gloriously citrus-led. Comment: the casks must have been handled with a light touch—this is clearly a notch above, and the progression is undeniable.
SGP: 651 - 88 points.

Karuizawa 1999-2000/2017 'Cellar Book' (61.4%, OB, LMDW, Geisha Label, refill sherry cask, 324 bottles)

Many Karuizawas came adorned with ravishing Geisha portraits, and I must confess, seeing a full set proudly displayed by a collector was rather more aesthetically pleasing than many a modern gallery wall. We’re not expecting a heavy sherry stamp here, given this came from a refill cask. Colour: dark gold. Nose: citrus is still in the frame but plays a supporting role this time, while roasted nuts—hazelnuts, pecans, peanuts, even a touch of walnut—take centre stage. It all sits beautifully, particularly with delicate herbal inflections of fennel and dill adding lift. With water: dare I say it evokes a proper artisanal pastis, perhaps from the Jura or deep Provence? There’s even something creamy about it, nose and all, plus scattered crumbs of those lovely Swiss cumin and anise biscuits. Mouth: citrus makes a spirited comeback—zests, marmalades, preserves—joined by apricots and a whisper of pistachio, and suddenly we’re perched in Sicily, sipping some mysterious liqueur a local nonna keeps under lock and key. With water: no dramatic shifts, which is just as well—liquid citrus peel mingled with gentle spice, a dusting of ginger, turmeric and a dash of maraschino. Finish: medium in length but the maraschino starts to assert itself more firmly, adding a candied cherry gloss. Comment: I suspect these releases from about a decade ago have benefited immensely from a gentle rest, with time doing its quiet polishing work.
SGP: 551 - 89 points.

Karuizawa 1999/2011 'Vintage' (58.9%, OB, Number One Drinks for LMDW, sherry butt, cask #867)

Whereas the 1999s were often vatted with 2000, here we have a ‘pure’ vintage, bottled in its rather green youth. Judging by the robe, this one’s clearly taken a deep dive into the sherry bath—far more so than the three multi-vintage expressions just sampled. Colour: light mahogany. Nose: an all-out barrage of wood glue, walnut stain, pipe tobacco and prunes, quickly joined by tar, chocolate truffles and, since we’re in Japan, a respectful nod to umeshu. There’s even a flicker of Chinese hoisin sauce, though it feels a few years off from making its real presence known. With water: a faint sulphury note darts in, but vanishes just as swiftly, leaving behind a playground of umami delights—MSG may be scorned at table, but in the glass it often works wonders. Soy sauce, oyster sauce, and the darkest of dark chocolates. Mouth: bold, spicy, unashamedly chocolaty, with pronounced notes of walnut liqueur, worn leather and strong pipe tobacco. Yet the citrus peeks through, perhaps as orangettes, those delightful slivers of orange peel dunked in dark chocolate. That said, in our humble experience, these ‘sherry monsters’ often get a touch petulant with water on the palate, so let’s see... With water: it does dry out a little—as they often do—revealing more bitter cocoa and well-worn leather. Finish: long, with proper bitters, and even a suggestion of dry vermouth—perhaps Noilly Prat, if we’re being precise. Comment: one for pairing with scallops, perhaps?
SGP: 461 - 87 points.

Karuizawa 1999/2016 'Geisha in Sherry Blossom' (58.6%, OB, sherry, cask #895, 320 bottles)

Arguably one of the most renowned of the late-vintage Karuizawas, if not the most revered, and judging by the relatively moderate hue, one suspects a bit more restraint and freshness here, despite the formidable strength. Colour: dark gold. Nose: glorious entrance on orgeat, natural rubber, pistachio oil and tiny seashells, all gently coated in orange blossom honey—applied with a feather, not a ladle. Add to that some sweet Virginia tobacco, a handful of dried fruits and a mere ghost of smoke, and one cannot help but think—loudly—of a certain Speyside distillery beginning with “M”, back in its heyday last century. With water: a freshly opened box of Cuban cigars—you may pick your brand. Mouth: utterly grand, expansive yet dignified, with a measured delivery of luxurious bitterness to start—think Italian green walnut liqueur (nocino)—then a cascade of dried figs, Medjool dates, Corinthian raisins and candied citron. Pure delight. With water: herbal spice now takes the wheel, with fresh mint and an almost mischievous twist of Thai basil making a graceful appearance. Finish: long, though once water enters the fray the oak edges forward slightly, but that’s a common development, and merely feeds the eternal question: to add water or not to add water? Comment: I’d never in a million nosings have pegged this as a 1999, but then again, it wouldn’t be the first time I’ve been spectacularly wrong. Could easily pass for an early 1980s vintage...
SGP: 562 - 91 points.

Karuizawa 30 yo 1987/2017 'Aqua of Life' (57.5%, OB, sherry butt, cask #2253, 292 bottles)

Karuizawa 30 yo 1987/2017 'Aqua of Life' (57.5%, OB, sherry butt, cask #2253, 292 bottles)
This one’s referred to as the ‘White’ edition, as there also exists a ‘Black’ variant from another cask (number 3655). The world of collectible whisky can be wonderfully straightforward at times, can’t it. I’ve not tasted many 1987s to date, though I do recall a much younger 15-year-old from the same vintage that was, shall we say, rather rustic. Worth noting that part of these casks had previously been drawn and released by the former owners in wee flat 25cl bottles. Colour: dark amber. Nose: sherry influence is clearly more pronounced again, though not in a prune-heavy direction—the wood is quite talkative here. Slightly earthy, with hints of rubber, paraffin oil, then dark chocolate and pipe tobacco, alongside ginger and a dash of ginseng. With water: charming camphor and fresh putty emerge, lending an extra touch of class. Mouth: more effective on the palate, though still showing a certain rustic edge—earthy, with olive oil, bitter orange, and a trace of sea salt. Have we used the word “rustic” already? With water: a gentler evolution this time, nothing dramatic. Finish: medium length, a little peppery, slightly sweet, with a hint of preserve, and that ginger note lingering in the aftertaste. Comment: that splendid 1999 cask number 895 rather stole its thunder, proving that greatness in spirits doesn’t always come with age. That said, still a cracking bottle.
SGP: 651 - 87 points.

Karuizawa 30 yo 1984/2015 (57.7%, OB, Artifices Series by Warren Khong, LMDW, sherry, cask #5410)

A ravishing bottle, all understated elegance, but let’s focus on what truly matters—the contents—especially since the 1984 vintage enjoys a near-mythical reputation at Karuizawa. Colour: light amber. Nose: we are flung headlong into the aether, in every conceivable sense—a nose of absolute splendour, staggeringly simple yet possessing a sort of fractal complexity, where each initial aroma—say, ink or fresh oil paint—immediately splinters into a thousand sub-aromas, which themselves multiply into even finer nuances. This, dear reader, is what we call a fractal nose, and here’s as fine an example as you’ll find. With water: and it keeps going—parsley, lovage, sage, borage—one herb leading to another like falling dominoes in an old apothecary. Right. Mouth: we’ve been whisked away to Islay now, where someone’s gone and vatted late 1960s Bowmore with 1970s Ardbeg and a splash of Port Ellen from whichever vintage you fancy. Astonishing freshness and tension wrapped around lemons, coal tar and a breath of sea breeze. With water: what can one say, except that we’re brushing the very edges of perfection, with more than a whisper of that other dearly missed legend, Brora. Finish: not terribly long, perhaps, but achingly fresh and uncannily cohesive, as if the whisky had been tuned to perfect pitch. Comment: it is a profound shame that Karuizawa cannot meet the same fate as Brora or Port Ellen—rebuilt, reborn, and, to borrow a phrase from our Ileach friends, speaking to us once more.
SGP: 563 - 94 points.

Karuizawa 29 yo 1983/2013 (54.3%, OB, Noh Label, bourbon cask, cask #8552, 130 bottles)

Another towering vintage from Karuizawa, though of course the notion of ‘vintage’ here is rather academic—it all comes down to which parcels and casks made their way to market, whether as single casks or small batches. That said, it’s always a pleasure to encounter a bourbon cask, which in theory gives the distillate more room to speak for itself. Colour: yellow gold. Nose: perhaps the most ‘Scottish’ of the lot so far, with an orchard fruit and subtle oiliness combo that’s downright perfect, even if touches of incense and balsa wood quickly rise to the fore. Olive oil again, pink grapefruit, fresh putty, along with some soft overripe apples, jujubes, and even fully matured medlars—what a shame those have all but vanished from our hedgerows. At any rate, we’re in the presence of a glorious nose, very “Highlands” in character. With water: the oily components grow stronger—putty, olive oil, paraffin wax, all humming in unison. Mouth: rich yet surgical, compact as an older Swiss chronometer and just as precise, on apple, mango and sesame oil, with a shimmering balance of honeyed and saline touches. Everything falls into place with unnerving grace. With water: a coastal edge now emerges, and I swear we’re nearly catapulted to Orkney—I’m even getting oyster notes, and I’m not prone to dramatising. Finish: fairly long, and since we’ve been drawing parallels to Scotland already, let’s just say this now veers into “old Highland Park” territory. Comment: the only real question left is whether we’ll manage to dip back under 90 points before this remarkable session comes to a close.
SGP: 552 - 93 points.

Karuizawa 29 yo 1983/2013 (59.4%, OB, Noh Label, sherry hogshead, cask #5322, 205 bottles)

Just to double-check whether 1983 really was a great vintage at Karuizawa. Only joking. That said, those Noh masks are of such unfathomable beauty... Colour: light amber. Nose: the sherry’s polite but assertive from the outset, with green walnut, raisins and a dab of sweet mustard, but the distillate, gloriously waxy and oily, soon takes command, to our great delight. This cask does feel just a touch more rustic than its splendid cousin, #8552. Beyond that, thoughts inevitably drift once more to that beloved distillery on Orkney, in similar or slightly older vintages. And now—yes—heather honey enters the chat. With water: a fine appearance of camphor, eucalyptus and menthol, all stepping forward with poise. Mouth: the Japanese side reasserts itself here, with flickers of horseradish invigorating a rich, honeyed and texturally weighty profile. Splashes of sea water and a trace of smoky brine only serve to reinforce the structure. With water: now the citrus charges in, dressed in honey and olive oil, forming what I’d call a near-perfect ensemble—something approaching the spirit of an Italian Renaissance still life, if you'll forgive the flourish. Finish: good length, more resinous and oily, with citrus returning alongside hints of seawater. Comment: impossible to pick a winner between this “Noh” and its sibling. We remain firmly in the... aether.
SGP: 552 - 93 points.

Karuizawa 1983/2014 'White Samurai' (59.1%, Number One Drinks, for Specialty Drinks, sherry butt)

A third 1983, purely for the sake of scientific rigour. More seriously, Specialty Drinks (The Whisky Exchange), much like La Maison du Whisky in France, played a major role in elevating Karuizawa to the status of malt whisky grand cru. The fact that only around three hundred casks remained when the Western world began to take notice certainly didn’t hurt the cultish rise either. But let’s not forget the quality itself... Colour: dark amber. Nose: well now, we’re nearly whisked off to Jamaica, into the realm of great molasses-based pot still rums—acetone, olives, burnt sugar, a touch of carbon—the whole bundle lingering for a good thirty seconds before orchard fruits, wrapped in honey and mint, reclaim the stage. And here comes a sherry that leans more Amontillado, perhaps even Palo Cortado. With water: a merry dance of umami—fermented sauces, oyster, soy, malt extract, even a whiff of Viandox—and yes, kitchen sherry, though the proper kind. Mouth: a powerful surge of lemon, seawater, varnish, paraffin, chestnut honey and tobacco, intense but coherent. With water: it rounds out beautifully, becoming even more honeyed and unctuous, with roasted chestnuts and all manner of brothy warmth. One can’t help but think of those outrageously flavourful Japanese instant noodles that cost next to nothing and deliver maximum joy. Finish: long, saline, resinous, waxy, and almost fermentary by the end, marvellous stuff. Comment: let’s hope the Shizuoka distillery, now home to one of Karuizawa’s stills, one day manages to reach these dizzying heights.
SGP: 462 - 94 points.

Karuizawa 1981/2011 'Vintage' (56.6%, OB, for LMDW, cask #7924)

After those early 1981s from the early 2000s, this was one of the very first bottles to begin securing Karuizawa’s place among the stars, before speculation sent values into full-blown orbit. 2011, incidentally, was the year Number One Drinks purchased the final three hundred casks. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: you’d be forgiven for guessing, blind, that this was a rather splendid old agricole rum, Neisson, perhaps. Highly floral to begin with—hibiscus, ylang-ylang—then comes a wave of very ripe bananas, and then, amusingly, a little cabbage soup and a touch of black truffle. With water: a character emerges that’s somewhat sulphury in the Mortlach style—a style that enjoys many devoted fans, me included, I should say. Mouth: that agricole vibe continues, joined by sandalwood, pink peppercorns, tamarind jam, prunes steeped in Armagnac and the faintest hint of wood varnish. Then out trots the walnut wine, dragging behind it a generous slab of salty liquorice, just the way our Scandinavian friends like it. With water: citrus steps in to restore order—bitter orange, marmalade, the full British breakfast spread. A bit of tannic grip begins to show too, with notes of heavily steeped black tea and bitter cocoa nibs. Finish: long, very dry, with more black tea, even more liquorice root, and a firm handshake from the oak. Comment: the wood is certainly assertive here, with a touch of astringency, but the whole remains utterly delightful.
SGP: 561 - 90 points.

Karuizawa 1981/2013 'Black Label' (60.3%, OB, 1st fill sherry cask, cask #6056, 348 bottles)

The 1981 vintage was bottled frequently and is perhaps the most recognisable of all Karuizawas. It offered an impressively wide range of aromas and flavours, largely dictated by the cask selection involved. Colour: dark amber. Nose: it opens in rather straightforward fashion—raisins, dates, maple syrup—before gradually shifting into more eccentric terrain, with fresh paint, almond milk, and a scattering of earthy, liquoricy touches. That said, it does feel somewhat locked up, most likely due to the hefty strength. With water: things spring to life—herbs, spices and terpene elements lead the charge, joined by beef jerky, teriyaki sauce and a fine shaving of cedarwood. Mouth: explosive and not a million miles from a punchy young bourbon, which is not entirely surprising given the nature of some ‘sherry monsters’ at full blast. Let’s not forget that the vast majority of sherry casks are in fact made from American oak. So we’re getting varnish, coconut, roasted peanuts, vanilla and nutmeg, quite the cocktail. With water: now come the resins, saps, saline strokes and just a hint of tar, rounding things out beautifully. Finish: long, slightly rustic, but let’s remember this magnificent Karuizawa was still a relative youth at thirty-one or thirty-two years of age. Comment: absolutely gorgeous, though one senses it still had a few more years in the tank if someone had let it sleep.
SGP: 562 - 91 points.

Karuizawa 31 yo 1981/2013 (56%, Noh Label, sherry butt, cask #155, 595 bottles)

Here we are again with those splendid Noh masks, which—let’s be honest—do have a tendency to terrify small children. Fortunately, they bear no resemblance whatsoever to the sentiments of those tasting this glorious series. Colour: amber. Nose: a sublime wisp of smoke, beeswax, fine cigars, furniture polish, putty, camphor, orange marmalade and fig liqueur. Fresher and more articulate than the previous dram, though in fairness there’s a considerable gap between 61% and 56% ABV. In short, a superlative nose. With water: no real change at this point, which is perfectly fine. Mouth: instant, irresistible pleasures—marmalade, yellow fruit jams, mirabelle plums, banana and quince. A palate that’s almost simple, even minimalist, verging on the Bauhaus. Admirable indeed. With water: now dangerously drinkable. Imagine a marriage of bitter orange liqueur and yellow Chartreuse, sipped atop a slice of quince paste just like grandma used to make. Finish: fairly long and an effortless continuation of the palate, the only shift being a gradual slide from Chartreuse towards a vintage Bénédictine. Comment: a magnificent bottle, and almost easy-drinking by Karuizawa standards. The smoke from the first nosing faded gently into the background.
SGP: 651 - 92 points.

Karuizawa 1981/2014 'Black Samurai' (63.4%, Number One Drinks for Specialty Drinks, sherry cask, cask #4943, 119 bottles)

The sibling to the extraordinary 1983 “Black Samurai”. The very dark colour suggests some serious extraction, and that lofty ABV—remarkable for a thirty-three-year-old—hints at a cask that has clung on for dear life. Colour: light mahogany. Nose: chocolate-dipped candied oranges take the reins immediately, allowing only fleeting whispers of herbal tea—chamomile, mint, orange blossom. It feels tight, but a dash of water should coax it open. With water: and indeed, it blossoms beautifully. More infusions—lime blossom, thyme—alongside touches of smoked ham and, quite possibly, some lovingly aged jamon iberico carved straight from the bone. Mouth: massive. Old Armagnac (Ténarèze style), kirsch, Black Forest gâteau, rolling tobacco, heavy liquorice, concentrated peppermint oil—the full artillery. With water: mint chocolate now takes centre stage, chased by an old-school cough syrup that oddly completes the picture. Finish: long, drier now, with lingering dark chocolate and mint. The kirsch makes a stylish encore in the aftertaste. Comment: one might almost mistake this for a venerable Ténarèze in a blind tasting—not inattentiveness, simply testament to the sheer breadth and depth of this astonishing dram.
SGP: 571 - 93 points.

Karuizawa 35 yo 1981/2016 'Eight Headed Dragon' (54.4%, OB, sherry, cask #171, 530 bottles)

It’s probably about time we acknowledged just how wonderfully these Karuizawas serve as a panoramic journey through Japanese art and culture—woodblock prints, ink wash painting, theatre, the Edo period, mythology... and now we’re face to face with Yamata no Orochi, the legendary eight-headed serpent, who seems poised to unsettle us. Fortunately, the whisky should restore balance. Colour: dark gold. Nose: rather discreet on the sherry front, and all the purer for it—a beautifully clean profile that almost suggests a bourbon cask, with a seamless weave of citrus, mango, olive oil, mint and fir honey. So perfect it’s almost dull—almost. Just joking, of course. With water: mint tea with pine nuts wafts in, alongside a few fresh walnuts, presumably courtesy of the sherry cask finally stretching its legs. Mouth: an amusing start of white chocolate and acacia honey, swiftly overtaken by resinous wood, southern olive oil and oolong tea. Sublime balance, and frankly, confiscatory in the sense that it robs you of any desire to criticise. There’s nothing to critique anyway. With water: now veering into the style of an old Speysider matured in a third or fourth-fill sherry cask. Strong echoes of that extraordinary 85-year-old Glenlivet from Gordon & MacPhail we were recently lucky enough to taste. Finish: fairly long, thoroughly classic, on warm apple tart drizzled with honey and a dusting of cinnamon. The mint tea lingers softly in the aftertaste. Comment: perhaps one of the most “Scottish” Karuizawas in character, and therefore one of the least exotic—though no less legendary.
SGP: 551 - 94 points.

Karuizawa 35 yo 1981/2016 'Snow Scenes The Tale of Genji' (57.2%, OB, sherry cask, cask #7427, 208 bottles)

A very rare release for Taiwan, where the malt whisky culture is arguably among the most developed anywhere in the world. This same cask was also bottled under the “Geisha Label” (162 bottles), the liquid almost certainly being identical. Colour: amber. Nose: dominated at first by milk chocolate and a certain well-known hazelnut spread of Italian origin that we shall tactfully avoid naming. Beneath that, a composite chorus of cooked ham, new rubber, lemon marmalade, grapeseed oil, leeks and black truffle. A faint sulphurous thread too, but one that seems rooted in the distillate rather than the wood. With water: not a world of change, though there’s a bit of mutton suet, ski wax and paraffin lamp oil sneaking in. Mouth: again that fatty texture, paraffinic and slightly sulphury, in a style reminiscent of some of the great distilleries from Scotland’s west coast—Ben Nevis, Springbank—rather glorious, actually. Saline edges, a touch of hydrocarbon, grapefruit... With water: personality in spades, with an incoming tide of maritime notes, somewhere between oysters and whelks. Finish: long, oily, and perfectly poised between rich salinity and perky citrus, which lifts the whole and adds a sense of cheerful dynamism. Comment: the polar opposite of the Eight-Headed Dragon, and yet I’d place them on exactly the same exalted tier—within a single point, if you will.
SGP: 562 - 94 points.

Karuizawa 39 yo 1974/2013 'Vintage' (57.2%, OB, Number One Drinks, ex-sherry, cask #6409, 169 bottles)

After the 1980s, we now find ourselves among the rarer vintages still. Incidentally, there are whispers of several Japanese companies attempting to revive the Karuizawa name, with a scattering of new distilleries springing up at the foot of Mount Asama. But definitive information remains elusive, as many of these projects have a tendency to remain just that—projects. Colour: coppery bronze. Nose: baskets of windfall fruit—mirabelles, apples, pears—all mingling with the scent of damp earth after the season’s first summer rainfall. Dates and figs arrive in time but never overwhelm; there’s no aromatic traffic jam here. Complexity is wonderful, but only up to a point. With water: suddenly we’re in the realm of great old Sauternes from truly majestic vintages. For a wine lover, this is borderline surreal. Mouth: far tauter than the previous expressions, with unexpected flashes of lemon verbena, absinthe, lime, fir honey and green walnut. At nearly forty years of age, it’s nothing short of spectacular. With water: the citrus tension dazzles—utterly brilliant. Finish: not the longest, perhaps, but finding Corsican cédrat in a very old Japanese malt is an experience that borders on the sublime. Comment: the idea of a “grand cru” in whisky may be a touch fanciful, and I gladly plead guilty here, but this 1974 is unquestionably one of the finest grands crus whisky has to offer.
SGP: 661 - 95 points.

Karuizawa 1972/2011 'Vintage' (63.3%, OB, Number One Drinks, sherry butt, cask #7038, 523 bottles)

1972 was an exceptional year in Scotland, though we’ve yet to pin down exactly why. Was it better wood? A whisky loch effect? A bumper barley crop in 1971? Or are we just imagining things? At any rate, we’ve only previously tasted one Karuizawa from this vintage, the splendid cask #7290. Colour: gold. Nose: the resins are back—fresh putty, quince, oil paint, linseed oil—plus wee mangos and, quite astonishingly, wild strawberries. Totally unexpected, yet unmistakably present. Astoundingly fresh. With water: sauna oil, teak oil, a tiny drop of turpentine—pure cabinetmaker’s workshop. Mouth: we’re now in dangerous territory, the sort that throws your whole system of appreciation and scoring into question. Sheer beauty. Bushels of oranges and mandarins, saline touches, whirlpools of herbs and berries—both garden-grown and foraged—and even, believe it or not, the tiniest nod of black garlic. With water: it retreats a little, but that’s no fault, what emerges now is simply a beautifully poised, very old-style sherry. Finish: fairly long, more chocolaty now, with tobacco and coffee stepping in—back into classic territory. Comment: we really thought it might rise to the level of the incredible 1974. A quick reminder that the Jacksonian scoring scale we've always used is generally four to five points lower than Robert Parker’s—so a 93 here is roughly a 98/100 in 'RP terms'.
SGP: 661 - 93 points.

Karuizawa 1970/2012 'Vintage' (64.5%, OB, Number One Drinks, ex-sherry cask 450 litres, cask #6177, 312 bottles)

One of those casks from which earlier bottlings were drawn at the distillery, which is reminiscent of how some Armagnacs or Cognacs are handled. As a result, several versions of this cask exist at different strengths and ages, though they’ve now become vanishingly rare. Colour: dark gold. Nose: we’re once again meandering through the realm of great rums, somewhere between Jamaica and Guadeloupe, before a wave of Corinth raisins and what is clearly old Pedro Ximénez takes over, bringing its full parade of dried fruits: dates, figs, goji berries, golden sultanas... Then a hint of cedarwood, sandalwood, and a handful of Mozartkugeln, chocolate-coated marzipan balls that, indeed, seem to hum a little Mozart of their own. With water: fresh putty and even a dab of neoprene glue lend it a wonderfully down-to-earth, almost proletarian charm. Mouth: still quite brutal, even after twelve or thirteen years in glass. The alcohol kicks, alongside kirsch and all manner of rustic fruit eau-de-vie. Water feels more like a recommendation than a suggestion. With water: everything relaxes and rounds out, the dried fruits reclaim their seats, and a soft spoonful of multifloral honey adds another layer of charm. Finish: fairly long, rounded, nearly sweet, honeyed and awash in raisins. Comment: perhaps not quite as transcendental as some of its brethren, but the standard remains extraordinarily high.
SGP: 651 - 90 points.

Karuizawa 42 yo 1969/2012 'Vintage' (61.3%, OB, Number One Drinks, ex-bourbon cask, cask #8183, 400 litres)

The return of bourbon casks and the move into the previous decade: two milestones well worth celebrating. Especially as, believe it or not, we’d never tasted a Karuizawa 1969 before today, so we are now charting what is, for us, nearly terra incognita. Colour: deep yellow gold. Nose: that bourbon gives the distillate a far greater voice than sherry ever could is an obvious truth, reconfirmed here in majestic fashion. Lemons, clementines, cider apples, beeswax candles, marzipan, orgeat, facial cream (for ladies or gents), a faint maritime touch—seaweed, even... now where on earth did that seaweed come from? With water: beeswax takes over entirely, bringing with it pollen and honey, plus the scent of old books and furniture polish, waxed mahogany and leather spines. Mouth: splendid. If I may, I’ll invoke Highland Park again—I’ve done so already above, so let’s not pretend otherwise. A magnificent herbal and saline edge that grows steadily, alongside grapefruit and lemon peel. The palate is tauter, more vertical than the nose, but no less enthralling. With water: I’ll say no more, this shall remain between this magical Karuizawa and your humble servant. Finish: no comment. Comment: no comment.
SGP: 562 - 94 points.

Karuizawa 50 yo 1965/2016 'Japonism Edition' (62.4%, OB, LMDW 60th Anniversary, ex-bourbon and sherry, casks #8636 and #2372, 60 bottles)

We had previously tasted both the ex-bourbon and the ex-sherry versions in their time, but never this final assemblage of the two, a blend that seems to bring a distinctly Champagne-like philosophy to bear on the exercise. Needless to say, we approach such a bottle with the reverence and solemnity it rightly commands. Colour: gold. Nose: not the first time a spirit of such age reminds us that truly great old spirits tend to converge, provided the quality is there. What I mean is that this little marvel in our glass could just as easily be an ancient rum, a venerable Cognac, an old Armagnac, a noble Calvados or even a museum-grade Tequila—or indeed any permutation thereof. What speaks loudest here is time itself, not the original ingredients, whether barley, agave, sugarcane, apple or oak. In short, we’re greeted by all the great honeys of the world and a kaleidoscope of citrus fruits in every conceivable shape, size and origin. With water: it now evokes those wondrous old Sauternes that have quietly shed much of their residual sugar. Mouth: scarcely believable: eucalyptus, honeys, dried fruits, oranges, and a staggering freshness that belies the half-century on the clock. With water: everything arrives—fresh and dried fruits, waxes, embrocations, varnish, tobacco, and even, dare one say it, a few humble cleaning products—natural ones, of course. Finish: old rum meets old Cognac meets ancient malt whisky, in sublime harmony. Comment: rereading my original notes on the two casks that formed the basis of this rather mad blend, I have the strong sense that their union raised them both even higher. In other words, what we were never quite taught at school—that 1 + 1 can sometimes equal 3—was entirely correct in this rare case.
SGP: 652 - 96 points.

Worth noting, this rather special session wouldn’t have been possible without the invaluable help of the very talented teams at La Maison du Whisky and the Golden Promise in Paris. A first version, in French, should have appeared in Whisky Magazine & Fine Spirits a few weeks ago—naturally, the scores haven’t been altered since. I’ll add that his very unusual session, here on WF, was a direct translation from French to ‘English’ and therefore, no doubt quite different from the very basic, bargain-basement style we usually use here. Please forgive us.

Oh, and just between us, I warmly suggest you dip into, or better yet, subscribe to Whisky Magazine & Fine Spirits. It’s brimming with first-class original content, including some real treasures by the fabulously talented and very graceful Christine Lambert. And if French isn’t your forte, well, no more excuses, as our dear old friend Google, n’est-ce pas, is getting uncannily good at translating these days. Santé!

Check the index of all Karuizawa we've tasted