A wee Cognac verticale spanning 50 years


May 17, 2025

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

A wee Cognac verticale spanning 50 years, from 2015 to 1965

Starting with a ‘petit’ apéritif before we tackle the little big cognacs – or big little cognacs – from the F1 teams currently leading the race to the World Championship. Hope you see what I mean.

'It's Hine! It's dry!
A lovely twilight. The setting sun. A dry air filled with memories. For truly unforgettable moments, that rare and precious taste that warms the heart. Hine Cognac — acclaimed as the finest Cognac by connoisseurs the world over, because it is… dry.'
(Magazine ad, USA, early 1960s).

Hine ‘Homage to Thomas Hine’ (40%, OB, Grade Champagne, +/-2025)

Here we have a rather top-tier XO (100€+) The ‘Antique’ version didn’t quite win us over a few years ago, but this Homage has a fine reputation… It’s a blend of cognacs aged in England—thus early landed—and very old cognacs matured in Jarnac. Let's see if it§'s 'sec'... Colour: amber. Nose: rather light, fairly dry, with a touch of sandalwood and hints of incense and eucalyptus lending it a distinctly Far Eastern character. Mouth: more assertive on the palate despite the low strength, with fruit peels, hints of lightly burnt caramel, liquorice, pistachio cream, then a touch of triple sec, candied zest, lemon liqueur, melon, peach… All of it becomes increasingly lively and fresh, it’s really very pleasant. Finish: nice length considering the strength, with those citrus elements still present, a touch of menthol, and a slight hint of green tea and fresh hay. Comments: I really like this Hine, it’s a fine house in any case. One might note the English spelling ‘Homage’ rather than the French ‘Hommage’. But then, Thomas Hine was indeed English…
SGP:551 – 85 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 8 yo 2015/2024 (57.8%, C. Dully Selection, Grande Champagne, folle blanche, cask #338, 214 bottles)

From a few rows of folle blanche planted by the Pasquet family in the 1970s. Cognacs made exclusively from folle blanche remain rare—though they were of course far more common before phylloxera. Colour: gold. Nose: now this is distinctly off the beaten track, more textured right from the start, heavily camphory, marked by eucalyptus and massage balms, then we move into more classical notes—maple syrup, natural vanilla, oranges and peach. Lovely aniseed notes bide their time in the background, along with hints of white and yellow flowers. With water: a few earthy touches, otherwise it stays the course—it swims like a champion. Mouth (neat): that same firmness and tension on the attack, liquorice with menthol, almost a whiff of smoke (let’s say something Ben Nevis-ish), even a saline edge. Citrus zest. With water: we dive into the heart of the grape, though if one yields to it, one is swept off to both Scotland and Martinique. Finish: long, with a cavalry charge of candied citrus. Liquorice and fir bud in the aftertaste. Comments: I wouldn’t say I’m surprised, but it’s not often that such young cognacs come across as this ‘complete’, if you see what I mean. We’re already brushing up against perfection, proof that the finest cognacs, too, don't necessarily need long ageing.
SGP:662 – 89 points.

Domaine du Chêne ‘XXO d’avant 1992’ (48.4%, Art Malts, Bons Bois, Series of Art 6, L’Or de Jo, barrique, casks #7100–7108, 2024)

Colour: deep amber. Nose: cider apple and wood varnish, then natural rubber and myrtle, the whole thing wrapped in a fine marmalade of orange and grapefruit, then misted with vineyard peach liqueur. Very handsome woodiness, slightly resinous, very elegant. Mouth: all this translates onto the palate in a most charmingly rustic fashion, almost ‘non-commercial’ if you see what I mean, with constant nods towards its Armagnac cousins. I hope I’m not offending anyone by saying that. Fir, black tea, fennel, lime, liquorice wood etc. Finish: long, with these rather green tannins and still plenty of lime. It just tickles a bit. Comments: a Domaine du Chêne version with a slightly more country-house style than others we’ve already tried, yet still obviously of very high calibre. The young folle blanche may have overshadowed it a touch, I shall have words with whoever assembled this line-up. Right.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Voyer ‘Lot 85’ (53.7%, Grape of the Art, Grande Champagne, 295 bottles)

A nice example of a very fine house that used to offer some truly charming cognacs, though they could have lacked a bit of oomph, simply due to the customary 40% vol. One imagines the thirsty horde of indies (love you guys) must have encouraged them to release higher-strength bottlings, with results that now seem quite self-evident. Colour: full gold. Nose: a magnificent lemony cavalcade, very lively, almost acidic on the nose, though swiftly rescued by chalk and a touch of honey. Lovely. With water: candle wax, damp earth, shoe polish. Mouth (neat): very, very compact. Mint, liquorice, lemon, chalk, basta cosi. With water: the water draws out even more citrus, we find blood orange, bergamot and so on. Finish: long, slightly earthier, with a touch of ‘dunnage’. Comments: nothing to add, it’s singular, so it’s perfect (what?)
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘L.53.y Le Cognac de Limburg Whisky Fair 2025’ (51.4%, OB, Confluences, Fine Champagne, 1 bottle)

Don’t bother reading this tasting note, it’s entirely pointless since there was only one bottle. You’ve been warned. Right, we’ll be quick about it… Colour: amber. Nose: it’s a dialogue between vineyard peaches stewed in honey and fir liqueur enriched with a touch of liquorice. With water: mint tea wraps it all up. Mouth (neat): sandalwood, cinnamon stick, bergamot, sultanas, a whisper of muscat. With water: orange salad dressed with honey, olive oil and mint. Killer stuff. Finish: this is the worst bit, it’s the bottom of the bottle, and now not a single drop remains. In the entire world! Comments: one really shouldn’t score such a unique flask, but let’s say somewhere bang between 90 and 92.
SGP:661 - /points.

Héritage ‘Lot 74’ (44.7%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)

Héritage ‘Lot 74’ (44.7%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)
Pure ugni blanc, single-origin though undisclosed. That’s quite all right. Colour: amber. Nose: we’re in slightly old-school territory here, with caramel, toffee, buttercream, tobacco, then a lovely burst of peppermint and a few puffs of lavender, all with fine elegance. We’re now rather curious about the palate… Mouth: it opens with something almost medicinal, yet also saline, then shifts towards mint, orange and eucalyptus, with a touch of black tea providing the tannic backbone. After all, this baby is fifty years old! Finish: medium in length, earthier, with touches of mushroom, peppermint, cedarwood… and still that… let’s say darjeeling tea. Comments: my grandfathers and my father would have absolutely adored this magnificent slightly old-skool cognac and I’m certainly not going to contradict them.
SGP:451 - 88 points.

La Prenellerie ‘Lot 73’ (52.6%, Authentic Spirits, Bons Bois, 2025)

Here we are at the mouth of the Gironde, then, in a setting that’s almost maritime. Colour: amber. Nose: oh, the honeys! And fudge with touches of pink pepper and mint chocolate. With water: mint tea with a mocha spoonful of fir honey, and a hint of sauna oil. Mouth (neat): very fine tension, on citron, eucalyptus and myrtle. We wonder whether this baby wasn’t in fact distilled in Corsica. We love Corsica at WF – Bons Bois too, of course. With water: a very lovely fruity simplicity, heading towards all kinds of plums, the whole sprinkled with a bit of ground cinnamon. Finish: not eternal but certain aspects do recall old agricole rums. Comments: let’s not forget that old spirits tend to converge – and tannicity to become a bit more talkative.
SGP:451 – 89 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 1972/2025 (54.5%, Maltbarn, Grande Champagne)

Jean-Luc Pasquet 52 yo 1972/2025 (54.5%, Maltbarn, Grande Champagne)

1972, that’s so rock and roll! Colour: dark red amber. Nose: it’s almost brutal, a bit blurry, not terribly orderly, a touch ‘cooked’, stewed, with rubber… And it ends up being dominated by damson, vieille prune from Souillac and the like. This is really one of those cases where you tell yourself you ought to add a few drops of water straight away. With water: total old bachelor’s jam and vintage mint liqueur. And I swear there’s an old Bunnahabhain vibe in there (with my profuse apologies). Mouth (neat): the opposite of the nose, precise from the outset, old bourbon, varnish, tinned peaches, overripe apples, hints of natural tar. With water: it slips the leash so to speak, heading into fern, vintage orange liqueur, blond tobacco, hay… Finish: long, with rising tannicity, but as it veers towards liquorice wood, everything remains just perfectly fine. Comments: who said rock and roll? We’re bordering on Captain Beefheart here, nothing in particular makes sense, yet the whole exudes undeniable, immense charm. In other words, a bit of organised chaos – love it.
SGP:561 – 90 points.

A last one, from another discreet house we’re very fond of…

Rémi Landier ‘Lot 72-73-74 Les Champs Fruités’ (50.13%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 350 bottles, 2025)

Colour: deep gold. Nose: the exact opposite of the previous one, because even if this baby is multi-vintage, we’re in the realm of precision here, of near-simplicity – this is almost Bauhaus cognac. Chamomile, very ripe vineyard peaches, heather honey, and that’s it. All right then, let’s say these are different heather honeys, especially white and ling. In short, it’s magnificently compact, I’m almost afraid. With water: arrival of balms and ointments, camphor and the like. Mouth (neat): cedar and balsa, then oranges and honey, followed by a light maritime oloroso side and a touch of Iberian ham. Indeed, that’s also the oak ‘rising’. With water: it’s even more noticeable once you’ve added water, as almost always. That familiar mint tea and bitter chocolate note. Finish: it’s an amusing sensation, the tannicity slightly closes in on the spirit, almost like a door. Doesn’t stop a few classic touches of peach, orange and sultanas from continuing their patrol, but the whole becomes dry if not drying. Comments: one wonders whether there’s any real point in declaring the ABV to the hundredth of a degree, but maybe it makes it even more ‘distinctive’. A magnificent ‘seco’ cognac, at any rate.
SGP:461 – 89 points.

But who said the previous one was going to be the last, who?...

Les Grandes Jouberteries ‘Lot 65’ (49.6%, Authentic Spirits, Fins Bois, 2025)

Les Grandes Jouberteries ‘Lot 65’ (49.6%, Authentic Spirits, Fins Bois, 2025)
Ugni blanc and full maturation in wood. We tasted a sister bottling last year and it was sublime (WF 91). Colour: amber. Nose: this is pure fudge, mixed with pistachio nougat, the whole bound with toasted sesame oil laced with a touch of orange peel essential oil. So, what are we listening to from 1965? Why, of course, The Zombies and Rod Argent with ‘She’s Not There’. Or Santana’s version, on Moonflower. Right then, let’s press on… Mouth: splendid fir honey, and to be fair there’s very nearly only that, in the end, the question is whether or not you like fir honey. I agree, who doesn’t. All right, that’s an exaggeration, there are apples and oranges too, then peaches and dried apricots, and quite a bit of cinnamon. It’s splendid and it’s… 60 years old, give or take. Finish: long, with inevitably more marked tannins, black tea, dark chocolate and mint, thyme tisane, tobacco, a few Corinth raisins and black pepper in the aftertaste… The finish may not be the most dazzling aspect of such an old spirit, but the whole ‘holds up’ perfectly. Comments: a mighty beast!
SGP:461 – 91 points.

Another fine selection today, or a real little treasure trove of cognacs. Au revoir, CU.

Check the index of all cognacs we've tasted so far