| |
Home
Thousands of tastings,
all the music,
all the rambligs
and all the fun
(hopefully!)
Whiskyfun.com
Guaranteed ad-free
copyright 2002-2025
|
 |
|
| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
| |
|
| |
| |
January 28, 2025 |
|
  |
Back to Japan, with glory and panache!
Okay, we savoured some sublime Japanese whiskies at the end of last year; it's time to start again in 2025. Let's try a variety of styles today...
Distilling equipment at Sakurao Distillery (Sakurao)
|
 |
|
Togouchi ‘Misty’ (48%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, 2024) 
While the Togouchi whiskies we used to encounter in Europe were largely sourced and imported spirits not distilled in Japan, the owners, Sakurao in Hiroshima, established their own distillery in 2017, which began producing peated malt in early 2018. Hurrah, this means we are now enjoying a true Japanese single malt in our glass. Colour: white wine. Nose: exceedingly light and, above all, very fresh, with green apples and subtle hints of green tea. There’s a delicate Sauvignon Blanc character, particularly with honeysuckle, which suits it well. A touch of gooseberries follows, then vanilla and a whisper of fresh coconut, though nothing excessive. The profile is faintly reminiscent of older malts distilled in Lomond stills (Mosstowie!). Mouth: that same freshness continues, with a hint of bubblegum mingling with those distinctive green apples, a touch of coconut, chlorophyll-infused chewing gum, and a trace of liquorice wood. Finish: of medium length, displaying a certain acidity that once again evokes Sauvignon Blanc. Coconut milk re-emerges in the aftertaste, accompanied by a very faint saline note. Comments: it feels youthful and a tad light(ish), but the freshness is perfectly delightful.
SGP:550 - 82 points. |
|
Sakurao ‘Sherry Cask’ (50%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, +/-2024) 
From the same distillery. It’s to be noted that the hybrid spirit still is equipped with a column, which might explain the Togouchi’s relative lightness. Let’s see how it fares in this ‘Sakurao’ version… Colour: gold. Nose: more body here, with the sherry doing its job. Notes of leather, walnuts, and tobacco emerge, alongside a hint of patchouli and ylang-ylang. A faint touch of sushi sauce (of course!). With water: the coherence strengthens, with menthol and anise rising to the fore. It seems to thrive with water. Mouth (neat): leaning more towards young kirsch, with a paraffin and almond milk character, followed by cinnamon mints and traces of pine resin, as well as orange marmalade. The overall texture remains fairly light. With water: once again, water works wonders, moving it towards chartreuse and verbena, almost with hints of absinthe. Finish: medium in length, with the casks regaining a bit of control. Walnuts make a return. Comments: very pleasant. I wonder if they’re also experimenting with double distillation through the sole wash still, which is a classic pot still—that would be intriguing. But that’s none of my business, is it…
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
|
Chichibu 9 yo 2015/2024 ‘Daikokuten’ (61.9%, OB, Spirits of Salud, 7even Gods of Fortune, second fill bourbon barrel, cask #4664, 187 bottles) 
Last year, we sampled a sister cask (Angel’s Favourite), and as expected, it left us rather impressed. In any case, Chichibu and bourbon barrels tango beautifully, as we know. Colour: white wine. Nose: a blade that slices right through you, as the saying goes. A perfect assembly of lime, rhubarb, cider apples, and passion fruit. But at this strength, let’s not take too many chances… With water: even livelier, sharper with water, as blood oranges join the party and mingle wonderfully. Stunning. Mouth (neat): it’s fatty, it’s oily, yet it delivers a vibrant freshness that jolts your spine. Remarkable notes of lemony eucalyptus and a hint of honey—at least it seems so—but again, water is more than welcome. With water: yes, that’s it, spot on. Lemons, grapefruit, cinchona, eucalyptus, and a touch of woodruff. Beautiful green pepper lingers in the background, keeping everything energetic and taut like a bowstring. Finish: long, fresh, with green apples taking the lead, almost refreshing—but therein lies the trap, right. Playful green oak in the aftertaste, including the honeydew our friendly bees craft for our delight. A dash of menthol too. Comments: right up my street—or motorway, as I was about to say. The only flaw? We saw it coming. Right.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
Here, let’s also taste two or three yet-untasted classic favourites cherished by the chic Parisians from LMDW... |
|
Yamazaki 20 yo 1986/2006 ‘Owner’s Cask’ (60%, OB, La Maison du Whisky 50th Anniversary, Butt/Mizunara, cask #6G5029, 405 bottles)
It’s unclear whether this is a ‘double cask’ sherry butt + mizunara or if the butt itself was constructed from mizunara oak, but let’s not nitpick too much. Regardless, both this older series and these 1980s vintages of Yamazaki have now reached legendary status, and I’d add that, in my opinion, they also benefit greatly from (slow) bottle ageing. Colour: gold. Nose: a blend of chestnut honey and fir honey—that’s it for now (but it’s a lot, as these honeys are incredibly complex). With water: all the resins, glues, sap, and vegetal varnishes of the world, adorned with a few fresh almonds and walnuts. Absolute compactness. Mouth (neat): oh, my goodness! Maximum resinous and camphoraceous power—it just pins you to the wall. Plenty of black propolis as well, tying back to the fir honey and, naturally, the mizunara. And a distinct glue-like sensation. An incredible gustatory territory. With water: it softens a bit, but various peppers take over in the most beautiful way—so many different types of pepper. Finish: long and, at last, a touch gentler and more benevolent, with some white fruits joining this intensely sappy cavalcade. Comments: I think—no, I am certain—that 20 years in glass have only elevated this Yamazaki further. I’d even suggest it might have climbed from 90 to 93 points. I humbly say this because we tasted many of these Owner’s Casks when they were released in the 2000s, so we have some perspective. But anyway…
SGP:572 - 93 points. |
Just to clarify, the word ‘butt’, or bota in Spanish, or botte in French refers to a type and size of cask, which doesn’t necessarily indicate sherry. For instance, here in Alsace, distillers used to macerate berries or small fruits in bottes. So, if you come across the term ‘butt’, it doesn’t automatically mean sherry. There you have it! Let’s carry on with another special selection from LMDW… |
|
Karuizawa 1976/2010 (63.6%, OB, LMDW/Whisky Live Paris, first fill sherry butt, cask #7818, 554 bottles)
Featuring the iconic ‘vintage label’ of the era, with its disarming modesty. I believe another version from the same cask was also released with the ‘Geisha’ label by Number One Drinks Company, far less, shall we say, austere. Colour: dark amber. Nose: every time we sample one of the +/-300 Karuizawa single casks—especially one without a prior formal note—it is a humbling experience. Here, it’s the massive oak that commands attention. What might be a flaw elsewhere feels sumptuous here, as it disassembles itself into multiple subcategories, which we could outline as follows: chocolate, prunes, coffee, tobacco, tar, and aged Ténarèze. With water: small hydrocarbons, oils, essences, and coal tar emerge, alongside red and brown sauces reminiscent of Asian cuisine, which we, of course, adore. A few notes of overripe, dark bananas as well. Mouth (neat): again, so much black pepper and gunpowder on the first sip might suggest a flaw, yet dried figs, dates, and an old Demerara rum character immediately transform it into splendour. You’d almost forget the 63.6% ABV. With water: boom. Pine sap, black pepper, dark tobacco, sloes, hoisin sauce, and manuka honey. Finish: similarly enduring, with just a touch of currants as a signature, plus a few drops of ultra-aged brandy de Jerez. Comments: I see no reason to assign a score different from that of the Yamazaki—and besides, that would be vulgar, would it not.
SGP:661 - 93 points. |
 |
A sixth and final one. In any case, if we go any further, we’ll run out of oxygen… |
|
Karuizawa 1970/2011 (59.1%, OB, La Maison du Whisky, bourbon barrel, cask #1985, 181 bottles)
No need to say much. Colour: amber. Nose: naturally, one might wonder if a Karuizawa without sherry could stand tall. The answer is a resounding yes. In fact, the astonishing aromatic combination that leaps—more or less subtly—to your nose, at least in this instance, leaves no doubt. Every honey, every tobacco notes, all the yellow flowers and dried fruits are here, placing us firmly in the realm of a truly great and very old agricole rum—but with a turbocharger. I don’t know anyone who could resist this, not even an U.S. president who’s become a teetotaller but who was not some decades ago (according to certain NYC bartenders in the press). Beeswax reigning in splendour. With water: unchanged. Magnificent. Mouth (neat): broad, ample oak, dancing spices, unbridled peppers, rebellious citrus, and impeccable waxiness. You get the picture—those little words should convey the impact of such a whisky. With water: utterly superlative, and those spices! Finish: long, dominated by black and grey peppers, balanced with a hint of pink peppercorn. A drying finale reminiscent of a very old amontillado—and yet, it’s definitely ex-bourbon. Comments: let’s say it—it’s reminiscent of Clynelish circa 1972.
SGP:661 - 95 points. |
(Arigatoř to Thierry, LMDW & the Golden Promise bar) |
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
