Caperdonich on the Tasting Table


January 16, 2025

Caperdonich on the Tasting Table
(a bit of Caroni too)

Glen Grant's sister distillery, closed in 2002 by its new owners, Pernod Ricard, was later sold to the coppersmith and still manufacturer Forsyth’s, who demolished it a few years later. I’m not sure whether it could have continued production, but in any case, the stills were in good enough condition to be reinstalled at Belgian Owl and Falkirk Distillery. Let’s see what we have…

(Geograph)

Caperdonich 26 yo 1997/2024 (42.7%, Duncan Taylor, The Octave, cask #4137859, 47 bottles)

It will be interesting to see what form of sorcery has been employed here, especially considering that there were quite a few peated versions of Caperdonich produced that year, with the owners at the time, Seagram, having done the same at other distilleries such as Benriach. Colour: gold. Nose: apologies, no peat, but instead some very lovely ripe mangoes and pear cake, along with beeswax, orgeat syrup and a few amaretti. Also, a touch of school glue (the kind we could eat as children but which, unsurprisingly, didn’t stick much of anything). A very charming nose, not ‘boosted’ in the slightest by the octave. Mouth: gentle bitters, apple peelings, hops, bitter almonds, a touch of cooked banana and pear, followed by a mint-and-chamomile tisane that mingles with very fine tannins, hinting at walnuts from the sherry. Finish: not immensely long but very prettily fruity, with those almonds still at the helm and a murmuring sherry. Comments: a very elegant little bottling.
SGP:461 - 86 points.

Caperdonich 27 yo 1997/2024 (52.7%, Liquid Treasures, 15th Anniversary eSpirits, bourbon barrel, 163 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: yellow and white fruits, apples, whitecurrants, plums… It feels very close to its neighbour Glen Grant, or so it seems. Melon and papaya emerge next, along with a touch of rose-flavoured Turkish delight, making it aromatic, fresh and cheerful. With water: barley and apple, we’re taking a stroll through the Scottish countryside. Mouth (neat): very good, fairly lively, focusing on orchard fruits reminiscent of some excellent Longmorns we tasted a few days ago. Mirabelle plums, apples, quinces, gooseberries, then a drizzle of honey and a splash of Earl Grey. Straightforward and impeccable. With water: green fruits, a hint of watermelon, light vanilla and plenty of fresh malt. Finish: medium length, featuring lovely fruity green tea and that honeyed aspect. Comments: in my humble opinion, this wasn’t an ultra-distinctive malt but, in the end, that’s precisely what gives it charm.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Caperdonich 25 yo 1994/2019 (58.2%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, Caroni rum barrel finish, cask #19304, 205 bottles)

Naturally, with Caroni involved, things were bound to change… Colour: copper gold. Nose: this is an in-cask blend, of course, and the rum immediately takes the lead over our little Caperdonich, bringing the usual notes of fuel oil, tar, lime, brine and rubber/bakelite. Don’t get me wrong, it’s actually rather charming! All that is followed by citron liqueur and bergamots. With water: metal polish, copper and brass coins, new tyres. Mouth (neat): much the same feeling, but here the Trinidad rum almost delivers a sense of peat, alongside fairly hefty doses of salted liquorice and even a touch of seawater. With water: the rum returns. It’s almost more ‘Caroni’ than ‘Caroni light’. Finish: long, saline, slightly more kirsch-like. A hint of lovage or Maggi in the aftertaste. Comments: yet another cruel dilemma. One doesn’t quite like the idea but really enjoys the result. If we wanted to be clever, we might call it ‘Caperdonicht,’ but we’re not trying to be clever. The issue, I must insist, is that it’s very good—damn it.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Gone Grant 31 yo 1993/2024 (43.9%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill barrel, 230 bottles)

The name ‘Gone Grant’ refers to the fact that Caperdonich was originally called ‘Glen Grant #2’, and between the two sister distilleries, it’s this one—the #2—that has since ‘gone’. Is that clear enough? Colour: light gold. Nose: I know one shouldn’t say this anymore, but I find this nose very feminine, refined, elegant, with wafts of classic perfume (the sort that adorned Marilyn Monroe) and high-end beauty creams. It grows increasingly floral, with pronounced honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, rose petals—utterly restrained—jasmine, and orange blossom… before drifting towards ripe bananas. Mouth: very delicate, indeed, leaning towards fruit salad with a touch of cinnamon and honey. A complex oak subtly underpins everything without ever imposing itself, which feels quite miraculous at 44%. Very soft liquorice. Finish: not very long but always fruity, lively, and slightly more exotic. Even at this stage, the wood never dominates. Comments: there’s something almost miraculous about this. It reminds me of the 1972s from Duncan Taylor—Caperdonichs as much as Glen Grants, for that matter.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Caperdonich we've tasted so far