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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 15, 2025 |
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Contrasting styles in the Lowlands: old Littlemill versus St. Magdalene |
It’s true that the St. Magdalene Rare Malts—particularly the 19-year-old release—had left a strong impression on us due to their power and complexity, a combination not so commonly found in the (then rather few) Lowland whiskies. By contrast, the Littlemills, especially the older releases from around three to six years ago, had proven to be incredibly fruity explosions, quite the opposite of the St. Magdalene style. But let’s see whether that impression was truly justified, shall we…
Si Magdalene/Linlithgow (Historic Environment Scotland + AI) |
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St Magdalene 1982/2001 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Rare Old) 
Of course, there's no question of expecting the devastating power of the Rare Malts, but still, even at this now thoroughly unfashionable 40% vol., the tiger can still let out a little roar, let’s have a look. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: truth be told, the near-absence of cask influence more than makes up for the lack of wattage here, and reveals a magnificent balance, on herbs and flowers, but also those greases and oils one finds in an old garage, which is fairly typical of St Magdalene in our modest experience. A few autumn leaves and old apples round off the delicate ensemble, along with a few mandarins. Very pretty nose, it’s almost a white wine. Premier Cru, naturally. Mouth: oh, this is lovely, it brings to mind that Campbeltown distillery beginning with an S., it’s saline, a little on pencil lead and paraffin oil, with a faint touch of soot but also those familiar mandarins and old apples already found on the nose. Strikingly, it never nosedives, that’s the elegance of the distillate speaking. Finish: certainly not everlasting, but always classy, saline, and rather ‘West coast’. That Campbeltown distillery springs to mind once more. Comments: magnificent and just a tad frustrating. You know why.
SGP:452 - 89 points. |
But what if this Littlemill were instead a much older distillation, aiming to explore a more austere style, one perhaps closer to that of St. Magdalene? Like this one, for instance… |

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Littlemill 25 yo 1966/1992 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)
Naturally, this expression was ‘matured in an Oak Cask’. We had previously tasted a 1966 from CAD in their ‘black dumpy’ line, but that one had been bottled earlier, in 1984 (WF 87). Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is absolutely not one of those very fruity Littlemills, quite the opposite in fact, we’re firmly in straw and hay territory here, with ski wax, turpentine and paraffin, pine needles, and a touch of dust… Truth be told, it’s not that far off certain aspects of St Magdalene in fact, though perhaps one should have seen that coming. There’s just a touch less class. With water: a stroll through a pine forest after the first summer rain. You see? Mouth (neat): on resinous woods and mineral oils, liquorice wood, green pepper, citrus peels… This is most definitely not a fruity or cheerful Littlemill, but it carries that rather rugged character we often found in this series at the time and always had a soft spot for. With water: the fruit does return but more in the grapefruit register, complete with peel. Finish: fairly long, with no major shifts. A touch of coffee in the aftertaste. Comments: this really is Littlemill just as it was back then. It also explains why those glorious fruity vintages distilled in the late 1980s and early 1990s had come as such a surprise.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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