Deanston, we have a problem


July 22, 2025

Deanston, we have a problem…

Indeed, yet another serious contender for the SHOTY Award in San Francisco (Stupidest Headline Of The Year). In any case, the issue is that we don’t have enough Deanston, even though improbable versions have been multiplying over the past few years, but still, it’s a name that’s practically come back from the dead within those years. We like Deanston, let’s see what we’ve got…

(AI slop)

Deanston 17 yo 2002/2020 ‘Organic PX Finish’ (49.3%, OB, 3,102 bottles)

A finishing in organic PX, do admit that’s rather amusing. You might say we’ve taken five years to finally crack open this baby. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s not earth-shattering, but it’s well-balanced, on cake, walnuts, sultanas and amber ale. Some toasted hazelnuts and dried goji berries. Nothing further to declare. Mouth: a notch greener, a little wobblier, with a bitterness one wouldn’t quite expect from an ex-PX—perhaps that’s the organic angle at work (only teasing, mind). A faint note of bell pepper and green walnut sneaks in unannounced. Finish: long, leaning towards a dry bitterness, Noilly Prat, Fernet Branca, bitter chocolate, and a touch of rubber… The aftertaste is slightly astringent. Comments: we didn’t start with the easiest dram, that much is clear, but it does have its merits. For instance, the organic character of the wine, though aren’t all the great wines organic nowadays?
SGP:461 - 80 points.

Deanston 15 yo ‘Tequila Cask Finish’ (52.5%, OB, 2023)

I know, yet another tequila finish, but I implore you, let us not be afraid! Mind you, the finishing did indeed take place in casks sourced from the highlands of Jalisco, which had previously held 100% blue agave tequila made from plants aged 7 to 8 years. Said casks had already been used four to five times prior. Right, we know the lot now, don’t we? Colour: white wine. Nose: not much in the way of tequilaness or agaveness at this point, rather a malty malt, leaning towards bruised apples and candlewax. With water: hints of paraffin and a subtle note of olive oil. We rather like that. Mouth (neat): odder, fairly rubbery, with lime peel and a distinctly offbeat edge. The addition of water should do it a world of good. With water: indeed, much improved, becoming saltier, the olive oil makes a comeback, a faint smokiness emerges (think pine wood smoke), and the tequila finally begins to show itself. Finish: medium in length and a tad more earthy. Green walnuts. Comments: we’re not exactly doing cartwheels, but it’s not bad at all. I nearly added a ‘caramba!’ (it’s getting worse, S.)
SGP:551 - 81 points.

Let’s move on to the indies, if you don’t mind…

Deanston 17 yo 2008/2025 (50.3%, The Whisky Agency, ruby Port barrel, 164 bottles)

Hurrah, The Whisky Agency! But oops, ruby Port? What happened there? Let's have a look… Colour: reddish amber. Nose: frankly, I’ve no idea where this is coming from, but there’s a tomato sauce aspect (a serious case of synaesthesia?) mixed with shoe polish and a hint of peat that… well, actually works. Do you believe in miracles? These little blackberries and that salted butter caramel go together rather splendidly, it reminds me of one of the finest puddings ever served by the late André Parra at the Ermitage de Corton in Chorey-les-Beaune, though I really don’t know why I’m telling you that. With water: more polish and cherry eau-de-vie. Mouth (neat): this is proper supercharged Port, seriously. Blackberries and candied cherries, both preserved and jammy, along with stewed bell pepper and a fair amount of blackcurrant bud. With water: the blackcurrant bud takes centre stage. Finish: similar story. Bitter oranges and blood oranges in the aftertaste. Cherry clafoutis right at the very end. Comments: utterly improbable, yet it works. I was bracing for disaster, but it is The Whisky Agency after all!
SGP:561 - 83 points.

Deanston 2008/2023 (60.2%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, the Midnight Series, refill butt, cask #DL1854, 662 bottles)

Why Midnight Series, I’m not entirely sure. Perhaps slightly darker casks than usual? Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a little rubber here, possibly from the sherry cask, but mostly it’s all about chocolate and Ethiopian mocha. That said, at this strength one had better add water without delay. With water: this leans a bit towards old plum brandy, even a touch of rustic Armagnac. Mouth (neat): very much young eau-de-vie, tutti-frutti straight from the still, or indeed plums, especially after a second run through. In short, it’s a tad ‘hot’… With water: not much development, really, we remain in plum and cherry jam territory. May I recommend the one from Itxassou in the Basque Country? Finish: good length, still plummy and, above all, that rubbery note we already encountered earlier in this session. Comments: in short, I think this is pretty good, but perhaps not quite essential.
SGP:551 - 81 points.

Promise, next time we’ll have some ex-bourbon or ex-refill hoggie Deanston. In the meantime, see you soon, stay tuned.

Check the index of all Deanston we've tasted so far