Google Even more rums on WF, incuding a 1834, for our 23rd anniversary
 
 

Serge whiskyfun
Home
Thousands of tastings,
all the ramblings
and all the fun
(hopefully!)

Warning


Facebook Twitter Logo

Whiskyfun.com
Guaranteed ad-free
copyright 2002-2025

 

Whiskyfun  
Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé!
   
   
 

July 27, 2025


Whiskyfun

  A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

 

WF23

Even more rums on WF, incuding a 1834, for our 23rd anniversary
(just slightly early)

Tomorrow marks the 23rd anniversary of this pitiful little ultra-advanced website, and we’re getting ever so slightly ahead of ourselves with a very special rum we had set aside for the occasion. We're even going to enjoy it as an ‘apéritif’, because it simply wouldn’t do to have it after those sickly-sweet sugar bombs followed by high-ester bazookas from Jamaica, Trinidad, Guyana... or Fiji. Are we all agreed on that?

Recent photo of the former Bellows headquarters just south of the New York Stock Exchange.

 

 

Jamaica Rum 1834 (+/-40%, M.E. Bellows‘ Son of New York via The Colours of Rum, Guyana)

Jamaica Rum 1834 (+/-40%, M.E. Bellows‘ Son of New York via The Colours of Rum, Guyana) Four stars
According to rum specialists—or at the very least those more versed than yours truly—this would likely be a rum of Guyanese origin, crafted in the Jamaican style (which rather brings to mind those American champagnes or Russian cognacs) and distributed by M.E. Bellows, wine and spirits importers and merchants based at 50 Broad St., New York. We’ve already had the pleasure of tasting a splendid American Old Medford Rum from 1876 as well as some whisky from these same people. This sample was kindly shared by Wealth Solutions, a thousand thanks to them. I presume it came from a venerable old bottle that was carefully transferred into tiny vials, no doubt destined for refined noses and palates such as our own (modesty, S.?) So once again, many thanks to Wealth Solutions. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: well, rum it remains, with prominent molasses, corn syrup, lashings of liquorice, hints of orange liqueur, and perhaps an overarching ‘El Dorado’ profile if one had to name it. It does not come across as tired in the least, nor does it feel recent or cloyingly syrupy. After nearly two centuries, one suspects the sugars have mellowed and ‘digested’ themselves, much as seen in very old Hungarian Tokaji. Mouth: I find this rather good, almost like a liquorice liqueur, the texture being oily and near thick, with minute touches of salt, mint, and anise sneaking in. Quite lovely, and honestly, rather moving. Finish: fairly short but soft, still brimming with liquorice, veering gently into coffee grounds. Comments: I do wonder whether these bottles might have been ‘topped up’ or ‘ullaged’ along the way. It’s known that when, for instance, a case of twelve is unearthed, certain enthusiasts might sacrifice a bottle to bring the others up to level, not unlike the practices of Bordeaux châteaux with their ancient vintages. Anyway, this was most enjoyable.
SGP:551 - 85 points (but please, do not take this score too seriously).

To find out more about Bellows

Let’s move on to more recent things…

Banqero ‘Copper’ (40%, OB, Switzerland, +/-2023)

Banqero ‘Copper’ (40%, OB, Switzerland, +/-2023)
Yes indeed, ladies and gentlemen, Swiss rum has landed on WF for the very first time. Well, we’re not entirely certain it’s genuinely Swiss—one website claims it’s actually of Cuban origin and the result of a ‘quadruple distillation in a column still’, which is rather amusing unless we’re talking about tiny pot stills linked to some sort of tray system, though I rather doubt it. Colour: golden straw. Nose: a touch odd, somewhere between genepy, vanilla yoghurt, and a faintly dusty cupboard, but it’s all rather entertaining. Mouth: not too sure what to make of this, with light molasses, green pepper, pear eau-de-vie, and caramel showing up here and there… there’s clearly a sugariness lurking beneath the whole affair. Finish: short and earthier, this time bringing in notes of curry and plum spirit. Comments: amusing and honest, hoppla.
SGP:730 - 60 points.

Rivière du Mât ‘Grande Réserve’ (40%, OB, La Réunion, +/-2024)

Rivière du Mât ‘Grande Réserve’ (40%, OB, La Réunion, +/-2024) Two stars and a half
We’d already tried this one many years ago and it was rather good. This is a traditional rum, so molasses-based rather than pure cane juice. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely freshness, almost maritime in nature, with liquorice and anise making an appearance, as well as a floral touch (honeysuckle), and above all, gallons of freshly squeezed oranges with a drizzle of multifloral honey. From La Réunion, of course. Their pink peppercorn honey is splendid, by the way. Mouth: still sweet, with spices that clearly evoke the region, almost like a very, very mild rougail. This then veers towards something drier, with a touch of chocolate and chilli, a splendid combination. Finish: alas, it’s rather short—I fear the 40% really doesn’t do it justice, which is a pity. Comments: very pleasant juice, but their slightly stronger versions, such as the XO, have far more oomph.
SGP:640 - 78 points.

Mhoba ‘Bourbon Cask’ (48%, OB, Navigate World Whisky, South Africa, 300 bottles, +/-2024)

Mhoba ‘Bourbon Cask’ (48%, OB, Navigate World Whisky, South Africa, 300 bottles, +/-2024) Four stars and a half
Let’s keep this brief as we all know Mhoba is excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: no surprises here, it’s very good indeed, brimming with those hallmark wafts of waxed cardboard, fresh tar, seawater, then hints of acetone and varnish. A touch of caraway adds a lovely idiosyncratic twist. Mouth: the most Jamaican of African rums, and quite possibly the finest. A perfect harmony of liquorice and tar, mingling with citrus and wee petroly and basaltic touches. It then shifts towards saltiness, which is simply delightful. Finish: long, with both black and green olives making a proud appearance. Comments: best enjoyed while listening to Abdullah Ibrahim. We adore this rum—and the great Abdullah Ibrahim aka Dollar Brand every bit as much.
SGP:452 - 89 points.

Fiji 23 yo 2001/2024 (51%, Planteray for LMDW Foundations, Prestige Cellar, 258 bottles)

Fiji 23 yo 2001/2024 (51%, Planteray for LMDW Foundations, Prestige Cellar, 258 bottles) Four stars
A juice from Rum & Co. of Fiji (aka South Pacific Distillery), finished for four years in Ferrand cognac casks. One hopes the influence was minimal, naturally. Colour: amber. Nose: picture mango juice, peach liqueur, seawater, a drop of rose liqueur, and a splash of furniture polish all shaken together—and somehow, it doesn’t clash at all. With water: oh, it shuts down. That’s rare, and we are indeed using our official Vittel water (Nestlé, where’s that cheque?) Mouth (neat): this is charming, the cognac remains discreet and lets exotic fruits preserved in liquorice, olive oil, and Nordic fir tar liqueur take centre stage. With water: much the same, just a touch brinier. A lovely drop, and a cognac cask that knew how to behave. Finish: long, saltier, and more on petrol. Comments: really very good, and it seems just a little oilier than your average South Pacific.
SGP:553 - 87 points.

A Panama Distillery 2004/2017 (61.6%, L’Esprit, cask #BB 71, 256 bottles)

A Panama Distillery 2004/2017 (61.6%, L’Esprit, cask #BB 71, 256 bottles) Three stars
About time we gave this baby a go, we’re always on the hunt for great Panamanians. And we do so love when bottlers inform us, at 61.6% vol., that it’s cask strength. Don’t we just. Colour: gold. Nose: textbook stuff, corn syrup, a bag of sweets, hay, fresh grass, and cane syrup. With water: lovely natural vanilla and a selection of herbal teas, including the obligatory chamomile. Mouth (neat): the sweetie aspect is even more pronounced on the palate. Honey lozenges and maple syrup galore. Plus a fair bit of ethanol, let’s be honest. With water: soft, sugary, syrupy, with banana and pear liqueurs front and centre. Finish: much the same. A little pepper creeps in. Comments: not exactly my preferred style, far from it, but within this somewhat ‘hollow’ profile, I’d say it’s top-tier.
SGP:640 – 82 points.

Well now, let’s return to the Fiji Islands…

South Pacific Distillery 21 yo 2001/2023 (47.3%, The Colours of Rum, Fiji, cask #17, 222 bottles)

South Pacific Distillery 21 yo 2001/2023 (47.3%, The Colours of Rum, Fiji, cask #17, 222 bottles) Four stars
No reduction here, so one might presume either the ageing took place beyond the Arctic Circle—which we rather doubt—or the cask was a touch, let’s say, porous. Often the source of great surprises, as we've seen with many a sublimely aged Scottish malt. Colour: gold. Nose: well now, olive oil with a touch of acetone and almond milk. In the background, a curious mix of ink, saltpetre, soot, and guava juice. And I’m afraid to say it all comes together rather perfectly. Mouth: a little less precise on the palate, a touch rougher (like a Fijian rugby prop), yet naturally still excellent. The wood feels more present than usual, which might be down to the (relatively) low strength. Finish: long, salty, austere, fairly dry. Comments: not the easiest of drams… but still top class, much like Fiji’s national rugby team.
SGP:463 - 87 points.

Clarendon 17 yo 2004/2022 (57.1%, Precious Liquors, Jamaica, cask #433877)

Clarendon 17 yo 2004/2022 (57.1%, Precious Liquors, Jamaica, cask #433877) Four stars
Colour: amber. Nose: at first sniff, this is a soft and fruity Monymusk/Clarendon, low-ester, leaning towards hazelnut oil and hay. There’s something rather enigmatic about it. A pronounced note of mint as well. With water: resinous woods begin to push forward, particularly thuja, evoking the scent of a Moroccan tourist souk—Marrakech, Agadir… Mouth (neat): more assertive on the palate, but the cask was fairly aggressive, with plenty of fir resin, green pepper, and frankly, a lot of green tannins. With water: we’ve managed to tame it somewhat, guiding it towards citrus peel and budding shoots. But what a wild beast it is. Finish: long, green, astringent. Comments: goodness, what a battle. We like it a great deal, but this is truly a Clarendon for those who enjoy a proper scrap.
SGP:272 - 85 points.

Enmore 1991/2024 ‘KFM Versailles’ (48.3%, The Colours of Rum for LMDW FoundaEnmore 1991/2024 ‘KFM Versailles’ (48.3%, The Colours of Rum for LMDW Foundations, Guyana)tions, Guyana)

Enmore 1991/2024 ‘KFM Versailles’ (48.3%, The Colours of Rum for LMDW Foundations, Guyana) Five stars
Beautiful label, very MoMA, and we’ve no doubt the substance will match the style. As for the acronym KFM, I’m afraid we’ve forgotten what it stands for. Colour: mahogany. Nose: we’re stepping into a fifth dimension here, with rosewood and amourette, almond milk, toasted pine nuts, nectarines, Dior beauty creams (whatever, forget), prickly pear liqueur… all of this is sublimely beautiful and antique, as if one had wandered into old Florence. A massive surprise for me, I had never tasted this incredible baby before. Mouth: stop everything, this is Coltrane. To think America gave us both John Coltrane and Donald Trump. The oak is very pronounced, but it’s a most sublime sort of woodiness, veering into the realm of the noblest conifers. Douglas fir, perhaps? Finish: long and intensely fir-driven. Comments: totally unbalanced and deeply spiritual at the same time. Let’s be honest, this is pretty much liquid wood, but the aesthetic is faultless.
SGP:272 - 90 points.

Let’s see if we can find another top-notch rum that’s not so heavily wooded…

Clarendon 15 yo 2007/2022 ‘Early Landed’ (57.1%, Rum Sponge, Jamaica, refill barrel, 262 bottles)

Clarendon 15 yo 2007/2022 ‘Early Landed’ (57.1%, Rum Sponge, Jamaica, refill barrel, 262 bottles) Five stars
Once again we’re very late to the party. I confess, we’ve far more rum than we can possibly taste at our usual pace. Colour: full gold. Nose: well blast, this is spot on—diesel, seawater, apricot and mango all playing together beautifully. With water: in come the Ikea plywood and brand-new Adidas trainers. Mouth (neat): razor sharp—olives, capers, tar and pink grapefruit, with just two drops of orange blossom water. With water: the salt and varnish charge in and take over your palate. But caution—add too much water and it all falls apart. Three drops, no more. Finish: at +/-45%, it’s pure, fresh, saline, maritime, and ready for oysters or caviar. No need to chill it, unlike those vodkas. Comments: magnificent Clarendon—I’d guess an ‘MLC’ marque, but I’m no expert.
SGP:563 - 90 points.

The last one — well, we had to finish somewhere…

TDL 22 yo 2002/2025 (56.1%, The Whisky Jury, The Many Faces of Rum, Trinidad, refill barrel, cask #16, 229 bottles)

TDL 22 yo 2002/2025 (56.1%, The Whisky Jury, The Many Faces of Rum, Trinidad, refill barrel, cask #16, 229 bottles) Five stars
As our friends at the Jury remind us on the label, it’s not just Trinidad—it’s Trinidad and Tobago. Colour: deep gold. Nose: good heavens, mirabelles, mangoes, and apricots, drenched in gentle varnish and the softest, fruitiest pink olive oil. One simply bows before such beauty and purity. With water: sandalwood and cedar rise above all the rest we’ve just mentioned. Mouth (neat): this should almost be outlawed. Citrus juice and concentrate. Let’s press on… With water: who slipped in the toasted sesame oil? Truth be told, water’s entirely unnecessary; don’t bother, this one’s terribly hard to dilute properly. Best is to spritz the faintest droplets using an atomiser. I mean it. Finish: very salty, citric, petroly, superb. Liquorice reigns in the aftertaste. It has grown more and more extreme, frankly. Comments: if memory serves, there was once another distillery doing rather fine things in Trinidad (and Tobago!) Cirano? Carino? (hey, José Feliciano) … Ah yes, right, Caroni.
SGP:573 - 90 points.

(One thousand mercis to The Colours of Rum)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all rums we've tasted so far

 

 

 
   

 

 

 

Whiskyfun's Home