Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland

Glenfarclas-Glenlivet 15 yo (57%, OB, Pinerolo for Edward Giaccone, 75cl, early 1970s)
Edward Giaccone was one of the earliest and most influential whisky collectors in Italy, responsible for kindling the passions of many of his contemporaries and those that followed after. Colour: deep gold. Nose: hardwood resins, petrichor, earthy potting sheds, toolboxes full of oily rags, some very old Sauternes that has digested many of its sugars in beautiful fashion, flower honey fully crystalised and dried herbs, exotic teas, wormwood, cocktail bitters and the most delicate medicinal qualities. It's also rather stunning salty, in the style some tip-top old, bone-dry VORS Amontillado. With water: some ancient Fins Bois cognac emerges, one of those noses that makes you marvel at how great, oak-aged distillates can converge and play tricks on you. Also a stunningly vibrant fruitiness, full of sultana and mirabelle comes through. Mouth: to quote Serge from around 2007: "Pow!". An immediately thick and rugged sherry profile that's both fruity and honeyed, but also terrifically earthy and salty. Once again making you think of very old, dry Amontillados or Palo Cortado. But also aged citrus rinds, mineral oil, camphor, pine wood resins and tar, and then slightly gamey and animalistic qualities. With water: cured meats glazed in honeys, aged mead, camphor, plum wine and miso. Then salted butterscotch, wild mushroom risotto, tarragon and old Drambuie. Finish: very long, earthy, full of tertiary notes that make you think of herbal infusions, Maggi, old workshops, cough syrups and endless variations of old liqueurs. Stunning salinity returns in the aftertaste. Comments: we're already flying high and getting carried away! Unsurprising with this wonderful old masterpiece. I adore the umami / broths / salty elements of the profile, a style that's very hard to find in this perfectly balanced way, even in old bottles. 
SGP: 562 - 93 points.

Glenfarclas 21 yo (51.5%, OB, Pinerolo import for Edward Giaccone, bottled 1974)
Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: the 15yo but just altogether deeper, thicker and full of darker honey impressions, pure honeysuckle, flower nectars, mirabelle, quince and ancient, orange-themed liqueurs. Also more of these wonderful impressions of top class, very old Sauternes. Also many more subtle citrus notes, involving lemon marmalade, lemon verbena and citrus liqueurs. Exquisite, would be the word. With water: more of everything, only saltier and leaning slightly more towards wood spices, tiny threads of smoke and umami qualities. Mouth: another level, similarly all about stunning waxiness of texture, endless variations of herbal liqueurs, marmalades, medicinal balms, the most subtle and beautiful underlying peaty flavour and then even more subtle impressions of coal smoke, camphor, bouillon and miso paste. With water: let's try not to indulge in too much Maltoporn, it's a masterpiece, an ode to texture, flavour and beauty. Finish: very, very long, with more stunning interplay of honeys, resins, dry peat and endless subtle dark and citrus fruit notes. Comments: I think this one absolutely deserves its reputation. One of those whiskies which anyone who wants to understand what quality in whisky really means, and what the possibilities are for whisky as a drink, should endeavour to try. If nothing else, it's a singularly wonderful tasting experience.
SGP: 663 - 95 points. 

Glenfarclas 30 yo 1964/1995 (54.1%, Signatory Vintage, cask #4996, sherry butt, 480 bottles)
This one already carries quite the reputation, WF95 from Serge back in... 2005! Colour: deep gold. Nose: an amazingly precise orangey profile, within which lurks many variations of orange juice, orange peels, top class marmalades and aged orange liqueurs such as Cointreau. Add to that a gorgeous underlying waxiness, some ripe yellow plums, pure honeycomb and an increasingly wide-spectrum fruitiness that starts to display dried exotic fruits, muesli, pine resins and spearmint. Quite beautiful! With water: more crystalised, slightly drier, even a hint of acidity - a stunning freshness in other words. Develops some vibes of very old dry Chenin Blanc and Riesling, along with many more subtle waxes, breads and tea notes. Mouth: amazing power and density upon arrival! Waxiness of texture, amazing body in the mouth, chestnut and flower honeys galore, beeswax, then an encroaching saltiness that brings to mind very similar feelings as in the Giaccone 15yo. One of those flavour profiles where there is so much going on and you cannot 'see the joins' between all these different characteristics so you feel a little overwhelmed - in the best sense! A whisky that takes the driving seat. With water: perfect! Amazing waxy and bready qualities, crystalised honey, pure honeycomb and beeswax, lanolin, camphor, hessian, wood spices and cedar boxes full of unlit cigars. Finish: beautifully long, with persistent salty notes, mineral oils, herbal teas and almost going full circle back towards bitter orange marmalades full of spices. Comments: undoubtedly a total gem of a Glenfarclas. This one for me is almost more about the palate than the nose, which is rarely the case at such ages. Once again a poem to saltiness, waxiness and honey! 
SGP: 561 - 94 points.