Forres Face-Off: Benromach vs Dallas Dhu


September 11, 2025

Forres Face-Off: Benromach vs Dallas Dhu

A small tasting that makes little sense, except geographically, as both distilleries are located in Forres. Moreover, both whiskies come from the Gordon & MacPhail stable. A project by Aceo to restart Dallas Dhu using as much of the original equipment as possible still appears to be under consideration or even planning, but the distillery is already open to visitors once again.

Dallas Dhu (AI)

Benromach 20 yo 2003/2023 (57.7%, OB for LMDW Singapore exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #48, 189 bottles)

We love Benromach in ex-bourbon, now a safe bet, especially compared to some of their few slightly more… um, creative, oak-heavy offerings. Colour: pale gold. Nose: the power and near-maritime purity, certainly saline, of a Benromach left to its own devices in a well-behaved cask. Tiny touches of mint and fir buds atop a bed of oysters and seaweed. Plus some boot polish. With water: nail varnish and solvents come charging in, along with a bit of fresh butter. Mouth (neat) very powerful, nearly sharp, but oily and downright salty. Grape seed oil and a touch of concentrated lemon. With water: becomes a little more aerial, more coastal again, with those oysters now laced with lemon juice making a bold return. Let’s say two dozen. Finish: long, waxier still, some smoke, and even a tiny olive popping up at the very end to bid you farewell. Comments: hugely impressive, one of my favourite malts—I mean this style of 20-year-old ex-bourbon Benromach in general. The only flaw, it’s not exactly a surprise, boo.
SGP:562 - 91 points.

Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1971/2021 (59.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill American oak hogshead, cask #694, 56 bottles)

Tasted thanks to Stephen Rankin, via Angus, though in the peace and quiet of Château WF. That said, this isn’t the only very old Dallas Dhu we’ve sampled, but it’s true the 50-year-old 1969 from the same series left us a little less impressed, whereas this 1971—into which we’ve already dipped our lips—left us rather gobsmacked. So, let’s revisit it a touch more calmly… Colour: deep gold. Nose: age in all its full glory, instantly obvious on the nose but without any of the slight drawbacks one sometimes finds in very old malts—too much oak, excessive dustiness, and the like. Let’s say we’re dealing with a very classic composition, executed to perfection, with honeys, panettone, roasted figs, and just the faintest earthy undertone (celeriac) and one or two fir buds again. With water: water draws out the fir, fern, and mossy side… But the base remains on those powerful honeys, such as chestnut or forest honeydew. Mouth (neat): we haven’t enough experience to recognise Dallas Dhu on the first sip, but it’s true that this feels rather different, especially extremely oily, a bit in the style of, say, the best Fettercairns. A touch of pepper and quite a bit of chilli oil, all laid over a marvellously honeyed and fruity structure. With water: the whole thing relaxes and becomes fruitier and more bitter, a bit like a famous red-coloured Italian amaro, though naturally more subtle. That said, we’re not about to try it in a spritz, are we, even with Dom Pérignon. Finish: the oak becomes a little more pronounced, as one would expect, but all the honeyed and resinous notes (we know, they come from the wood) still hold the fort. Comments: of course, it’s quite a touch pricier than the Benromach, but really, this is a 50-year-old Dallas Dhu!
SGP:571 - 92 points.