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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 17, 2025 |
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From oranges, high altitude or a NATO bunker, a few more whiskies from around the world |
As usual, when we say ‘whiskies from around the world’, we’re excluding the major whisky-producing nations — Scotland, Ireland, Japan and, rather conveniently given the current climate, the USA, which we’re not particularly drawn to at the moment. This is by no means a boycott, but rather a chance to quietly build up our stocks while we wait for our natural goodwill to gradually return. Hopefully that won’t take too long... Right then, let’s start in France — more precisely in Brittany, the most Celtic region of our little country. |
Casks of Swiss whisky maturing at an altitude
of 3,454 metres (Rugen) |
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Eddu 15 yo (43%, OB, Distillerie des Menhirs, France, +/-2025) 
This well-aged Breton whisky, distilled entirely from buckwheat, was matured in ex-cognac casks, thus French oak unless struck by some unlikely mishap. Eddu carries a GI ‘Whisky de Bretagne’, which permits the use of buckwheat, itself a proud element of Breton identity—think of those famed buckwheat galettes (galettes de sarasin)! The last Eddu we tasted was the ‘Yes We Cam’ edition, which had been rather superb (WF 87). By the way, the distillery is located in Finistère. Colour: gold. Nose: less exuberantly fruity than expected, hence more composed, on banana and pear cake, scones, lovely caramel, then yellow peaches, rather fresh dried fruits and acacia and dandelion honeys. Subtle touches of orange blossom. Altogether very delicate, it does its fifteen years proud. Mouth: the raw materials come through more clearly, particularly beer and even a little mead, touches of cinnamon, hints of amaretti, white chocolate, then apricot and a teaspoon of Sauternes. Finish: nice length, a little more oaky but with finesse. The cognac doesn’t particularly show, unless, or because it’s been fully integrated. Comments: I believe this is technically a grain, yet it lacks the lightness one might associate with that category. One of the finest French whiskies in my humble opinion, far removed from that Napoleonic ethos seen elsewhere—you know, the sort of “let’s barge ahead, we’ll sort it later” philosophy.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
From Finistère to Yorkshire… |
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Filey Bay ‘Orange Wine Barrique’ (46.2%, OB, England, 1,100 bottles, +/-2025) 
Yay, some orange wine! These four casks hailed from Huelva in Spain and previously held ‘Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva’. Careful now, let’s not rush—this isn’t ‘orange wine’, it’s ‘wine made with oranges’, a maceration made with orange zest and, like its cousin, protected by a GI. It’s aged in solera as is traditional in those parts. Colour: gold. Nose: this isn’t triple sec in the slightest, there’s no orange explosion; rather we’re in gently sweetened fino territory, joined by a dollop of marmalade, all resting on a faintly earthy base that’s really quite lovely. Elegant, almost like an Andalusian horsewoman (ahem). Mouth: the oranges come through more clearly on the palate, though still with balance, and one might detect hints of Bénédictine and old Grand Marnier. Or yes, even Dalmore that’s not overly winey. Good fun. Finish: long, increasingly on orange zest, yet never calling out for ice cubes. Comments: it’s cool, it’s charming, it’s unlikely—but it works. Right then, now we’re just waiting for a double maturation in orange wine casks…
SGP:741 - 84 points. |
From Yorkshire to Newfoundland… |
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Signal Hill ‘Founders Select Overproof’ (56.3%, OB, Canada, +/-2024) 
Viva Newfoundland, viva Canada! That said, I must confess I struggled a bit with their standard 40% ‘blend’, but this ought to be another matter entirely. As for what exactly it is, the bottle simply says “Whisky”. Colour: full gold. Nose: very light, vanilla-led, with gentle honey, puffs of blueberry muffin and enough popcorn to get you through a full Ingmar Bergman retrospective. With water: not too bad, a touch oilier, with faint hints of beeswax and tinned pineapple. Mouth (neat): this feels very much like a wheat whisky, sweet, extremely light in texture, almost as if some cane syrup had been added. With water: becomes lighter still and rather feeble, reminiscent of old-style grain whisky. Frankly, it reminds me of that whisky from the former GDR, Der Falckner. Word is the latter’s been faithfully recreated since the Wall came down! Finish: short, sugary. Comments: not a disaster, but for a malt enthusiast, the lack of texture is glaring. They ought to throw in more malt.
SGP:520 - 68 points. |
Since we’re in Canada, let’s head over to Vancouver Island… |
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Stillhead ‘Garry Oak’ (50%, OB, Canada, Rye, 470 bottles, 2025) 
Here we are in British Columbia. This baby rye spent three and a half years in virgin American oak before being transferred to refill Garry oak from Oregon. Garry oak is said to be the only species native to B.C. – in fact, it’s Garryana, as used by Westland further south. Colour: full gold. Nose: the wood's vibrancy is stunning. Generally, I’m not one for overly oaky whiskies, but here the rye marries the wood beautifully, and the youthful age is never an issue. Certain notes bring to mind Polugar, that aged pot-still vodka. Brown sugar, cinnamon, fir, flambéed banana, mild curry, caraway, roasted pecans and a few hints of coffee. Impeccable. Mouth: delightful spices, caraway, lavender, cinnamon, turmeric, roasted millet, followed by violet and soft liquorice. This is excellent, and what’s certain is that this Garry deserves to be known. All jokes aside, this is a cracking alternative to the best of the new American craft whiskies. Finish: long, more on pumpernickel and rye bread. Bitter cocoa in the aftertaste. Comments: delighted to have stumbled upon this new creature in… Switzerland. Small world indeed.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Swiss Mountain Whisky 12 yo ‘Ice Label’ (52.2%, OB, Rugenbräu, Switzerland, 980 bottles, 2025)
Utter madness really, albeit the charming kind. After spending four years at the distillery, these casks were hauled up to the Jungfrau to mature for a further eight years inside a cave carved into the ice at 3,454 metres above sea level. One imagines this did little to hasten maturation, but the whole operation certainly adds an undeniable cachet. Next time they might as well chuck the casks onto the Lauberhorn and go for a downhill speed record. Ha. Colour: deep gold. Nose: dark ale, yeasty notes, very ripe bananas, sesame and poppy seed bread, spent coffee grounds, grey pepper… There’s no shortage of activity here. The brew-like origins really shine through. With water: damp earth, beer, rum, autumn leaves. Mouth (neat): there’s more to this than just a good yarn—the whisky is genuinely very good, more chocolatey on the palate, with rum-and-raisin, fruitcake, spiced figs, toffee… With water: even better with water, seriously. Lovely baked fruits, slightly brined. Finish: dark rye bread and fruit loaves. Apricots and such. Cloves. Comments: here’s a new frontier—high-altitude ageing.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
While we’re on the subject of mad ideas, let’s head over to Germany … |
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St. Kilian ‘Whisky Bunker Limited Release 2025’ (57%, OB, Germany, 476 bottles)
Matured, it would seem, in a former NATO bunker. The world of whisky appears increasingly populated by madmen, and that’s no small part of its charm. Colour: full gold. Nose: an avalanche of fresh breads of every stripe, drizzled with honey, apricot liqueur and a touch of orgeat syrup. The apricot liqueur is particularly forward. One hopes NATO won’t be needing this bunker any time soon. With water: earthy, bordering on compost—perhaps a gift from the bunker? Mouth (neat): sweet and spicy, almost Caribbean in style. That apricot liqueur reappears, joined by hints of cassava and gentian root, then mountain honey and more of those many breads. A slight cocoa edge from the wood. With water: the spices go absolutely wild. Finish: long, drier, with a salty touch and even a note of roasted aubergine. Comments: I reckon they’re just getting better and better, easily among Europe’s top producers—and all without taking themselves too seriously, which in my book is the ultimate virtue.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
Since it seems that, unless I’m wrong, there’s no whisky from Greenland (we would’ve loved that), we’re off to Denmark instead… |
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Thy ‘Bog’ (50%, OB, Denmark, 2024)
Beechwood-smoked barley and a spirit matured in oloroso and PX. And it’s organic. We’ve already tasted some superb expressions from Thy. Colour: gold. Nose: I don’t believe I’ve ever nosed a whisky so deeply rooted in smoked butter. All the rage in Michelin-starred kitchens these days. Then a medley of root vegetables—those long-forgotten sorts that are now all the rage again too, thanks to those very same chefs. In short, it’s distinctive. With water: a burst of lime tidies the whole thing up nicely. Mouth (neat): this is very different, which means it’s good. That’s where I’ve landed—so many malts are mind-numbingly samey these days (largely due to everyone using the same bl**dy casks). Liquorice, rubber, hawthorn and linden tea (and a lot of it) … With water: smoked pear, of all things! Finish: long, a touch more austere, with more ashes and a final whiff of dill-cured smoked salmon. Fitting really—smoking salmon with beech is quite the standard, isn’t it? Comments: brilliant. I even forgot to mention the oregano that turns up in the finish of the finish of the finish.
SGP:464 - 88 points. |
Since we’re up north… One last one. |
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Smögen 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Sweden, 172 bottles) 
Smögen is a session killer—unless you’ve got more Smögen waiting at the tasting table, it’s best left for last, as a rule. Also, we rather love these new retro-naive labels by Decadent Drams, looking as though they were made on a Commodore or an Atari. A welcome change from today’s ubiquitous AI-BS. Colour: amber. Nose: holy Suzy! And no one told me? Normally, we like Smögen when it’s taut, fresh, vertical, saline—but here we’re swimming in richness, motor oil from a Bentley (well, an old Saab), Brussels sprout liqueur (not a thing, thankfully perhaps), basalt sands, game, smoked fish… Bloody hell, this nose is extraordinary. With water: carbon paper, maintenance oils, fresh diving suit, cooked artichokes, and fermented fish (in the good sense). Mouth (neat): rather warm, yet austere, packed with tobacco ash and salt. Almost confrontational at this point, the scoundrel fights back. With water: ashes, peppers, and a dab of concentrated molasses. Finish: very long, salty and peppery, with more tar and drops of spicy pizza oil and brine in the aftertaste. Comments: these people are a menace, truly. One’s tempted to ask for a Smögen ban, much like a casino ban. Blame shared between the distiller and the bottler here.
SGP:475 - 92 points. |
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