
August 18, 2025

WF's Little Duos, today Glenmorangie NAS vs Westport sherry

Westport is supposed to be the name given to Glenmorangie with a teaspoon of Glen Moray added, but I imagine that since Glen Moray joined another stable, namely the French group La Martiniquaise, a different malt is now used, though that’s far from certain. Unless, of course, the name Westport is no longer in use; in any case, we’ve never tasted one that was distilled after 2006. But let’s begin, if you don’t mind, with a little Glenmorangie NAS ‘Triple Cask Reserve’. I often say that this kind of name reminds me of the time when small watch brands, caught up in the race to boast ever more jewels in their movements (17, 25, 30 or more…), would add ones that served absolutely no mechanical purpose, they were just there to look posh or ‘technical’ or ‘improved’ or whatever crosses the minds of marketeers…

Glenmorangie ‘Triple Cask Reserve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)

A mix of ex-bourbon, new charred oak and ex-rye casks, sold at a very gentle price in France, under €30 in certain hypermarkets. Colour: gold. Nose: typical Glenmorangie, that is to say rather rounded and soft, on pastries and, in this case, a generous dollop of custard. We then veer more towards malt, lager beer, fresh baguette (mais bien sûr) and honey laced with a touch of turmeric. Mouth: coherent, with zest, more oak but without ever veering into plankishness, and a little more tension than on the nose. On the other hand, it then turns a tad prickly and green, even slightly sour, perhaps it’s the active casks responsible. Or is it the rye? Finish: decent length, some clear tannicity, green tea and a bit of ale. Aftertaste on white pepper and a suggestion of ginger recalling the turmeric from the nose. Comments: not bad at all, I think, though perhaps better served cool, say at 12°C.
SGP:461 – 79 points.

Westport 21 yo 2003/2025 (53%, Decadent Drams, sherry wood, 228 bottles)

Colour: amber. Nose: quite a different kettle of fish altogether, here the sherry’s brought along tobacco, cedarwood, chestnut honey, forest floor, mosses, a touch of tar (no sulphur at all, let’s not get carried away) and eventually some modelling clay that rather recalls a distillery located a bit further up the east coast. Also chestnut purée. With water: it drifts back somewhat towards a more classical Glenmorangie profile, with stewed apple and cinnamon. So, it loses in originality but gains in balance. Mouth (neat): rich, rather spicy, even peppery right from the off, in the style of a goulash prepared with honey and candied sugar. We’ll have to ask our Hungarian friends whether such a thing exists. Also some speculoos and… rye bread! With water: we stay in spicy sherry territory, almost mustardy now, with pipe tobacco returning. Harvey’s sauce. Fine bitterness and a touch of cinchona. Finish: long, still spicy. Honey, pepper and mustard, we really must try that in a sauce. Comments: a truly distinctive bottle, one that stays with you, I think. By the way, the giraffe on the label, evoking the distillery’s tall, narrow-necked stills, is indeed Glenmorangie’s mascot. No, Ardbeg did not go with the hippopotamus…
SGP:462 – 87 points.

Check the index of all Glenmorngie we've tasted