Old Clynelish is back on the tasting table


May 8, 2025

The Time-Warp Sessions: Old Clynelish is back on the tasting table

To commemorate the official end of WWII in Europe, 80 years ago. Stop killing children, stop all wars.

(SMD/DCL)

Rather oddly, we discovered ‘Old’ Clynelish via Brora, as it was when we tasted the latter for the first time that, after two or three quick searches, we learned the ancient history of this legendary Highland malt, notably that it used to be called Clynelish, until its whisky was renamed ‘Brora’ instead of, very temporarily, ‘Clynelish II’, a decision made by the D.C.L. as early as December 1969. And not in 1975, as a few distinguished sources continue to claim – although, gulp, we've just seen that ChatGPT is, more or less... right.

In any case, we published our first tasting notes for the famous ‘Old’ Clynelishes more than twenty years ago, and perhaps is it high time we revisited the two best-known versions: the 12-year-old ‘light vatting’ and the 12-year-old ‘dark vatting’ bottled for M Di Chiano in Italy, both at 43% ABV instead of the 70° proof/40% ABV of the British releases. Then we’ll add a very rare older version…

Clynelish 12 yo (43%, OB for Di Chiano, light vatting, short golden cap, early 1970s)

Il’s worth bearing in mind that Clynelish ceased using its own maltings in 1965, so these earlier batches were still very much ‘floor-malted on site’, which might partly explain their rich, textured body, despite the low bottling strength. Naturally, the 100° proof versions done for Giaccone are a different kettle of fish altogether… Back then, M Di Chiano in Milan was Clynelish’s exclusive importer for Italy. Colour: white wine. Nose: the smoke here is rather more dominant than in other old Clynelish, with heaps of ashes, paraffin, linseed oil, those delicately balsamic notes we’re so fond of, plus chalk, limestone, almond oil, citrus, a chalky, cementy edge, hints of spent fireworks, seaweed... Without a doubt, this is the most ‘Islay’ of the old Clynelishes, and it’s hardly surprising that the owners chose this distillery to pursue an ‘Islay-style’ whisky towards the end of the 1960s. That’s the spirit of Brora. Mouth: a tad austere at first, very Old Clynelish, all on lemons, menthol, camphor and, once again, a surprisingly peaty character. At least, compared with other versions. Lovely yeasty, saline touches, and never does it bow its head. Finish: supremely long, salty, packed with ashes, seaweed and soot. That sootiness is a bit of a hallmark here as well. Comments: always a massive pleasure to revisit these babies, hugely elegant yet with that rustic touch we adore. After all, this is a true Highland malt. Naturally, the 100° proof bottlings belong to an even higher league.
SGP:365 - 92 points.

Clynelish 12 yo (43%, OB for Di Chiano, dark vatting, short golden cap, early 1970s)

A darker batch, well known in its own right, though I’ve no idea where the stark difference in colour stems from. More sherry? More first-fill? More caramel? One should recall that in those days the trend leaned towards ‘lightness’, and paler hues were thought to indicate a lighter spirit. Colour: gold. Nose: quite a different beast altogether, almost certainly more sherry-driven, with a more expansive nose showing farmyardy and even meaty tones (smoked bacon), already hinting at the polishes (metal, leather, wood) that would later become hallmarks of early Brora. Gorgeous notes of dried mushrooms (morels, porcini), coffee, pu-ehr tea and tobacco. Hugely impressive. Mouth: but it’s almost aggressive, despite over fifty years in glass! Smoked teas, cured meats, seaweed, tobacco, mandarins, a dash of seawater, then that proverbial wax… Finish: long, more austere, with the arrival of walnut wine, perhaps from the sherry influence. Quite peppery as well. Comments: my previous notes—granted, for a different bottle—date back to January 2005. Yet I see no reason to alter my older score.
SGP:464 - 94 points.

Clynelish 27 yo 1965 (51%, Scotch Malt Sales, Japan, 500ml, +/-1992)

The wee blurb on the label is a charming reminder of the ‘amateur’ nature of these bottlings at the time, very likely re-packaged from other legendary bottlings such as the 1965s from Signatory Vintage or Cadenhead. ‘This whisky is casked malt served from the barrel directly to this bottle for carring’, it reads, how utterly delightful, it's even more unlikely than the idle chit-chat on WF! In any case, this is a very rare bottle, and it’s our first encounter with it, though given the reputation of these Japanese babies, we know it’s in the glass, not on the label, that truth prevails. As it should be. Colour: gold. Nose: slightly hesitant at first, it takes a good thirty seconds or so for the full ‘Old-Clynelishness’ to kick in, but when it does, it roars forth with boot polish and motor oil, followed by pipe tobacco and bone-dry old white wines. Then come ancient herbal liqueurs and the whole contents of a granddad’s rusty toolbox… With water: musty old cellars, vintage tools, dried paint tins, and even a hint of coal dust. Mouth (neat): huge, all on polish and citrus, so indeed, very Clynelish. Then faint touches of turnip and slightly rancid butter. Not the most immediately charming of old Clynelish. With water: and bang, it opens wide—chartreuse, verbena, grapefruit liqueur, dill, eucalyptus, camphor, shellfish, waxes, propolis, pine sap… Finish: fairly long, carrying those same notes forward, getting nearly medicinal, and with a strong maritime edge. A final flash of Sicilian citrus liqueur brings it all to a close. Comments: it’s not immensely powerful, but even after all these years, it still needs water. A stunning Old Clynelish nonetheless, one that simply demands your patience to reveal its full, eternal, impressive glory.
SGP:563 - 95 points.

(With heartfelt thanks to Max and KC)

Check the index of all Clynelish we've tasted so far