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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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January 27, 2025 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
one of the most recent Longrows versus one of the oldest |
I'll admit it—this is probably the most nonsensical session in the world. In essence, we’re going to place ourselves at the two extremes of the same malt—and not just any malt. On one side, we’ll have a very recent 7-year-old infused with red wine, and on the other, the very last cask from the very first year of Longrow distillation at Springbank, 1973. If you’re up for trying this slightly extreme (and maybe a bit silly, let’s be honest) adventure, then let’s dive in with enthusiasm and, above all, an open mind... |
Campbeltown, 2005. A picture of questionable
interest (WF Archive) |
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Longrow 7 yo ‘Red’ (57.1%, OB, Pinot Noir cask, 10,000 bottles, 2024) 
4 years in bourbon followed by 3 years in French Pinot Noir casks, from Burgundy as we read here and there. Thus far, peat and red wine have paired about as harmoniously as mustard and coffee. Regarding these Longrow Reds, we’ve already endured Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Australian Shiraz, Port, Nebbiolo from Barolo, and even Pinot Noir in a 12-year-old from 2022. At least we’ve been spared Merlot, Tempranillo, and Zinfandel. But buckle up, Montjoie! Saint-Denis! off we go… Colour: light gold, not quite as ‘red’ as one might expect, which is rather surprising. Nose: it whispers at first, offering that lovely fresh rubber characteristic of Longrow, before a combination of raspberry liqueur, tomato leaf, charcoal, fatty lamb (chorba), and finally those coastal notes we so adore make their presence felt. It seems that a degree of balance has been maintained this time. With water: the distillate appears to retain the lead on the nose, and rightly so. No overly discordant red berry notes, though perhaps a hint of ‘hare’s belly’, as they say in Burgundy. Mouth (neat): the wine definitely asserts itself on the malt, with a strong impression of guignolet (cherry liqueur) beyond the pepper and salt. It’s somewhat like tasting a smoked oyster with redcurrant jelly. Strangely enough, it’s not bad this time. With water: well, yes, this isn’t bad at all. The fresh rubber returns, along with bitter oranges, clams, bacon, and pepper. Finish: long, leaning towards green pepper, roasted bell pepper, salt, and rubber, though bitter oranges add a touch of contradiction. The aftertaste is heavily peppery. Comments: not the worst of these ‘Reds’; on the contrary, we rather like it. How about Alsatian Pinot Noir next time?
SGP:665 - 82 points. |
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Longrow 1973 ‘First Distillation - Last Cask’ (43.2%, OB, cask #1723, +/-1990) 
Cask 1723 was the very last filled during Longrow’s first year of distillation at Springbank in 1973, using malted barley heavily peated by prolonged exposure to peat smoke. Let’s recall that at the time, peated malts were in high demand by blenders, while Islay was somewhat underproducing. There had been an original Longrow Distillery in Campbeltown, but it only operated in the 19th century and was closed in 1896—its warehouses are now used by Springbank. This bottle is, of course, rather rare but, oddly enough, not completely unobtainable. Colour: straw. Nose: an incredible profile, very distinctive, both peaty and gentle, with a faintly resinous fruitiness that immediately recalls yellow Chartreuse (the one with honey), followed by almond milk, seashells, hints of thyme and rosemary, a stack of old books half-bound in leather (indeed), an aged mink coat, and finally camphor and an old Tiger Balm-like softness of infinite elegance. It feels a bit like encountering a superbly aged old Chardonnay, perhaps a Montrachet. Fir honey emerges after ten good minutes. Mouth: that very faintly cardboardy note found in some of the earliest ‘new’ Longrows reappears, but the salinity, ashes, and delicate touches of suet and bacon are simply magnificent. The overall impression is wonderfully delicate, almost fragile, as if whispering, yet the saline, tarry, and camphorous notes are not far removed from those of old Ardbegs, like the 30-year-old ‘Very Old’. Altogether, it’s like fine lacework… Finish: not very long but highly elegant, remaining delicate and saline, rounded off with a few drops of excellent mead. There’s an amusing medicinal touch right at the end. Comments: with just a little more oomph, this could have been an ultimate star. One imagines the bottling strength of 43.2% was natural and that, after about twenty years, the cask underwent significant evaporation in a cold, damp warehouse. In any case, it remains magnificent.
SGP:564 - 92 points. |
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Alcohol levels |
| Reminder: In a hot and dry warehouse, it’s the water that evaporates more, which can increase the alcohol content. Conversely, in a cold and damp warehouse, it’s the alcohol that evaporates, which will lower the alcohol content. |
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