Our remote Feis Ile 2025, today at Lagavulin


May 24, 2025

Our remote Feis Ile 2025, today at Lagavulin

This year, we're getting back into the good habit of organising our own little Islay Festival at Château Whiskyfun, tasting the malts on the very day of their open days. But it's still a symbolic gesture—we're a bit behind schedule, so no lengthy sessions this year, just duos and trios. Well, we’ll see… Today, we thought it would be fun to feature just two very young independent Lagavulin, so naturally, not labelled as ‘Lagavulin’, but their origin is unmistakable. Watch out, things could get lively as we're heading to Taiwan and Germany…

Secret Islay 9 yo 2013/2023 (53.9%, Whisky Picnic Bar and Cuckoo, hogshead, cask #13000581)

Here we are back in Taiwan. Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re firmly in the world of the 12 official C/S bottlings, though this one’s a tad drier, leaning more towards ashes, charcoal, dried seaweed, smoked ham, and even a hefty ashtray brimming with lit cigars. In the background, a hint of vanilla and a splash of cough syrup. With water: conifers in all their forms, pine and fir needles, wood smoke, buds, balms, sauna oil… we’ve drifted from an Islay beach to a Finnish forest. Mouth (neat): it’s charmingly austere, salty, smoky, loaded with ashes, with a touch of heather honey bringing just enough sweetness to round it out. With water: what class in this distillate! A burst of small citrus fruits, fresh herbs and spices, rosemary, and a suggestion of ground cumin… Finish: long, coming across as richer by this stage. Fabulous bitterness and pepper. Comments: an incredible little hogshead au naturel, the best style for Lagavulin, naturally.
SGP:477 - 90 points.

In theory, since the next one has been mixed with wine (in one way or another), things might not turn out as hoped…

Steel Cookers Railway 6 yo ‘Tripple Cask’ (62.1%, Jack Wiebers Whisky World, bourbon, sherry and wine, 2025)

A most improbable, yet thoroughly entertaining bottling involving 3D printing, some sort of glass sandblasting, and a 1938 steam locomotive. And wine! I do find the whole affair has a faint whiff of Mad Max about it, but come on now, let’s be brave and hold on tight… Of course I jest, the wee Lagavulins from JWWW can be superb… Colour: amber. Nose: well, this is massive, no doubt about that, yet curiously elegant too, very compact, packed with massage balms, thyme oil, bay leaf, leather, black olives in brine, and bitter oranges. I’d almost call it balanced, yes really. With water: it turns much more medicinal, deeply camphory, to the point where you wonder whether it’s not better suited for external application. Mouth (neat): extremely powerful, very salty, full of salted liquorice and tobacco, with a thick glob of tar that insists on taking centre stage. A lovely wee monster! With water: some fruity glimmers now, Lagavulin is often fruity, especially with strawberry eau-de-vie, though here you’ve also got cherry. The worst part is that it works. The rest remains very salty, and of course very peaty. Finish: long, still compact, massive, with a touch of ouzo. I assure you, you can dilute this down to 1/3 whisky, 2/3 water. Comments: there’s a comic edge to this formidable and explosive ultra-young Islay that, as they say, takes no prisoners. Highly recommended, it’s pure fun.
SGP:567 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Lagavulin we've tasted so far