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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé!
   
   
 

August 3, 2025


Whiskyfun

Rums from Brazil to Trinidad

In fact, we're going to Brazil, Madeira, Mauritius, Cuba, Trinidad, Panama and Jamaica. Does that work for you?

Suitcase

 

 

Casa Engenho 8 yo (43%, OB, Brazil, +/-2024)

Casa Engenho 8 yo (43%, OB, Brazil, +/-2024) Three stars
From a ‘Traditional Brazilian Farm Distillery’ near São Paulo, established way back in 1889. This isn’t cachaça, mind you, but rather proper rum, distilled from the estate’s own cane juice. Now nothing whatsoever to do with the Madeiran ones from Engenho Do Norte or Engenho Novo, which we’re rather fond of. 'Engenho' means ‘mill’ in Portuguese. There, now we more or less know everything… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s light yet shows a lovely salinity, faintly fermentary touches, and even hints of ashes and iodine that wouldn’t bother anyone fond of coastal malt. Then there’s some freshly sawn fir wood sneaking in. All in all, a fresh and charming nose. Mouth: same general sensations, a fine salinity again, a discreet but rather charming vinegary edge, then increasingly camphory notes that veer into the medicinal. One only wishes it had packed a little more punch. Finish: the fresh cane makes itself known, though the finish doesn’t hang about for too long. Comments: this is most pleasing, I must say I quite like it. I’ll see if I can get my hands on more.
SGP:352 - 82 points.

About Madeira…

William Hinton ‘Smoked Rum’ (40%, OB, WH Club, Madeira, +/-2025)

William Hinton ‘Smoked Rum’ (40%, OB, WH Club, Madeira, +/-2025) Three stars and a half
Rum from Madeira, presumably of the agricole persuasion, finished in ex-peated whisky casks. What could possibly go wrong? Colour: gold. Nose: well, let’s be honest, it seems to work, as the fermentary, slightly mustardy ashes from the rum meld rather agreeably with the peaty smokiness of the whisky, even bringing out a rather amusing tar-and-anise combo. But the devil always lurks on your palate… Mouth: mad stuff, but it still works. Capers and olives, bags of ashes, lime juice, and again that touch of mustard, even a wee bit of horseradish and ginger à la sushi-bar. Finish: medium in length, still very pleasant, with a lingering impression of smoked olives. Comments: now here’s a surprise! Just goes to show… Though it’s a pity it wasn’t bottled with a little more oomph. How many times do we write that each week?
SGP:363 - 84 points.

Well then, let’s continue the journey with another rum that's been in a whisky cask…

Penny Blue 15 yo 2009/2024 ‘Ex-Whisky’ (60%, OB, Mauritius, LMDW Foundations, cask #206, 94 bottles)

Penny Blue 15 yo 2009/2024 ‘Ex-Whisky’ (60%, OB, Mauritius, LMDW Foundations, cask #206, 94 bottles) Three stars and a half
Attention, this is not a finishing, it’s a full maturation in an ex-whisky cask. Perhaps ex-Glenrothes, as Berry Bros. are at the helm? Colour: amber. Nose: soft and rounded, all on cake and the sort of pastries served in proper British hotels for afternoon tea at five o’clock sharp. We shan’t list them all but suffice to say the whisky influence remains rather discreet. With water: it’s the sugarcane that takes centre stage, and perhaps there’s a touch of malt in the background. Mouth (neat): very powerful, lemony, plenty of sugarcane but it clearly calls for water. With water: creamy and gentler, with candied citrus peels and the faintest whisper of salt. It remains a light-textured rum, as do most Mauritian offerings, at least in my limited experience. Finish: of medium length, mild and easy-going. Comments: well, it wasn’t an ex-Laphroaig cask!
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Let’s carry on with whisky…

The Outlaw Rum Co. 2019 ‘Flagship’ (40%, OB, Trinidad, cask #001)

The Outlaw Rum Co. 2019 ‘Flagship’ (40%, OB, Trinidad, cask #001) Four stars
So, Caribbean rum aged in Huntly (rings a bell) in ex-Scottish whisky casks. Colour: gold. Nose: full-on petrol and we’re all for it, likewise that gloriously overripe mango that fills the room like some tropical potpourri. At no point do the low ABV levels make themselves known, at least for now. This must be TDL. Mouth: very good! Same markers—petrol, mango, bananas, liquorice, hints of jasmine, a drop of seawater and half a black olive—though the wattage does feel a tad restrained. Finish: lovely, but the lack of punch becomes more apparent here. A pity. Comments: really excellent, but let’s have a slightly more ‘bodybuilt’ version next time, please.
SGP:642 - 85 points.

Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (51.9%, Whiskydudes, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #88191, 128 bottles)

Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (51.9%, Whiskydudes, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #88191, 128 bottles) Four stars and a half
Supposedly one of those old HC casks (not too sure, some are) many of which turn out to be quite splendid. We approach this one with the same greedy anticipation as a large cat locked in a cupboard for three days (true story—though not us, the cat) … Colour: dark red amber. Nose: maestro-level stuff indeed, albeit a little reticent for now, all on old wood varnishes, cocoa, naturally cigars (but of course), and blood orange liqueur… I reckon a few drops of water will help it come alive. With water: magnificent, the tiny herbs emerge, alongside soil, undergrowth, mosses, and a whisper of umami. Mouth (neat): it is sweet, but in the very best way, with a wide array of syrups and liqueurs—orange, prickly pear, grenadine, violet, and yes indeed, sugarcane. With water: the herbs come back, so do the soft spices, though the syrupy texture persists. Finish: long and very gentle. Comments: it does feel like it may have been ‘dosed’ either at birth or somewhere along the way, but it suits it rather well, no worries there, even if the semi-sweet profile is quite pronounced.
SGP:740 - 88 points.

El Ron del Artesano 2007 (57.4%, OB, Panama, oloroso sherry cask, +/-2024)

El Ron del Artesano 2007 (57.4%, OB, Panama, oloroso sherry cask, +/-2024) Four stars
Panama may not be our favourite rum source, but this is without doubt our preferred Panamanian-fuelled brand. Colour: gold. Nose: what’s rather charming here is the combination of hay and dried flowers with toasted hazelnuts, all wrapped in a rather elegant molasses note. With water: curious whiffs of bagasse and damp fields after the rain. Mouth (neat): creamy, easy-going, in the style of the big-name supermarket rums, only much better, even if there’s more caramel and praline than strictly necessary. Loads of orange liqueur as well, and a grapefruit that helps to hold everything in tension. With water: nothing to complain about really, I suspect this is the best you can hope for in this sweet style. The oloroso seems to help a little, though it’s not a dominant feature. Finish: not very long, but clean. A slightly sugary aftertaste, nonetheless. Comments: a lovely Panamanian, no doubt, and it stays well within its style.
SGP:640 - 85 points.

Boulet de Canon ‘1’ (46%, Compagnie des Indes, blend, +/-2015)

Boulet de Canon ‘1’ (46%, Compagnie des Indes, blend, +/-2015) Three stars
We’re rather fond of this small French outfit, even if I believe they’ve been keeping a low profile of late. All’s well? This one’s a blend of rums from Trinidad, Barbados and Guyana, finished in Talisker casks. Indeed. They’ve released many Boulet de Canons since, but this is the first, so it carries a bit of historical weight (of sorts). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s fresh, all on yellow and white fruits, it feels youthful, with a faint smokiness (Talisker?) that’s actually quite pleasant. More of a pocketknife than a cannonball at this stage, but we’ve nothing against a trusty penknife. Mouth: earth, ashes and even a hint of peat take the lead at first, though it quickly turns sweet. There’s a rather straightforward cane syrup character here. Finish: medium length, sweet and gentle in style, though never excessive. Comments: the name conjures something along the lines of a rampaging tyrannosaurus, but this one’s more like a cuddly lamb. Here too it feels a bit like it may have been slightly ‘dosé’ as they say in Champagne.
SGP:632 - 80 points.

Time for the big guns…

Trinidad Distillers Limited 16 yo 2008/2025 (63.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club #3, Trinidad, 231 bottles)

Trinidad Distillers Limited 16 yo 2008/2025 (63.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club #3, Trinidad, 231 bottles) Five stars
Same question as when tasting Caroni, ‘heavy or light?’ Or a bit of both? If there’s no petrol-mango in here, I’ll eat my beret. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: petrol-mango (too easy, S.), freshly sawn orchard wood, peanut butter, and quite a bit of ethanol which initially gets in the way. Only one solution, with water: fresh plywood and new balsa, tar and coal tar, but also bitter almonds and two or three mussels in white wine. Yep. Mouth (neat): peach liqueur, mango liqueur, black pepper, basil, varnish, aniseed, liquorice, acetone. With water: slightly bitter olive oil, likely Spanish, then it unrolls into exotic fruits with salted liquorice. Finish: mango comes back to wave goodbye, which is nice. A hint of rose jelly. Very pretty salinity. Comments: let’s say it plainly, the mango and tar combo is irresistible. But how much is the Club membership? Not like at Turnberry, we hope.
SGP:662 - 90 points.

One last pour, let’s make it pop…

Clarendon 10 yo 2004/2024 ‘MBS’ (60%, LMDW Foundations, Magnum series #2, Jamaica)

Clarendon 10 yo 2004/2024 ‘MBS’ (60%, LMDW Foundations, Magnum series #2, Jamaica) Four stars
The MBS marque has nothing to do with any Saudi crown prince, this is actually the lightest marque from Clarendon/Monymusk, with likely fewer esters than Glenkinchie, unless the pipes hadn’t been properly cleaned after a previous ‘heavier’ run. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: indeed light, but elegant, you’d almost think it came from Belize or Barbados, with dandelion, natural vanilla, popcorn, nougat, sugarcane juice, and quince jelly… With water: a touch of gently singed hay. Mouth (neat): there are a few esters, even a hint of wood glue, but the rest is soft, fresh, vanilla-driven, very much on almond croissants and those dainty Caffè Armani pâtisseries (best forgotten). With water: all on macarons and amaretti. But of course. Finish: curiously short yet still focused on small almondy pastries. Comments: nothing especially distinctive here, it’s just extremely good.
SGP:641 - 85 points.

So, we need to find another creature, hang on a second…

Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 ‘HTR’ (59.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, Intercaves Limoges)

Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 ‘HTR’ (59.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, Intercaves Limoges) Five stars
Caroni is a bit like Port Ellen or Karuizawa ten or fifteen years ago, just when you think they’re gone, there’s more. HTR means ‘Heavy Trinidad Rum’, naturally, and Limoges is home to the most beautiful train station in the world, I assure you. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: well indeed, this one slams down the cocoa, American V8 engine exhaust, lit cigars, tapenade, and plastic model glue. You know the style... With water: even more exhaust fumes and coal tar. Mouth (neat): dry and woody as it gets, but that’s just how we like it. Likely tropical ageing, very politically correct, though it sometimes pushes the oak into heavy-handed territory. Fir wood, dark tobacco, thyme essential oil… On the flip side, the salinity and everything around the varnishy notes add some fine tension and energy to the whole. So far so good. With water: indeed, still good, the salinity takes over and we half expect oysters, mussels, razor clams and even lobsters to come clattering in. Forgot to mention our dear friends green olives and garlic cloves. Finish: very long, classic. Comments: after all these detours, and despite the now ever-present oak, we must admit this remains one hell of a spirit. Just don’t add too much water, even at 60% vol., as it only boosts the already pretty extreme tannicity. Bonkers rum.
SGP:373 - 90 points.

(Merci, Edwin)

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