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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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July 26, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Six Dornoch single casks
There’s more and more of these Dornoch single casks out there these days, which is great as many are very good and it’s very satisfying to see independent, quality-focused businesses like this succeed. Especially as they add much needed colour (and character) to Scotch Whisky’s all too often monochrome marketplace. Let’s catch up and try six of them from last year. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (50.2%, OB, cask #67, 1st fill bourbon octave, 77 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: syrupy green and exotic fruits with a nibble of wood spice behind. Green pepper, sandalwood, pulped pineapple and mango juice. This one feels like a very careful balance between the fruitiness of the distillate and the obvious power of that tiny cask. With water: a pina colada, really dominated by coconut water, fruit pulp and hints of hot climate rums. Mouth: a nicely concentrated feel upon arrival, with tropical fruit juices and teas leading the charge. Although, you do get a bit more assertion from the wood here, with more green pepper, wood spice, cedar and sandalwood notes. More impressions of pineapple juice and some greener hints of crushed nettle. Makes me think a little of some very good Inchmurrin. With water: more peppery heat and power from the wood, but the general fruity structure still holds true. Finish: medium, on white pepper, fruit salad chewy sweets and sunflower oil. Comments: I would say balance has just about been struck. On one had it shows the superbly concentrative power of these wee bourbon casks, but on the other, they have a short lifespan.
SGP: 651 – 86 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2017/2024 (55.2%, OB, cask #22, 1st fill bourbon octave, 69 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: leaner, greener and grassier. More on cooking oils, crushed green herbs, grasses, nettles, lime leaf, lemongrass and hints of ginger – would make a good Dark N Stormy cocktail! With water: peaches and cream with some pink marshmallow, gorse flower, sandalwood and rapeseed oil. Mouth: this one also has quite a bit of American oak coconutty vibes up front, also some hints of new leather shoes, condensed milk, mineral oils, tinned peaches and fruit salad juices. Again, pretty spicy and peppery. With water: some sort of spiced limoncello, with tiny hints of fruity red chili, more cedar wood notes, lanolin, cooking oils and lemon oil. Finish: rather long, with some more exotic notes coming through, along with cannabis resin and pineapple jellybeans. Comments: they are a lot of fun these young Dornoch single casks, you just have to be in the mood to get your chops around a bit of wood spice.
SGP: 651 – 87 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (55.8%, OB, cask #82, bourbon octave, 80 bottles) 
Colour: deep gold. Nose: banana chips, herbal teas with honey, fruity muesli, crushed nettles, mango chunks, more cannabis resin and a nicely aromatic waxiness emerging. With water: lemon verbena, hot house flowers, vapour rub and tea tree oil. Mouth: another very syrupy and spicy one, but I find here that the fruitiness keeps pace a bit more, it’s also got an even more pronounced grassy and olive oil vibe. Crushed nettles, cider apple, mint, jasmine flower and spicy, exotic fruit teas. With water: juicy fruit chewing gum, lemon curd, fruit salad juices and cooking oils. Finish: long, quite fruity, even a bit estery with some green banana in the aftertaste. Comments: I enjoy the distillate character that seems to dominate a little more assertively here. Was it a refill octave?
SGP: 641 – 88 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (56.3%, OB, cask #94, 1st fill bourbon octave, 93 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: resinous fir woods, menthol characteristics, rolling tobacco, even toothpaste. This one is off to a slightly more unlikely start. There’s also some foam banana sweets and even a bit of banoffee pie. With water: caraway, coconut shavings, ground ginger, nutmeg and baked plantain. Mouth: coconut cream, retsina, green peppercorns, banana liqueur, some rather strong mead and sweet cider. It’s a bit dominated by the wood for me, I’m afraid. With water: café latte, stout ale, pumpernickel bread and flambeed banana. Finish: quite long and very spicy. You definitely feel the wood closing in. Comments: a good example of what happens when these wee casks cook the whisky a tad too intensely.
SGP: 561 – 84 points. |
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Dornoch 7 yo 2017/2024 (56%, OB, cask #38, 1st fill bourbon octave, 74 bottles) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: another tenser and sharper one, immediately quite refreshing after the previous one in that it’s much more about cut grass, olive oil, lemon rind, bay leaf, crushed nettles, gooseberry and lime. Also an elegant and fresh herbaceous quality emerges with a little time. With water: lemongrass, wool, peppery watercress, juniper and hint of pineapple. A much more unusual profile than the others, but I like this more distillate-driven and sharp profile. Mouth: rather citric, sharp and even with quite a bit of acidity. Again, very tense and precise in profile, perhaps even slightly austere. A little chalky, some lemon juice, wool, dry waxy notes, mineral oils and, with time, some underlying green and yellow fruits emerge. With water: grassy, oily, drying, waxy and mineral. A more classical old school profile finally emerges and brings a greater sense of coherence. Finish: long, mineral, even slightly salty, with olive oil, grass, petrol and wax. Comments: complex, grown-up whisky for distillate geeks! Obviously, that includes me.
SGP: 461 – 88 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2019/2024 (60.7%, OB for The WhiskyFind 10th Anniversary, cask #160, ex-Islay quarter cask, 164 bottles) 
Presumably an ex-Laphroaig quarter. Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: It’s a good job we saved this one till last, the peat comes through loud and clear, but with some Dornoch fruit character at play as well. Sandalwood shaving foam, tangerines, charred pineapple rings, slightly sooty and waxy notes, bonfire embers and unlit cigars. With water: aromatic wood smoke, anchovies in brine, miso paste, smoked olive oil, a bit more complex and settled now I would say. Mouth: really quite peaty, big wood spice notes, hot BBQ sauce, TCP and black olive tapenade. Also, a lot of tar, old rope, hessian and malt vinegar. With water: still a massive dram, very salty, umami and with a dense, thick, slightly ashy smokiness. Finish: long, tarry, dry and full of raw peat and bonfire smoke. Comments: Dorphroaig? The peat has really dominated here and produced an immensely potent, slightly monolithic wee dram. One of those clever and very fun whiskies that would lead you endlessly in circles if tasted blind.
SGP: 466 – 86 points. |
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