Ten Blair Athol at full gallop


October 21, 2025

Ten Blair Athol at full gallop

Blair Athol is much more than just the last petrol station (so to speak) before Edradour, there have already been a fair few truly historic bottles.

And if you've never tried an old 8-year-old with the black label from the Arthur Bell era, do so as soon as you can; they still come up at auction now and then. Let’s not forget that Blair Athol was, for a brief time, part of the famous Classic Malts of Scotland… granted, it was very short-lived. Right then, let’s go about things a bit randomly today, but we’ll try to keep a certain logic to it...

Blair Athol 12 yo (80°proof, OB, Pure Malt, +/-1975)

This isn’t the black label one, rather the blue label that came just after. There was also a crimson-labelled Dufftown in the same vein. Colour: white wine. Nose: full-on barley with a dash of engine oil and paraffin for good measure. One almost feels transported to a field just as the combine harvester has rumbled through, its engine not exactly purring, mind you. It’s utterly charming. Mouth: similar impressions carry through, though we’re now veering into overripe apple territory, beyond the barley syrup and a whisper of lightly sweetened tea. Immensely malty, quite beer-like on the whole, not tremendously complex, and certainly without the dazzling fruitiness found in 1960s vintages. Still, rather good. Finish: medium in length, on apples and malt. Comments: this is very, very pleasant indeed, though all told just a tad on the simple side—think… Bell’s.
SGP:541 - 83 points.

Speaking of bottlings from the 1960s, let’s move from theory to practice...

Blair Athol 8 yo (80° proof, OB, Highland Malt, UK market, early 1960s)

Colour: gold. Nose: nothing much to do with the 12-year-old, this is far oilier and more phenolic, with hints of smoke, greasiness, earth and wax, along with floor polish and paraffin, and some rather surprising notes of fresh mango to round things off beautifully. A stunning nose. Mouth: superb, citrus takes the lead from the outset, soon giving way to a mad gallop of earthy and oily flavours—olive oil, sesame, a touch of metal polish and boot wax, and a splash of old-school cough syrup with a serious alcohol kick (the sort that had you back on your feet in no time). And then, the mangos return, though in rather more discreet quantity. Finish: fairly long, just a hint metallic and faintly peaty, yet gloriously waxy and citrusy to the last. Comments: sheer beauty! Between us, I might well have guessed an old young Springbank had I tasted it blind.
SGP:562 - 92 points.

Right, that’s enough of the old relics...

Blair Athol 15 yo 2009/2025 (46%, Royal Mile Whiskies, small batch, French oak, 633 bottles)

Careful now, French oak often means wine casks, let’s see… Colour: ripe apricot. Bingo. Nose: there’s definite wine influence here, with strawberry-raspberry jam, even a touch of wild strawberry liqueur, blood orange, and a good deal of rosehip tisane. The malty, slightly waxy backbone holds it together rather well, let’s be honest. Mouth: no doubt about it, winesky territory, and one could easily picture this in a spritz atop a mountain of ice cubes by the poolside at forty degrees in the shade. Prosecco already included, how convenient. Joking aside, it’s actually rather nice. Finish: long, fairly soft, with a touch of grey pepper and some red berries keeping it lively. Comments: malt whisky 3.0. Let’s not be stick-in-the-mud traditionalists, this is very nicely done.
SGP:641 - 82 points.

Blair Athol 12 yo 2013/2025 (51.6%, Tri Carragh, 1st fill Port barrique, 174 bottles)

The reracking (quite right) took place in 2024. One might expect another red fruit explosion… Colour: gold. Nose: far less vinous than the previous one, though that may well be down to the higher strength, let’s not leap to conclusions, even if the hue is indeed less ruby-ish. Raisin buns, honey... With water: even more raisin rolls and honey. And let’s face it, raisin rolls are one of civilisation’s finer creations (aren’t they?) Mouth (neat): lovely! Caramel, fudge, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, candied cherries... The caramel stands out particularly and leans rather heavily towards crème brûlée. With water: perhaps just a touch more grapey now, with hints of stalkiness not usually found in Port, though maybe best not to add water here. Finish: medium length, more charming without dilution. Comments: water swept away the raisin rolls. Still, no matter, this remains an excellent Blair Athol.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Blair Athol 16 yo 2007/2024 (55.1%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, oloroso sherry)

Gorgeous label, let’s hope we find those mushrooms on the nose… though too much mushroom in a wine or spirit can tip into flaw territory. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: quite a bit of red fruit for an oloroso, and there’s clearly some PXness in the mix too. That said, it all comes together rather perfectly, classic, rounded, fruity, full of figs, walnut wine, and ta-dah, Mars bars. Certainly not a particularly dry oloroso. With water: marzipan soaked in kirsch. We do love that, brings out our Teutonic side. Mouth (neat): surprisingly jammy for an oloroso, more reminiscent of cream sherry in fact, especially as the sherry impact is utterly massive here. But that jamminess is lovely, bolstered by a good dose of pepper. With water: again with the almond paste and cherry liqueur, plus that distinct ‘cream’ character. You might call it oloroso dulce, but there’s a hint of Guinness in there as well... Finish: long, a touch less polished, more rustic in style. Comments: I feel this oloroso was slightly searching for itself, but all in, it’s still a thoroughly excellent maltsherry.
SGP:651 - 84 points.

Blair Athol 13 yo 2009/2023 (51.7%, Whisky Picnic Bar and T.S.M.C., hogshead, 282 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: back to base camp, barley, sunflower oil, soft vanilla and very ripe apples. You’ve no idea how much joy this sort of thing brings. With water: all clean lines, chalk, grist, oils, cider... Mouth (neat): magnificent, with bitter almonds, Seville oranges, pine honey, green tea… glory be to natural hogsheads! With water: even better, now with touches of mint and a dash of absinthe. Finish: fairly long, rather refreshing, and that’s precisely the danger with this kind of malt. They really ought to slap on a label reading “not to be used to quench thirst”. Comments: truth be told, it’s probably not the most complex malt whisky out there, but the balance and authenticity are simply spot-on.
SGP:451 - 87 points.

Blair Athol 12 yo 2009/2021 (58%, Timeless & Tasty, Whiskies & More 7th Anniversary, bourbon hogshead)

‘The label showcases the vibrancy and charisma of Hong Kong’s women’, or so it claims. Colour: pale white wine—hurrah. Nose: we’re even closer to the distillate now and having sampled the new make on-site in Pitlochry myself, I can vouch for it. Fresh brioche, biscuits, panettone, caramel fudge, oatcakes and just a wisp of the gentlest honey, think acacia. With water: a little more pear now, a sure sign of youth. And remember, youth is the future (how smart, S.). Mouth (neat): magnificent young malt, very fresh, very fruity—apples, pears, lemons and plums—with an even higher danger coefficient than the previous dram. With water: but this is glorious! Honeyed cider with a touch of vanilla and a few drops of Californian IPA, something like old-school Lagunitas from fifteen years ago. Finish: fairly long, with splendid bitterness. Comments: this whisky was clearly chosen by an aesthete. I’ve no idea who that was, but they deserve the platinum medal of Whiskyfun—if such a thing existed, of course.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Blair Athol 11 yo 2014/2025 (59.2%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, for LMDW, hogshead, cask #308672, 277 bottles)

This one's really brand new. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is amusing, there’s a very Germanic currywurst note to start with, laced with floral touches of lily, hibiscus and jasmine… What on earth? With water: back to cakes, barley, limestone and sourdough. Mouth (neat): compact and efficient, sweet and spicy, almost like an entire tin of Basler Läckerli. And if you don’t know Basler Läckerli, that’s your problem, not mine (S., please!...) With water: the water blows open the exotic fruit, banana, plantain, and a beautifully soft ginger. Finish: rather long, honeyed, coated, sweet but indeed quite spicy too, with plenty of ginger and even a dusting of dried porcini powder, Italian-style. Comments: a young, rich, marvellously syrupy version, highly recommended.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

... how about we taste a very old Blair Athol?...

Blair Athol 38 yo 1986/2025 (51.5%, One8Nine, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #20078, 122 bottles)Blair Athol 38 yo 1986/2025 (51.5%, One8Nine, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #20078, 122 bottles)

Blair Athol 38 yo 1986/2025 (51.5%, One8Nine, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #20078, 122 bottles)

It doesn’t seem I’ve ever come across such an old Blair Athol before, have you? The price strikes me as very reasonable, what's more... That said, one always feels a degree of trepidation before approaching such an old malt, has it weathered the years with dignity? Let’s find out promptly... Colour: mahogany. Nose: exactly what we'd been hoping for, extremely old umeshu mingling with a medley of ancient waxes, antique books, prunes and tamarinds, cigars, hoisin sauce, lovage, chestnut honey and... some venerable armagnac and very old agricole rum. Never has the old adage—that all the world’s ancient spirits eventually converge—rung truer. Splendid. With water: old wood dust and crumbled masonry, then dazzling echoes of jamon iberico—say, 9,582,437 belottas, if that were a valid rating. Mouth (neat): a rather surprising profile on the palate, opening on propolis by the ladleful, then pine resin, pepper, bitter orange, and above all, black truffle. Mind you, we are not speaking of sulphur here, this is pure black truffle. With water: the addition brings out oaky and fir honeydews. Finish: long, with the arrival of mint chocolate, as fashioned by a proper artisan chocolatier in Perthshire—or anywhere, really. Tamarind jam, black propolis and fir resin seal the whole affair. Comments: this is not one of those old malts trying to appear young like a fading Hollywood actress attempting a comeback—on the contrary, it wears its years proudly, and that is precisely what gives it its towering charm.
SGP:581 - 93 points.

I think we need one last very young BA to cleanse the palate before moving on to other topics on WF… Well, you know what I mean.

Blair Athol 9 yo 2014/2024 '100 proof' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill oloroso butt)

Blair Athol 9 yo 2014/2024 '100 proof Edition #9' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill oloroso butt)

Colour: mahogany. Nose: it gives precisely the impression that, had this whisky aged on to the venerable age of 38, it might’ve ended up alarmingly close to that sublime 1986 we’ve just tasted. Do with that what you will... With water: stout, toffee, and chocolate fudge galore. At the end of the day, it’s still a young malt. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent in its earthy, resinous profile. Bitter orange lifts everything nicely and, believe it or not, almost makes it feel fresh. With water: much the same again, just maltier and a touch softer. Barely. Finish: long and even more chocolate-forward, with just the faintest dusting of pepper. Comments: a lovely bottle, you simply have to like chocolate. Perhaps a slice of chocolate cake, then…
SGP:461 - 86 points.

Right, ten is enough. There’ll be more Blair Athol soon, but for now, we’re officially calling it a day. I’ll just add that it’s a real shame the vast majority of available BAs are independents, with official bottlings practically non-existent, Òunless you count the very old releases from the ’60s and ’70s. That’s over 50 years ago, after all... You’re quite right, and then there’s the Flora & Fauna version...

(Merci to KC)

Check the index of all Blair Athol we've tasted