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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 9, 2025 |
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Ten Macallans, both official and independent ones
Although the distillery – or rather, the brand – has become something of a symbol of poshness and glitz, every tasting reminds us that it still maintains a high level of quality and deserves to be taken seriously, despite the endless stream of NAS bottlings with sometimes far-fetched stories and themes. In any case, as Suetonius said, “Veritas in poculo est.” The truth is in the glass… Let’s begin with two small official NAS bottlings, then…
(Suetonius, Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493) |
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Macallan ‘Jing’ (43.9%, OB, The Harmony Collection, 2024) 
An expression drawn from American and European oak casks seasoned with sherry and ex-bourbon, inspired by Phoenix Honey Orchid Tea, a Chinese oolong offered by tea merchants called ‘Jing’ (whom we didn’t know, mind you). We’re supposed to find notes of peach, orchid and honey, or so they say, although figuratively of course. We had rather enjoyed ‘Vibrant Oak’, while the other ‘Harmony’ offerings left us a little more indifferent. Colour: gold. Nose: the oak is a little prominent at first, as is often the case with many contemporary official malts, but the marmalade and maltiness quickly come through. Then lots of damsons and stewed cherries. There is indeed also a faint touch of rose petal, which may well be the aforementioned orchid. Mouth: nothing to complain about here, it’s good, initially on honey, citrus zest and ginger, then comes the speculoos and quite simply cinnamon. And I can’t help but detect a little tea, somewhat drying as well, though that’s quite common with malts matured in fairly active casks. Finish: fairly long, rather on bitter oranges, candied cherries, chocolate and dried raisins. A hint of coffee at the end, that must be from the casks too. Comments: I find this really quite good and will now start taking more interest in ‘Jing’.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |

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Macallan ‘Classic Cut 2025’ (50.6%, OB) 
There’s a new edition each year, and I suppose we ought to follow them all, but we don’t. Not out of principle, it’s just turned out that way. That said, the last one we tried, the 2020, really was far too oaky (WF 78). Colour: gold. Nose: so far, it’s close to Jing, the cask make-up seems fairly similar, though perhaps a touch more herbal, with ale and fresh malt coming through. Nothing to complain about at this stage. With water: marmalade and a little honey, this is charming. Perhaps not €150-charming, but charming. Mouth (neat): same remarks, we’re not far from Jing again but there’s fresh oak in fairly generous quantities, though that’s offset rather nicely by citrus which brings a certain tension. With water: the label claims ‘A multisensory myriad of dynamic and evolving flavours are unveiled with the addition of water’, so let’s see. Evolves towards light earthy notes, still oaky and chocolatey. Dark chocolate. The oak remains a little present… Finish: medium length, with a return of the ale and the malt, and a woody-honeyed aftertaste. Pine wood notes, and even a touch of thyme. Comments: I find it better than some of the previous editions I’ve managed to taste.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |

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Speyside (M) 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #19’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt) 
The contest might seem a bit lopsided, let’s admit it. But of course this isn’t OB vs. IB, not at all. Colour: golden amber. Nose: this is ‘darker’ than the OBs, with more raisins, toasted walnuts, chestnut honey, a few Mars bars, and dark turron… Personally, I enjoy this, even if for now it hasn’t veered towards the meaty, the herbal, or the bouillony… Mouth: this time the spices take centre stage—caraway, star anise, cinnamon and above all nutmeg and coriander seeds. It’s all rather lovely but it does somewhat push back the softness of the chocolate, honey and raisins. On the other hand, the dark chocolate stands out more. Finish: long, with the arrival of bitter oranges, very bitter indeed. Aftertaste strongly marked by cumin and nutmeg. Comments: not the most classic of styles, but of course I like it. That said, we haven’t overtaken the new OBs yet. Still, we’re talking a third of the price…
SGP:561 - 84 points. |

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Speyside (M) 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #18’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt) 
A marginally earlier edition, but one showing similar characteristics. Colour: golden amber. Nose: this feels a little rounder, with sunflower oil, but otherwise it’s quite similar. Milk chocolate rather than dark, shall we say. Mouth: there’s slightly less spice here, indeed, and we’re closer to chocolate with citrus. A touch of pink grapefruit, which is fun. And pink pepper while we’re at it. Finish: fairly long, once again close to #19, but without the barrage of spice. Comments: truth be told, we’re extremely close, but as they say, one could drink a double magnum of each, head-to-head, and still not be entirely sure they’re really different. Are they? Let’s say we slightly prefer this one, but that’s even more arbitrary than usual.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |

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Speyside (M) 14 yo 2010/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #16’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt) 
Colour: golden amber. Nose: this time we’re getting quite a bit of resinous honey, fir honeydew for instance, along with more freshness—orange peel and citron zest. Also a faint floral note. Mouth: the style of the previous ones is clearly present, very marked by oak spices, especially cumin and clove. Slightly terpene-like. Lovely honey, nice herbal infusions. Adding water… doesn’t change much, let’s move on. Finish: long, herbal, with green spices in the style of #19. Nice aftertaste on almonds and kirsch. Comments: let’s not start the double-magnum debate again. Of course we’re very close.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
Let’s have a look at a big brother… |

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Speyside (M) 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.7%, Signatory Vintage for World of Whisky Waldhaus 25th Anniversary, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #17/A106#35, 642 bottles)
Colour: full gold. Nose: how to put it—this is immediately more complex, on oils, sesame, hazelnut, pistachio, then freshly malted malt and almond liqueur. The sherry is surprisingly discreet, but it’s definitely there, lurking in the background. With water: glorious touches of metal polish, which we just love. Bruised apples. Mouth (neat): oh oui, yes, ja, claro—earthy oranges absolutely everywhere. Plus some spearmint and a really lovely fennel-dill combo. A small hint of coconut. The sherry remains well in the background. With water: still earthy—roots, mushrooms, fallen fruits, damp leaves… Finish: it carries on with soft oils, almond paste, a few tiny raisins… Comments: rather a fine bottle, quite ‘different’, no doubt from a fairly ‘different’ butt. By the way, if you’re ever in St. Moritz, Switzerland, do stop by the Waldhaus Hotel to (figuratively) plunder their incredible whisky bar.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |

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Marketing Malt 16 yo 2008/2024 (53%, Decadent Drinks, first fill sherry hogshead, 349 bottles) 
Strictly speaking, there’s nothing on this label that wouldn’t suggest we’re dealing with an ‘M’. Colour: red amber. Nose: the kinship with the earlier indies is fairly obvious, only here we’re getting a few more stewed fruits—mostly damsons but also a few strawberries—and a sherry that edges slightly toward rancio. Amusing medicinal notes in the background, including camphor. Some pepper too. With water: touches of old wine cellar. And we do love old wine cellars, even more than the Sistine Chapel. Mouth (neat): it does feel a bit Christmassy, sorry—spices, ginger, star anise, caraway, heather honey, a touch of rum and caramel, pipe tobacco… With water: the word is out—fruitcake! But also some rather curious touches of dried fish. This M is really quite protean. Finish: fairly long, on tobacco and also those maritime notes. A little leather. Comments: it’s got as many curious angles as the Waldhaus, only they’re just not the same ones.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |

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Secret Speyside (M) 30 yo 1993/2024 (49.7%, Casky Hong Kong, Finest Selection, 7th Anniversary, sherry hogshead) 
The whisky scene in the bay is truly remarkable—and no, we’re not talking about San Francisco Bay. Colour: dark amber. Nose: here’s a fine example of a mature spirit crossing paths with other categories—cognac, rum and the like. Peach and apricot jam and liqueur, a touch of wild mango, the softest of fudges, raisins, various honeys, a dab of beeswax polish… this really does smell of time, and time is the main ingredient in all great aged spirits, is it not. Mouth: sumptuous, very (too?) marked by dried fruits and sweet old wines—we’re getting close to old Rivesaltes, sweet Madeira, PX or even white Port. We happen to adore all that, so the impact here is 100% on us. Perhaps those who enjoy Coca Zero (hint, nod) might be less convinced. Finish: not terribly long, but the mere fact that these flavours, now joined by a little pink and black pepper, carry on at all is already great news. Comments: Château Macallan at its finest. A beautiful sherry, even if it was ‘only’ a hoggie.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |

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Macallan 30 yo 1990/2021 (58.3%, Gourmet Pool, Germany, hogshead, cask #7394, 61 bottles) 
Small outturn, big whisky, as Confucius once said during a momentary lapse of reason, a sentiment later revived with some success and not a little sorrow by Pink Floyd (S., stop the whisky). Colour: gold. Nose: we’re close to those old-school Macallans, especially the 30yo blue label, or indeed the 1970 18yo—sheer splendour. Gentle earthiness, walnuts, mushrooms, dried raisins, pipe tobacco, apricots, truffle, dried figs… You see where we’re going, textbook classic style from the great era. With water: rather glorious, on beeswax polish, oranges, honeys and blond tobacco. And let’s not forget our old friends the sultanas. Mouth (neat): good old times indeed, with honey, figs and oranges taking the lead, quite simply. With water: … and the sultanas… Finish: what was also so lovely in these old Macallans were those tiny salty touches that added real dimension to the whole. Just like here. And the waxes. Comments: of course…
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
Just to be sure, and to wrap things up, let’s dip into some older vintages… |

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Macallan 18 yo 1975/1993 (54.4%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, hogshead, cask #8880, 248 bottles) 
We’re now entering the tail end of the truly seminal years for the distillery, though we’re still clearly within them. Colour: gold. Nose: how about a banana cake discreetly drizzled with a little rum, alongside a mirabelle and honey tart? Then add some peanut butter, dried fig and vintage English blond tobacco, and you’ll have a fair idea of the beauty of this lovely liquid. With water: add faint notes of damp paper, old books and beeswax. Mouth (neat): oh yes, here comes a procession of lively, aromatic little herbs, mainly lemongrass and peppermint. All carried by honey cake and wine-soaked figs. With water: this glides into all the beehive things—typical of a great hoggie that knew how to behave. Pollen, wax, honeys… Finish: not very long but of infinite delicacy, with lemon blossom honey and still those little waxy notes. A tiny pinch of salt at the end, as a kind of signature. Comments: its overall delicacy may mean it isn’t clearly superior to the others, but good grief, how utterly delicious this was.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
I think that’ll do for this time. More Macallan coming soon. |
(Merci to KC and Sebastian) |
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