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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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January 9, 2025 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Dufftown |
I know, we've had some Dufftown quite recently, but we wanted to taste this little Ukrainian version we've just received. To pay tribute to it, we'll then bring out one of those incredible 8-year-olds dating back to... well before Gorbachev. |
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Dufftown 15 yo 2008/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, armagnac cask finish, 102 bottles) 
This is actually maturation since this baby from Ukraine spent 45 months in an armagnac cask, so more than 36 months. Let us hope that very soon, we shall no longer need to send cannons and may instead primarily export casks of armagnac, empty or not, to Ukraine. Slava Ukraini, and peace! Colour: light gold. Nose: it’s the malt that speaks, and it’s a very lovely malt. Orange caramel, bergamots, roasted hazelnuts, maple syrup, salted butter caramels, apples… Some delightful hints of anise in the background—perhaps there was a drop of pastis in the armagnac. Just joking. With water: more rustic. Earth, foliage, baker’s yeast… Mouth (neat): a touch of peppered apple. One might wonder whether the equation malt whisky + armagnac = calvados might hold a little truth. Joking aside, this is good, fruity, generous yet fresh… With water: it works, the oranges charge in at full gallop and carry the day (what?). Finish: long, on apples and plums, with perhaps a few raisins. Perhaps… Comments: all of this works very well, with armagnac, much like cognac for that matter, embracing the malt without ever disfiguring it. Bud’mo!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 8 yo (80°proof, OB, early 1960s) 
With the 80°proof mention under the golden line—it does make all the difference, doesn’t it. Of course, in theory, this Dufftown should be brushing the stars, but in any case, take this as a tribute to our Ukrainian friends. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s some OBE, with that metallic edge (old copper coins, pennies, vintage tools), but the development, on rare herbs and all sorts of oils and broths, is simply magnificent, especially as old herbal and mint liqueurs come along to complete the picture. These Dufftowns from Arthur Bell & Sons were simply incredible. Mouth: oh my! It’s slightly bitter, with plenty of pine sap, for example, but there’s also an incredible salinity and, above all, stewed fruits cooked in a copper cauldron with absolute majesty. Figs then bring everyone into agreement, followed by menthol and liquorice. Cough syrup. Finish: long, on gentle broths and chutneys. Magical. Comments: the 80°proof (46% vol.) works wonders, even after all these years. A perfect point of balance, these slightly higher strengths hold their ground much better than those at 40/43%, as we’ve often observed. After all, this bottle is over 60 years old, perhaps even more. Very impressive. It leaves me speechless (you’ll probably say ‘thank goodness!’).
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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