The world is ours once again


January 20, 2025

	The world is ours once again
	This time, we will once more set off from France – although the location of Château WF also allows us to easily depart from Switzerland or Germany – and then we’ll go on to visit Spain, Italy, Germany, Denmark, and Korea…

Ninkasi 2018/2024 ‘LAB 007’ (51.8%, OB, France, Tokay de Hongrie, cask #101, 162 bottles)

We are near Lyon, in Tarare, where this young whisky was fully matured in Tokay casks, therefore in sweet wine wood. They are now also experimenting with vacuum distillation, a technique that seems to be attracting more and more interest, but this whisky appears to have been distilled in Charentais alembic stills. We had enjoyed LAB 005 two years ago (WF 85). Colour: full copper. Nose: the Tokay is intensely present and even dominant, bringing to mind the universe of an ultra-fortified sweet wine. The good news is that the malt feels light and allows itself to blend in without resistance. Notes of toasted bread, butterscotch, overripe peaches, glue, and beeswax polish. With water: little changes, though faint hints of an old wine cellar emerge. Mouth (neat): somewhat ‘premix’, with the bitterness of European oak (Hungarian?) and slightly muscat-like, sweet notes of Tokay. It’s very distinctive. With water: it leans towards bitters, mustard, Greek-style pickled mushrooms, bitter beer, old walnuts, and amontillado. Finish: fairly long, prolonging the palate. Comments: some elements are reminiscent of BM. Very difficult to score—I feel LAB 005 was more approachable. Take this with a grain of salt.
SGP:461 - 82 points.

Sherishòr 12 yo (54%, OB, Spain, ‘pure malt whisky’, 1400 bottles, +/-2024)

This is actually 3-year-old ex-bourbon Scottish malt, further matured for 9 years in Andalusia in genuine bodega oloroso sherry casks, some 50 years old. These are real solera butts, not the bespoke seasoned casks that almost everyone else uses. We had already tasted a 45% ABV version, which we liked immensely (WF 87). Colour: amber. Nose: exactly as expected, meaning absolutely brimming with roasted nuts, plump raisins, and dates coated in dark and milk chocolate. Then a touch of Mon Chéri (if I may). With water: more elegant, with English pipe tobaccos, black teas, and mocha. Mouth (neat): quite a lot of oak, suggesting these butts weren’t all that ancient, but the oloroso character is full-on. Bags of dark chocolate, old walnuts, black pepper, cloves, and pipe tobacco. It’s almost like a Jerez brandy, though without the sweetness of 99% of them. With water: it remains dry and perhaps a touch rough due to massive spices—plenty of pepper. Finish: long and very spicy. 90% dark chocolate and heavily roasted coffee beans. Comments: I wouldn’t say it’s ‘better’ than the 45% ABV version; in fact, it feels drier, but it’s still excellent. A true journey to Jerez, straight from your glass.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Right then, off to Italy…

Exmu 2021/2024 (49.5%, OB, Italy, for Whisky Milano, first fill sherry rundlet, cask #20100-004, 150 bottles)

This comes from Sardinia, and the cask was a rundlet. Remember Springbank’s ‘Rundlets & Kilderkins’ series? Apparently, a rundlet is an archaic (apologies, Sardinia) English measure equivalent to 15 imperial gallons. I’ll add that we loved last year’s Exmu ex-bourbon version (Spirit of Sardinia 45.5%, WF 88). Colour: dark amber. Nose: excuse me? What is this? It opens with bold wafts of geranium, tomato bush, prickly pear, and cherry-flavoured pipe tobacco (as far as I recall), then moves towards prunes and juniper. Very unusual. With water: chocolate and whisky truffles. Mouth (neat): Mon Chéri gets mentioned yet again (no product placement here, though perhaps we should), followed by coriander seeds and an avalanche of blackcurrants and sloe berries. Hints of wood glue and kirsch with water. Okay, yes, it does evoke wood glue. Finish: long, with black tobacco, blackberry jam, juniper, and a touch of marmalade at the end. Comments: twists and turns, but this is quite spectacularly… Andalusian. Apologies again. After all, Sardinia does seem like the part of Italy closest to Jerez.
SGP:661 - 86 points.

Since we're on the topic of slightly crazy things...

St. Kilian ‘Whisky Solera’ (57.6%, OB, Germany, 683 bottles, 2024)

We couldn’t find a photo of this very recent release, but we didn’t want to delay things, so we used a photo of a previous version—hope that’s fine? Colour: deep gold. Nose: sherry, peat, and candied citrus, followed by a touch of burnt tyre and even hints of inner tube whiffs. Lovely, especially since it’s all very well-integrated, with no single aroma dominating, not even the burnt rubber. Is that the solera effect? With water: notes of stable, horse saddle, barnyard… we adore it! Mouth (neat): this is truly well done, with that same sense of ‘oneness,’ even if it’s rather intense. Ginger, nutmeg, honey, peat, mandarin, liquorice, wormwood, lemon… a proper little orchestra. With water: as usual, the wood spices come forward a bit more. Finish: long, with peppered marmalade, smoke, and a faint saltiness. Comments: I think French distillers should add a touch of madness and genuine uniqueness to their concepts and go for less of the ‘serious’ approach—they could take inspiration from St. Kilian (though I’m not sure Bud Spencer and Terence Hill would resonate in France, to be fair).
SGP:566 - 86 points.

St. Kilian 2017/2024 (58.8%, The Whisky Jury, Germany, first fill oloroso, cask #1535, 315 bottles)

St. Kilian 2017/2024 (58.8%, The Whisky Jury, Germany, first fill oloroso, cask #1535, 315 bottles)
Independent bottlings of whiskies from ‘world’ distilleries are quite rare, and when they happen, it’s always a good sign. The Jury had already selected a St. Kilian 2019/2023 that I found superb (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: very Islay-like, heavily peated, and rather fresh, with the sherry’s walnuts lurking in the background. That said, without water, it’s not very complex—but that’s perfectly fine. So… With water: once again, water works wonders, unveiling citrus fruits and medicinal touches (camphor, iodine, ointments, eucalyptus, etc.). Mouth (neat): bold, lemony, citrusy overall, and very peaty. But avoid wrong turns—they might almost kill you (I just tried—gasp!). (long pause…) With water: pronounced ginger and cinnamon notes bring out the wood, but there’s also buttery orange cream, and then… and even lemon tart. And then… Finish: very long, with fairly typical signs of youth. Citrus, spices, peat, and prominent ginger. Comments: I’d say it’s on the same level as the 2019/2023… but rather less entertaining than the official solera.
SGP:567 - 88 points.

Thy (48%, OB, Denmark, single malt, 2024)

This is the ‘core’ single malt from the Danish distillery. So far, we’ve only tasted one Thy, a beautiful indie version by BB&R (see comment about indie bottlers above). Moreover, this is an ‘own-estate’ malt and organic too, with one of the barleys being ‘Babushka,’ which can’t help but remind us of Kate Bush, can it? Bottled in December 2024, so it’s very fresh. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s indeed very fresh, lively, maritime, elegant, delicately smoky, with apples, lemon, seaweed, small oysters, then green melon and jasmine. One raisin and one fresh walnut. Beautiful vivacity. Mouth: truly distinctive, still fresh, fairly powerful, starting with blueberry (quite unusual), then blood oranges, fresh walnuts, liquorice, and smoky citrus (if such a thing existed). You almost want to add water, though that doesn’t seem essential… With water: a touch more towards oranges and fresh ginger. Finish: long, always fresh, fruity, joyful, and distinctive. A hint of violet, strawberry (from peat—yep), with a few ashes in the aftertaste. Comments: I really like this a lot—it has style! There are plenty more Thys to taste, and we’re looking forward to it.
SGP:653 - 88 points.

Caogad Tri 2020/2024 (61.9%, Whisky Werk, Germany, virgin oak, cask #3)

This is whisky distilled to Whisky Werk’s specifications in a German distillery that isn’t mentioned, there’s a sheer number of distilleries in Germany. It’s interesting to see distilleries working to order like this, rather than just selling fillings or mature casks. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: earthy tones, cakes (banana and pear), and pumpernickel. At this strength, water is quickly added… With water: a true avalanche of blood oranges and a small piece of panettone; small but bursting with orange blossom. Mouth (neat): orange marmalade with cinnamon and honey, plus a touch of molasses. Lovely oily texture, no doubt enhanced by the virgin oak. With water: orange and ginger cake with a hint of turmeric. Finish: long and rich, on marmalade, pepper, and ginger. Comments: lots of orange in this very well-made German malt, and since there’s pumpernickel too, and considering it’s perhaps no longer a great idea to drink proper orange juice for breakfast (according to the press), let’s replace it all with a small glass of this delightful Caogad Tri right tomorrow morning. Maybe not…
SGP:651 - 86 points.

Since we're in Goethe's country...

The Nine Springs (46%, OB, Germany, ex-bourbon, cask #1128)

We are in Worbis, not far from Göttingen, between Magdeburg and Kassel, you see? Colour: white wine. Nose: very young, very fruity, with pear, apple, pineapple, vanilla, barley syrup, and a fine, light woodiness. All is well. Mouth: incredibly fruity, almost like barley eau-de-vie. Apples, pears, and hints of violet and liquorice. Finish: medium length, with a fruity profile dominated by pear—but we love pear. Comments: fresh, young, fruity, serious, and without a single flaw.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

We’ll finish with Korea…

Craftbros 2023/2024 ‘IPA Newborn’ (58.3%, OB, South Korea, double matured, first fill oloroso hogshead and new American oak cask, 979 bottles)

Managing a double maturation in just a year is impressive! Craft brewers at the helm, based in Gimpo, northwest of Seoul. I’m not sure where the IPA comes into play here, but does it really matter? This is the third Korean distillery we’ve tried, though we still have a soft spot for the first Kimchangsoo. Colour: gold. Nose: explosively fruity, reminiscent of the first Sierra Nevada IPA I drank in the 1990s. Moving on… It smells intensely hoppy, loaded with pink grapefruit, violet liqueur, and lychees. I must admit, I quite like it, even if it’s miles away from traditional whisky profiles. With water: guava, grapefruit, mango, and honey cocktail vibes. Mouth (neat): somewhere between pure rye, buckwheat, rice whisky, and indeed a triple IPA. The fruitiness is ballistic—mango and grapefruit. With water: leaning more towards zesty flavours, a touch of gin, and even more unleashed grapefruit. Finish: long and extravagantly fruity throughout. Pear and rosewater. Comments: I don’t love it as a whisky, but I adore it as an eau-de-vie. What to do with that? Also, was the wash hopped? A purely indicative score, it’s not 3, so not whisky anyway.
SGP:930 - 85 points.

Check the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far