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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 26, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glenlochy
vs. Convalmore
A short session that doesn’t necessarily make much sense, except that it’s becoming increasingly difficult for us to organise full sessions featuring only whiskies from one of those distilleries closed in the 1980s that we haven’t yet tasted. Such is life… |
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Glenlochy 1979/2012 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Rare Old, refill sherry hogshead, Lot No R0/12/04, 460 bottles) 
Here we are not far from Ben Nevis, and you might say we could have taken the opportunity to taste some Ben Nevis instead, especially since Glenlochy also once belonged to Joseph Hobbs, but there we are, we’ve already planned quite a massive new Ben Nevis session very soon on WF. In any case, in 1983 the Glenlochy distillery was definitively closed, like so many others. Colour: gold. Nose: the malt from Glenlochy makes a big impression when you taste it for the first time, and I think it’s one of those profiles that you remember afterwards, such is the balance between the candied fruits—especially citrus—and the meadow honeys, which is just perfect. Granted, many malts show similar profiles, but rarely with this kind of utterly perfect balance, based on mandarins and citrons and wildflower honey containing a little hint of fir, which brings a very light mentholated and smoky touch. Mouth: same remarks, point for point, including the wee smoky and minty touches. The oak remains fairly discreet as well, and the whole remains very fresh. Marvellous and the 46% work perfectly. Finish: not very long but still on that perfect balance. Touches of Earl Grey in the aftertaste. Comments: a bit more power would have taken it even higher. G&M released another 1979 last year, but we haven’t tasted it.
SGP:541 - 90 points. |
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Convalmore 1978/1993 (63.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #83.4)
Here we are in Dufftown, where the Convalmore distillery was closed two years after Glenlochy. Let’s see whether these remarkable 63.5% alc/vol are still holding strong after more than thirty years in bottle, bearing in mind that twice the age in cask under glass has often struck us as the ideal combination, as it is here—roughly 15 plus 30 years. Colour: dark gold. Nose: not so easy to compare at this stage, as this baby has stayed rather massive—almost brutal on the nose—with clear notes of dark chocolate and damp earth. Let’s add water straightaway... With water: a real revelation, it opens like a chrysalis and reveals a fruitiness not too far removed from that of Glenlochy. Still lots of citrus, but a little less honey, and it leans a bit more towards a directly floral side. And it’s glorious. Mouth (neat): a very powerful sherry, in the amontillado style, with more chocolate and slightly bitter walnuts, some nocino and candied chestnuts. But it seems excellent... With water: indeed, it is, and now the citrus really steals the show, in the form of marmalade, preserved fruits or citrus liqueurs. There’s still a little trace of dark chocolate, which pairs splendidly with the citrus in any case. Finish: long, continuing on citrus and a splendid nectar-like quality. Comments: a bottle that supports our theory of bottle-ageing, so often verified with the top malts. Obviously, with The Claymore, it doesn’t work.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
Hang on, we’re going to make the most of an open bottle—one we’ve already tasted—to round things off. Just to check one or two things… |
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Convalmore 28 yo 1977/2005 (57.9%, OB, 3,900 bottles)
We’d written a tasting note for this baby right when it came out, back in 2005 (WF 89). So, let’s quickly see whether twenty years in bottle have done it any favours. Colour: gold. Nose: less cask impact, more waxiness, a bit like those not-very-waxy-yet-still-waxy vintages of Clynelish. There’s still citrus too, especially oranges. We’re almost veering closer to Glenlochy territory, fancy that. With water: I rather get the impression the years in bottle have mellowed and rounded it out a bit—for the better. Lovely notes of tiny herbs, borage and orange blossom, though all in moderation. Mouth (neat): hasn’t lost an ounce of power, still very lively, very natural and above all, full of pink grapefruit, chartreuse and verbena—all things I happen to like very much. With water: just a few drops do the trick, in fact it doesn’t change much on the palate and too much water will dry it out. I know, that’s rich. Finish: long, a little more herbal, bordering on austere. Some peach skin and apricot too. Comments: I rather think it’s gained a point over twenty years. Well then, let’s just say I’ve decided it’s gained a point in twenty years, for what it’s worth.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
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